Was it the right decision? 166.010 1970

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Hey all,
I'm new into watch collecting and was fascinated by vintages omegas. I managed to find one from Chrono24, for 125$(!!!) - It is a 166.010 562 Caliber, Gold & silver plated - assumed to be from 1970. The dial is a bit dirty, looks like some sort of liquid, but still looks good IMO. Generic crown.
Would appreciate your opinion on whether this looks like a redial or unauthentic case, etc. Strap is not authentic, bought from Etsy.

Also, one of the screws which hold the small metal in place which holds the dial inside the metal case doesn't screw in, and is loose, attaching picture of the screw & metal(not aware of the part names, numbers) - do you guys know where can I buy this part from?


Thanks!
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It can be tempting to buy a $125 watch over a watch that might cost more (money or patience)
 
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Correct. At first, price was agreed to be 350, managed to reduce to this for unoriginal crown/crystal/...
 
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That would be a hard pass for me. The dial is shot, these didn’t come in a two tone case so I’d be inclined to think that’s an aftermarket bezel someone has had made as the gap to the case edge is too large, the mid case is severely polished and the crown is wrong.
 
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I don't see an upside with this one.

Incorrect bezel, damaged dial, damaged movement, nothing nice about the watch.

Save up for a nicer one.
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I don't see an upside with this one.

Incorrect bezel, damaged dial, damaged movement, nothing nice about the watch.

Save up for a nicer one.

Why is the movement damaged?
 
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B Basha
Also, one of the screws which hold the small metal in place which holds the dial inside the metal case doesn't screw in, and is loose

This would suggest that the threads are stripped/damaged.
 
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This would suggest that the threads are stripped/damaged.
Yes, but I don't see that as a major damage. The watch runs and keeps good time.
 
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The part is called a case clamp. There are different part numbers depending on the case.

Stripped screws can be indicative of more damage/wear. These are fairly common movements. Most of the time it is easier to get a new plate, than to bush and re tap the hole.

I like to self service my watches, So this is the sort of thing I sometimes look for. Mostly this is a 'parts' watch. May be made from parts. Some call these franken watches. Others like myself call them rat watches, as it can be quite fun and entertaining to source the parts and restore something not normally worth restoring.

The price is fair for such a watch, It will, however, not considered collectable.

At the end of the day if it makes you happy, that is all that really maters.
 
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Damage, nasty wear to the rotor from contact with the case back caused either by a worn rotor bushing OR from the movement flopping around because of a loose/missing case clamp, maybe both.

 
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Thank you guys for all the information.
Damage, nasty wear to the rotor from contact with the case back caused either by a worn rotor bushing OR from the movement flopping around because of a loose/missing case clamp, maybe both.

Do you maybe know the part number of the screw/where can I get a new one/where can I get the part where the screw is screwed to 😀?
 
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The part is called a case clamp. There are different part numbers depending on the case.

Stripped screws can be indicative of more damage/wear. These are fairly common movements. Most of the time it is easier to get a new plate, than to bush and re tap the hole.

I like to self service my watches, So this is the sort of thing I sometimes look for. Mostly this is a 'parts' watch. May be made from parts. Some call these franken watches. Others like myself call them rat watches, as it can be quite fun and entertaining to source the parts and restore something not normally worth restoring.

The price is fair for such a watch, It will, however, not considered collectable.

At the end of the day if it makes you happy, that is all that really maters.

Thank you so much for the info. This is one of my main goals, to learn and start servicing my own watches. Can you explain more why do you think this is a "parts watch"? What are the major differences between it and different Omega interesting vintage calibers? If this was your watch, what are the things you would do to get it into a much better shape 😀?

I really like the look of this watch, and the fact that it keeps time, and most importantly, that it can be a piece for which I can start servicing/learning on.
 
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B Basha
Thank you so much for the info. This is one of my main goals, to learn and start servicing my own watches. Can you explain more why do you think this is a "parts watch"? What are the major differences between it and different Omega interesting vintage calibers? If this was your watch, what are the things you would do to get it into a much better shape 😀?

I really like the look of this watch, and the fact that it keeps time, and most importantly, that it can be a piece for which I can start servicing/learning on.

Welcome Basha. There is no substitute for your own research to learn about Omega vintage watches and different calibers. If you wish to start with Constellation then this where to go:
https://omega-constellation-collectors.blogspot.com/

for a general approach to vintage omega:
https://omegaforums.net/threads/learn-how-to-fish.52603/

and to see vetted ebay listings of decent examples (very instructive):
https://omegaforums.net/threads/recommended-vintage-omega-watches-only-on-ebay-not-for-inquiries

Simply posting various poor ebay examples for comment is the slow boat to learning. Stick around and hope you enjoy the ride.
 
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B Basha
... Can you explain more why do you think this is a "parts watch"? What are the major differences between it and different Omega interesting vintage calibers? If this was your watch, what are the things you would do to get it into a much better shape 😀?

This watch is well used and tired. If one looks at the finish, the shape of the screws. The color of the bridges. Wear marks such as shown above. It will always be a pig in lipstick. Others in this thread pointed to the right direction.

Have you spent much time in the watchmaking section of these forums? @Archer has a lot of really good tutorials.

I recommend learning on less expensive watches. One does not start working on fancy performance cars. Assortments of fine Swiss watches of off brands made by AS, Felsa Eta etc often seem like a good deal and a place to start. Now I am not so sure that is the best advice.

Better is to get something new in great condition like one of the https://shop.diywatch.club/ kits. If you think those are too expensive then this is the wrong hobby. If one does not work with good stuff, then it is hard to know how to judge a watch.

I have many watches in similar condition. If you look at the threads I have started you can see what I do to make the watches enjoyable to myself. I tend to go more for quantity than quality, so am probably not the best person to ask how to get a watch into better shape. My interest is solving the puzzle, and making them tick again.

Most people who buy things cheap want to spend the minimal effort to prepare the item to be flipped for sale to the next person looking for a bargain. Such is the way of this world.

You have a lot of advice. Create an avatar. Spend some time reading the threads. This is really a photography forum. (many of us also collect cameras) Take time to see what looks good and attracts attention. There is no shortcut. I have been at this off and on for 30 years. My interests come and go. Went decades without getting another watch.

It also helps to have others nearby who can assist with in person training. Travel to the classes is also recommended. Join the collector clubs. Someone needs to show you how to sit. How to hold the tools so you do not strain working with them hours on end. These things can not be learned from Online Videos, which are created to keep one clicking and watching. They do help inspire, but the boring basic stuff is speed up so they can list all their patron supporters.
 
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B Basha
where can I get the part where the screw is screwed to

That part is the main plate, the chassis of the movement where all of the other components attach to.
 
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I’d really caution against throwing good money (and time) after bad with this watch. It’s a dog.
 
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If I were the OP, I would buy it, throwing in lots of time and effort, buying parts and etc....then I learn a big lesson in how to save an old, damaged vintage Omega.
 
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Nah, I would not recommend that. I am doing exactly that as I type. Does get addictive. Gets even worse when one deals with Valjoux chronographs, because the parts fit rolex.

The real problem will be when Radium dials (dyles) can no longer be sold on eBay. I just checked the one I got this week. (sorry you get to see it again.)

I think this one is going to be a keeper.