Vintage Omega De Ville

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Hello,


I am new to Omega vintage watches. I had a Timex mechanical watch in the 1970s when I was a kid, but I am just now getting interested in watches (after owning Seiko quartz watches for the past 30 years).


I was thinking about purchasing this Omega De Ville for around $ 500.00 dollars, and I was wondering if anyone can tell me if this looks like it might be a good watch to purchase. I sent the ebay seller a message about the caliber (I heard that the 500 series could be serviced more easily than the 1000 series, but I don’t know if that is true).


Thanks for any advice you can give me. View attachment 1676617 View attachment 1676618 View attachment 1676619 View attachment 1676620
 
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It’s not one I’d be interested in. This is a very late 60’s or 70’s model. Very basic and no frills case and dial although the movement of its a 56x will be good.

I’d personally look at the 166.020 Devilles or a 60’s 166.002.
 
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Thank you for your helpful advice. I am reading “learn how to fish” right now. The thing about this watch in particular that attracted me to it was the dial: It looks clean and the lettering is defined.


However, since I started looking at vintage watches, the gold Omegas (Genève and Seamaster) are the ones that I like the most. I was trying to stay away from the 1000 caliber series, but, perhaps I am thinking too much about this issue.


If I could ask you one more question: These gold Omegas 166.0202 look really good to me. They are 1012 caliber watches. The dial only says Omega Automatic on one (and Seamaster on the other). But, the se are both around $600 dollars and they are in my price range. I was wondering if either of these would be watches that I should avoid? Thanks.
 
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So, do I have this right.....You want a $600 watch and really don't care how esthetically pleasing it is?

As above......what attracts you to these two other than price point?
 
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Are you sure they are gold? I think I am seeing some brassing on the lugs of the Seamaster, and some greenish staining on the other one.
 
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So, do I have this right.....You want a $600 watch and really don't care how esthetically pleasing it is?

As above......what attracts you to these two other than price point?
I can’t afford to spend a great deal, but it would be nice to get the best watch (and the best looking watch) that I can afford.
 
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Are you sure they are gold? I think I am seeing some brassing on the lugs of the Seamaster, and some greenish staining on the other one.
Thanks for letting me know. Is this a common problem? Is there brass showing through because the gold plating is wearing off?
 
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Thanks for letting me know. Is this a common problem? Is there brass showing through because the gold plating is wearing off?
Yes, I think that's what I am seeing, the base metal showing through, although better photos would be helpful. It's fairly common and very undesirable. The gold-plated cases were used on entry-level watches, and really not made to last, IMO. Of course, if you find one in good condition, they are still nice to wear occasionally, and less expensive than gold-capped or solid gold.
 
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I can’t afford to spend a great deal, but it would be nice to get the best watch (and the best looking watch) that I can afford.


Study till you know the reference and caliber and metal you desire......then be extremely focused ONLY on those parameters.

The watches you show here are $100 watches.(the first watch you show may be a $200 watch(SS)

This is not criticism but guidance, we all started where you are now.

Two choices, use your time and resources finding value, or pay someone else to use their time and resources to gather and show you at a much higher(retail) price.

Many threads and pictures here at this Forum if you choose to educate yourself and journey forth with the knowledge to uncover a value.


Welcome to the Forum
 
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Thank you for pointing this out. I do plan to wear my watch every day with a sport coat at work.

I think that I will stay away from the gold plated watches. It seems that many of the less expensive ones have similar problems with pealing. I do like the silver colored stainless steel Genève model as well. Perhaps these will look a little better in my price range.

When buying a vintage watch, would you pay very much attention to + 12 seconds per day versus +50 sec per day?
 
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Study till you know the reference and caliber and metal you desire......then be extremely focused ONLY on those parameters.

The watches you show here are $100 watches.(the first watch you show may be a $200 watch(SS)

This is not criticism but guidance, we all started where you are now.

Two choices, use your time and resources finding value, or pay someone else to use their time and resources to gather and show you at a much higher(retail) price.

Many threads and pictures here at this Forum if you choose to educate yourself and journey forth with the knowledge to uncover a value.


Welcome to the Forum
Thank you. I am certainly in the process of learning.


I was in a jeweler’s shop a couple of weeks ago and the owner had a Baume and Mercier for sale for $900.00 dollars and an Omega Genève for $700.00. The Omega was a 1960s gold colored watch and the glass had a large, noticeable scratch. I figured that I could do better on ebay, but I am realizing now that I could make even worse mistakes shopping online.


Is a large scratch a deal-breaker, or do people replace the glass frequently? Is it cost effective to do this if the watch is not very expensive in the first place?
 
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Replacing a crystal is typically part of a complete service, which should be done if as you indicate this will be a daily wearer. BTW a serviced watch in good condition should keep time within a few seconds/day.
 
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Is a large scratch a deal-breaker, or do people replace the glass frequently? Is it cost effective to do this if the watch is not very expensive in the first place?

I think that my repairers charge about £11 to fit a generic replacement crystal on a vintage Omega.

You can also polish out everyday scratches and marks with a substance such as Polywatch.