Forums Latest Members

Vintage Rolex Submariner 5508 Guidance

  1. WatchWarlock Mar 20, 2017

    Posts
    307
    Likes
    227
    Hi Everyone,
    Been collecting vintage/modern Omegas and own several modern Rolexes for awhile now. Came across a Sub 5508 small-crown that is still relatively "affordable" and wanted your expert thoughts. Been consulting my copies of the Rolex Report, Vintage Rolex Sports Models and various online resources as a guide but I am still very in the dark. Any experienced collectors willing to give their 2 cents? From the attached photos, potential issues that I am seeing are: relumed dial, repainted 100m=330ft, and possible aftermarket bezel. And oh, the seconds hand is missing. However, the butterfly cal 1530 and caseback/case numbers all appear correct. Thoughts on whether this is a worthy restoration piece?

    Thanks in advance!

    R0019482.jpg R0019491.jpg R0019520.jpg R0019521.jpg
     
  2. jimmyd13 Mar 20, 2017

    Posts
    3,156
    Likes
    7,168
    I'm a sucker for a great watch that's in need of help ...

    ... yeah, the bezel's wrong (that's a 5513 fat font, isn't it?) ... it's worth £800+ but nowhere close to the cost of an original replacement, always assuming you can source one. The seconds hand shouldn't be hard to find. Trying to decide from that one photo if the glass has straight sides or not but, even if that's a service replacement, that's not a deal killer at all. Lugs and case look right - "cleaned" but not over-polished. The white depth rating is a glaring issue. The relume ... well, it is what it is.

    So, putting the heart aside ... it's never going to be a great gilt dial again. The servicing can still be done and relatively cheaply. Parts are still available for the 1530. It just comes down to pricing the piece. Is it going to be a £20,000 watch when all the work is done? No. It's probably not even going to be a £10,000 watch. But it can be a reliable runner for £500 worth of servicing. That white font would always be a problem to me ... it's so obvious every time I'd look at the watch. The dial would have to be redone by someone very capable ... and I don't know who that person would be.

    So, it comes to this question: does it speak to you? I've been known to buy basket cases before and spend months or years getting them back to glory. It's all down to whether the watch talks. To me, this one doesn't but it's an intensely personal point.
     
    Nobel Prize, WatchWarlock and keywerd like this.
  3. calalum Mar 20, 2017

    Posts
    1,472
    Likes
    7,719
    Not sure about that one. What is the asking price?
     
  4. Sculler22 Mar 20, 2017

    Posts
    274
    Likes
    179
    Bargains are rarely that, so unless this particular specimen really is your ideal basis for a restoration, I would pass. The seemingly small detail deficiencies that you know about now will only become more irritating once you see one that is right in all aspects.
     
    oddboy likes this.
  5. watchlovr Mar 20, 2017

    Posts
    1,751
    Likes
    2,460
    No scratches from strap/bracelet changing in 50 years?
    No "wing" marks on the back of the lugs from a bracelet being fitted?
    No service marks inside the case back?
    Looks brand new to me.
    Pass.
     
  6. WatchWarlock Mar 20, 2017

    Posts
    307
    Likes
    227
    Ah I know. That is what I'm struggling with. It is just nearly impossible to jump into the vintage Rolex market with the exorbitant entry price points. Figured a project piece in need of TLC is the only way for me to break in. And since prices aren't dropping anytime soon, I'm afraid to be priced out by the time I save enough for a "proper" one.

    @jimmyd13 I'm not particularly enamored with this particular example. Just for the reasons stated above, it could serve as an entry piece as I work my way up.

    I got a picture of the serial and it matches with caseback. No original bracelet on this one, so I'm assuming the case was polished and never mounted, hence the lack of marks.
     
  7. watchknut New watch + Instagram + wife = dumbass Mar 20, 2017

    Posts
    4,025
    Likes
    13,790
    That is one fat case...
     
  8. WatchWarlock Mar 20, 2017

    Posts
    307
    Likes
    227
    Oof. Good or bad? I'm assuming you're not referring to fat as in unpolished, but fat as in incorrect case?
     
  9. watchknut New watch + Instagram + wife = dumbass Mar 20, 2017

    Posts
    4,025
    Likes
    13,790
    When I see a 60 year old watch with a super fat case that looks new...I am a bit skeptical.

    Then again, these are out of my wheelhouse.
     
  10. Linesiders Stripers, not snook. Mar 20, 2017

    Posts
    528
    Likes
    2,278
    OK - I did not take a super look at it but the only thing real is probably the movement. HIGHLY sugges better photos of the dial and ref and serial engravings - I am 80-90% sure it is fake.
     
  11. WatchWarlock Mar 20, 2017

    Posts
    307
    Likes
    227
    Here's a photo of the 64XXX serial which seems to match the 1961 caseback?

    R0019484.jpg
     
  12. jimmyd13 Mar 21, 2017

    Posts
    3,156
    Likes
    7,168
    I had thought on first examination that the case was well looked after and had been "cleaned" as I called it with a jeweller's rouge and similar. Looking again after the above comments, this case could well be new(er) which means the whole thing has to be looked at in a different light .... Right movement, fine ... but with Faults with every other part, this is suddenly looking like an assemblage.
     
  13. TTG Suffers from watch FOMO. Mar 21, 2017

    Posts
    886
    Likes
    1,008
    You think the caseback is good ?
    I don't, that's where I stop..
     
  14. WatchWarlock Mar 21, 2017

    Posts
    307
    Likes
    227
    Thanks everyone for the input! I'm still a vintage Rolex novice so this has been very very helpful. Given how my initial reservations were only expounded further, I just contacted the seller and passed. Knowing what I know now, even at a great price, I would not feel comfortable passing it along down the road.
     
  15. watchlovr Mar 21, 2017

    Posts
    1,751
    Likes
    2,460
    Vintage Rolex is more of a minefield than any other brand due to the high prices.
    If you do not know what you are doing you will most probably get burned, very few "bargains" out there.
    I advise you to buy from a known seller of vintage Rolex, yes you will pay more, but you get a return policy and warranty.
    Just my advise, up to you.
     
    WatchWarlock likes this.
  16. WatchWarlock Mar 21, 2017

    Posts
    307
    Likes
    227
    Agreed. Think I'll head towards the HQ Milton or reputable forum sellers when the time comes!
     
    sxl2004 likes this.
  17. chows99 Mar 21, 2017

    Posts
    563
    Likes
    1,341
    Its all about the pricing. If this can be available at a significantly lower price, you will have the dough to slowly seek out the missing/wrong parts and build it up with your own personal history.
     
  18. WatchWarlock Mar 21, 2017

    Posts
    307
    Likes
    227
    If this were a $500 vintage Omega, potentially worth $2000 with some TLC, I would likely go that route. However, even at a low pricepoint, the 5508's potential flaws and cost of restoration already has me nervous. There is a difference between restoring an original piece to spec, and building a franken to be passable. Think this walks a fine line.
     
  19. watchlovr Mar 22, 2017

    Posts
    1,751
    Likes
    2,460
    The only potentially correct thing about the OP's watch is the movement.
    It would take a long time and serious ca$h to find the missing parts for it.
     
    Linesiders likes this.
  20. Linesiders Stripers, not snook. Mar 22, 2017

    Posts
    528
    Likes
    2,278
    Frankly there are a couple things I like about it and 5 times as many I do not like. Quality photos make all the difference in determining good from not good.