Vintage Omega Automatic 342

[Joe67]

Hello, I'm new to this forum. I found your forum through searching on-line for vintage Omega watch parts. I wasn't finding what I was looking for, the more I looked the more confused it became. Then I came across Omega Forums. Introduce myself, I'm a retired auto mechanic 45 years spending my last eight years of service with a Maserati Dealer working bumper to bumper with repairs. I'm a big YouTube watcher that recently found a channel on watch repair presented by Watch Revival. An excellent show, I might add.

Watch Revival has inspired me once more to try and repair my Omega Automatic that belonged to my father who passed away when I was very young. The watch was given to me by my Mother when I was 16. Being the young stupid inquisitive kid that I was I took it apart some and tried cleaning the dial. Some things you just can not take back, this was one!

Back in 2008 I gave the watch to an independent watch repairer hoping he could make it right again. Well after a year or so, I forget as to why, but he gave it back to me in a sealed package still unrepaired. Just recently I took it out of the package to see what I had and found out there were missing parts. Pretty sure they weren't missing when I gave it to him but that's another story.

What can I tell you? The watch is an Omega automatic. Numbers found on movement 342. Made in the 50's.

How can you help? I would like to know if anyone thinks it would be possible to find a dial with the original looks, (tarnished is ok) and other missing parts. If so I would like to attempt to repair this watch myself. I have never worked on something so small as this watch but believe I could do it, based off what I see on Watch Revival.

In the photo I laid it out so it could easily be seen as to what is there and what isn't. Thanks for your time!

 

[Spruce]

I have no idea but I’m sure someone will be able to advise. Fingers crossed

 

[X350 XJR]

Pretty much anything is possible with patience. That being said I think your best bet would be to source a complete movement or complete watch. Finding a dial will be your most difficult task, there just aren't many floating around and you're going to be fighting everyone else searching for one. The missing parts coupled with the very poor condition of your movement makes finding a complete donor watch likely the best course forward.

 

[sheepdoll]

I had a 351 similar to this for some 25 to 30 years in a drawer. I got the parts when I first studied watchmaking. Then lost interest for a good 18 years or so.

The You Tube vids are inspiring in a way. They are mostly though for generating clicks and entertainment. Without hands on training there is a lot missing. Like how to sit, hold parts and such. These are set for showing things on camera. There is also most likely a production team working alongside. People like the guy who calls himself Marshal, works on hundreds of watches. Only posting the interesting stuff.

None of this is a one off fix to save money.

One needs about a thousand $$$ in tools. The basic Amazon service kits are going to lead to failures and disapointment. It takes hours of practice learning what good tweezers are and how to hold them. Picking up stray hairs off glass.

Looks like the set lever and yoke spring is still attached. Which is good. Yoke springs can fly away into alternate dimensions. The vids never show the time looking for parts the tweezers shot across the room. Or the part that broke and took months/years to find online.

Handling screwdrivers much the same. In the Swiss factories they can pick a screw up with the blade and it fits perfect. Both tools are dressed. Without learning this one risks bunging up the parts.

Screws that look the same may not be. The lengths can be critical. Sometimes a prior repair changed something. Forcing a larger screw in where a smaller one failed.

And I have not even started on the high tech post WWII oils the alloys are designed to use.

The bearing surfaces called jewels and pivots may also need attention. Minor amounts of friction can affect performance.


This is not to discourage. I would much rather there was more interest in this sort of thing. Manufactures need to make the parts available again. The only way for service to survive is to make it more affordable. Encourage local independent shops. Not part of a walled garden using 18th and 19th style 'factory' techniques. Controlling this through cheap labor should be a thing of the past.

Curiously I did save some dials "and dyals" from the 1990s and am also looking to source parts. Should have done this 15 or 16 years back. Finding the parts can be a challenge. And waiting for the post office even more so.

One also has to be willing to take the risk, with sketchy sellers in sketchy countries. Parts watches in turn become a project unto themselves.

Dial repainting was a service in the 1990s and standard practice. So I spend months if not years taking jewelry classes. I worked with computer printing, So thought it would be much easier than not.

My suggestion is to find someone (or a school) nearby to help you. Practice first on cheap movements with good parts availability. The parts you have are not going anywhere.

I suspect some similar collections I have acquired as job lots from watchmaker estates, are where well meaning folk gave a bunch of parts to the watchmaker to re-assemble. I have not ever seen a watch shop/estate that does not look like the watchmaker was a borderline organized compulsive hoarder.

 

[Dan S]

Welcome to the forum, and many thanks for making the effort to introduce yourself and provide context. The 2576 is a great reference, it's unfortunate what has happened to the watch.

I agree on looking for parts movements and/or watches, using cal 342 and ref 2576 as search terms. Sometimes you will find a movement with dial and hands.

Edited: Apr 7, 2024

 

[sheepdoll]

I took another look at your parts

This is pretty much a showstopper hiligted in red. This part is called a 'Balance spring'


It is mangled.

So as other stated you pretty much need a whole new watch. This part is the hardest to repair. And the most expensive. Takes years of practice in sweat shop conditions to untangle these.

Most of the other parts seem to be there. Do not see the stem and crown. That is the easiest to source.

I spend hours on eBay looking for projects like this. It gets addictive after a while.

Liability makes it impossible to take on such work for others.

 

[Dan S]

sheepdoll

I took another look at your parts

This is pretty much a showstopper hiligted in red. This part is called a 'Balance spring'


It is mangled.

