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Rquacken
·
1. Nothing they are closed
2. They Have to send the watch to omega
3. They can’t touch used jewelry at the moment due to COVID
What do you think. Does it look fake
1. Nothing they are closed
2. They Have to send the watch to omega
3. They can’t touch used jewelry at the moment due to COVID
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TexOmega
·Best to get it opened and the movement inspected. The replica/Fakes are aesthetically pretty good.
The people here that can help you will need well focused, HIGH RESOLUTION pix in natural light, and many of them.
Or send to Omega....if they crush and destroy it, you'll know it was fake.
The people here that can help you will need well focused, HIGH RESOLUTION pix in natural light, and many of them.
Or send to Omega....if they crush and destroy it, you'll know it was fake.
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Rquacken
·Best to get it opened and the movement inspected. The replica/Fakes are aesthetically pretty good.
The people here that can help you will need well focused, HIGH RESOLUTION pix in natural light, and many of them.
Or send to Omega....if they crush and destroy it, you'll know it was fake.
Yes I know that’s technically what I should do. I have someone who can open it but he’s just a jeweler not an AD.
I mean I went nuts on this thing. I even pulled the bracelet off and checked the spring bars to see if they were the original omega ones. Which they are. Checked the lume for the green pip and minute hand HE valve. All the stuff they say to check.
I don’t know if I should wait for an AD to open or just bring it to the jewelry repair guy I know.
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ChiefMark
·All you need to do is get the case opened, and take high resolution photos of the movement with the rotor in two positions 180 degrees apart. Then someone can be sure.
The super fakes can be identified from the dial with good macro photography, but it’s getting harder.
edit: from the photos above, it looks good. I just don’t trust my eyes anymore on dial shots and need to see the movement.
The super fakes can be identified from the dial with good macro photography, but it’s getting harder.
edit: from the photos above, it looks good. I just don’t trust my eyes anymore on dial shots and need to see the movement.
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Foo2rama
··Nowhere near as grumpy as he used to be...What makes you think it is fake?
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Rquacken
·What makes you think it is fake?
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Rquacken
·
Mainly he said the bezel is supposed to be completely flat... if you run your finger across it and when you run your finger across the bezel it does feel flat. However when he ran his nail across it you can feel the bumps in the numbers/ dots. It’s very slight you pretty much need to use your nail but you can feel it’s either a very slightly raised or very slightly recessed. He said it should be completely flat like can’t feel a thing
Then I watched a you tube video on how collectors can barely tell fakes apart from the real thing without opening it anymore. And I freaked myself out basically
Then I watched a you tube video on how collectors can barely tell fakes apart from the real thing without opening it anymore. And I freaked myself out basically
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Meme-Dweller
·Mainly he said the bezel is supposed to be completely flat... if you run your finger across it and when you run your finger across the bezel it does feel flat. However when he ran his nail across it you can feel the bumps in the numbers/ dots. It’s very slight you pretty much need to use your nail but you can feel it’s either a very slightly raised or very slightly recessed. He said it should be completely flat like can’t feel a thing
Then I watched a you tube video on how collectors can barely tell fakes apart from the real thing without opening it anymore. And I freaked myself out basically
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ChiefMark
·I haven’t owned that reference. Tell me this:
when you unscrew the crown, is it buttery smooth through the process? Does it pop a tiny bit when free, silently, and then wind effortlessly and even more buttery smooth? Does the hack work? Everything you do in setting the watch should be smooth and precise. If you feel grit, uneven resistance, a feeling like there’s sand in the works... you have a crappy Chinese movement in there.
when you unscrew the crown, is it buttery smooth through the process? Does it pop a tiny bit when free, silently, and then wind effortlessly and even more buttery smooth? Does the hack work? Everything you do in setting the watch should be smooth and precise. If you feel grit, uneven resistance, a feeling like there’s sand in the works... you have a crappy Chinese movement in there.
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Rquacken
·I haven’t owned that reference. Tell me this:
when you unscrew the crown, is it buttery smooth through the process? Does it pop a tiny bit when free, silently, and then wind effortlessly and even more buttery smooth? Does the hack work? Everything you do in setting the watch should be smooth and precise. If you feel grit, uneven resistance, a feeling like there’s sand in the works... you have a crappy Chinese movement in there.
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Rquacken
·It’s definitely the smoothest with all my watches. The hack does work. You can barely feel it winding if at all. The only Time I would say there’s any resistance is when you’re setting the date it’s smooth and then you can kind of feel and hear a click when it turns over.
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Evitzee
·Nothing jumps out as FAKE!, the bracelet clasp looks legit. Does the SN on the card match the watch?
Since you already paid for the watch your options, if it somehow turns out to be fake, are somewhat limited. I would say you own it whatever it turns out to be.
Since you already paid for the watch your options, if it somehow turns out to be fake, are somewhat limited. I would say you own it whatever it turns out to be.
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Rquacken
·So that’s one of the other things that I got iffy about. The warranty card has a reference number. But where the serial number is it’s blank
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Rquacken
·Nothing jumps out as FAKE!, the bracelet clasp looks legit. Does the SN on the card match the watch?
Since you already paid for the watch your options, if it somehow turns out to be fake, are somewhat limited. I would say you own it whatever it turns out to be
Let me rephrase that the serial number is not on the card anywhere. There’s no place for a serial number. There’s a reference number and then it just says Sterling jewelers
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ChiefMark
·So that’s one of the other things that I got iffy about. The warranty card has a reference number. But where the serial number is it’s blank
Worst case it’s a super fake. Some of those come with fake cards.
Your description of the movement feel is a plus.
Any decent jeweler/watchmaker can open the case so you can take photos of the movement.
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Donn Chambers
·Mainly he said the bezel is supposed to be completely flat... if you run your finger across it and when you run your finger across the bezel it does feel flat. However when he ran his nail across it you can feel the bumps in the numbers/ dots. It’s very slight you pretty much need to use your nail but you can feel it’s either a very slightly raised or very slightly recessed. He said it should be completely flat like can’t feel a thing
Then I watched a you tube video on how collectors can barely tell fakes apart from the real thing without opening it anymore. And I freaked myself out basically
Your friend doesn’t know what he’s talking about. I own the same watch (purchased new from an AD, so I know it’s real) and you CAN feel the slight indentations of the numbers and dots. Your watch looks perfectly fine to me, and from your description of how it feels to wind it and unscrew the crown, I’d say it’s real.
I’ve handled many fakes, and even the “super-clones” have crappy movements and don’t wind very well. It’s still the best tell.
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Donn Chambers
·Let me rephrase that the serial number is not on the card anywhere. There’s no place for a serial number. There’s a reference number and then it just says Sterling jewelers
lots of grey market dealers don’t fill out the serial number and date areas, so that isn’t an obvious sign of anything. Post a picture of the card, and we can help identify if it is real or not.
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SkunkPrince
·If I had a dollar for every BS story I heard from "a friend"... 😁
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