So as other stated you pretty much need a whole new watch. This part is the hardest to repair. And the most expensive. Takes years of practice in sweat shop conditions to untangle these.

I am seeing some cal 342 balance complete available on the internet. But overall, I think a working parts movement would be a good purchase.

 

[Joe67]

sheepdoll

I took another look at your parts
This is pretty much a showstopper, hi lighted in red. This part is called a 'Balance spring', It is mangled.

So as other stated you pretty much need a whole new watch. This part is the hardest to repair. And the most expensive. Takes years of practice in sweat shop conditions to untangle these.

Thanks all for your comments, sheepdoll thoughts on the balance spring surprises me, would have never thought it possible to fix that spring. I'm going to see if I can straighten it, just for the fun of it. I know this watch is in real bad shape but I have hope that it can be revived. With the help of some of the members here, thanks again!

 

[sheepdoll]

Do not bother attempting to fix the hairspring. Takes years of practice, and that on old 19th century PW springs.

The modern alloys are not designed for this work.

These were made with statistical robots what could use lasers and such to measure the masses of the materials. (And that in the 1960s.) Not that I do not fantasize about such things.

 

[sheepdoll]

Dan S

I am seeing some cal 342 balance complete available on the internet. But overall, I think a working parts movement would be a good purchase.

I think 330 is the base caliber here. Surprisingly this is one of the parts that seems to have been sent in quantity to the material houses. I have also had luck with movements where the escape wheel is mangled and the balance good. I think this come from fitting the wheel bridge. It is really easy to snap the escape pivot.

In the recent binge of Landeron Chronograph spares, half the escape wheels and perhaps a quarter or third of the third wheels had broken pivots. Surprisingly most 4th wheels still had their long pivots.

Balance staffs are quite plentiful. Incabloc settings do a good job of protecting the pivots. If you have the escapement balance and hairspring, you pretty much have the watch.

Parts movements just fuel the addiction.

 

[SOG53]

I think this was your watch. Putting these parts together to make a functioning watch would be like sewing body parts together after an autopsy and bringing it back to life. Like Frankenstein.
Case looks ok so you can look for this movement in a crummy case and do a complete movement/dial transplant.

The movement is 342- you can see it stamped on one of the bridges

 

[Joe67]

sheepdoll

Do not bother attempting to fix the hairspring. Takes years of practice, and that on old 19th century PW springs.

The modern alloys are not designed for this work.

These were made with statistical robots what could use lasers and such to measure the masses of the materials. (And that in the 1960s.) Not that I do not fantasize about such things.

After seeing your comment I got my magnifier glass and played around with the spring, Got it untangled but with the tools I have , no way. I did see a video where a fellow was using a 90 180 bending technic. He did some amazing work! I think I could do that if I had his tools.

 

[Joe67]

SOG53

I think this was your watch. Putting these parts together to make a functioning watch would be like sewing body parts together after an autopsy and bringing it back to life. Like Frankenstein.
Case looks ok so you can look for this movement in a crummy case and do a complete movement/dial transplant.

The movement is 342- you can see it stamped on one of the bridges

Yes that looks like the watch I remember. I really is a beautiful watch, rich looking but unassuming. That video motivates me even more now. Thanks

 

[speedb]

sheepdoll

Practice first on cheap movements with good parts availability. The parts you have are not going anywhere.

Just like how you'd learn to wrench on a junk car. Eventually you'll be able to get your omega back together (that balance spring really is toast though) and know what parts are missing or damaged to the point where a watchmaker might service it and replace the right parts, form there you can mail it to a specialist to have the dial repainted.

I think it's worth highlighting despite the grubby condition of the parts (oily hands will darken copper like that) the watch itself didn't have too much mileage (relatively) when you took it apart.

I think this is the best way to pick up some experience and play a part in getting your fathers watch back into working order. Sure, another watch from that era will probably be a few hundred less than what it's going to cost you but I feel that the sentiment of having a watch that is mostly original is more important to you.

 

[Archer]

sheepdoll

Do not bother attempting to fix the hairspring. Takes years of practice, and that on old 19th century PW springs.

The modern alloys are not designed for this work.

I guess I should stop fixing these balance springs then, if you say they are not designed for it...

 

[sheepdoll]

I find that the ones I tried to practice with tend to break apart when I bend them. Especially at the pinning point and the collete.

I think however the key words are "Years of practice."

 

[DON]

Movement is in poor condition and best you just replace it. You have the majority of the parts

Mainspring barrel is missing the mainspring and arbor

Clutch lever and spring missing

Rotor ratchet click spring missing. Have the arm and appears the screw

Rotor arm missing a screw. See two

Balance bridge arm out of position. Quick fix

Balance. Replace ($$$) or find a broken balance with a good hairspring and swap out

Cheapest is a complete watch movement. Doesn't need to be mint as long as it's in working condition and fair condition.

Dial - Just refinish it and have hands re-lumed

 

[Joe67]

There is a watch on eBay 1952 Vintage Omega Automatic Bumper Gold Filled Watch Cal 344. Would the movement be a good donor for the 342? Forgive the newb question. Also there is a Vintage 1950 Omega Ref 2576 11 Automatic Bumper Cal 342 Men's Stainless Watch but the movements are somewhat rusted. It states it's running but the price is 1K. I wouldn't pay 1K for a rusted watch but if it could be cleaned up I would put a bid on it, any advice?

Edited: Apr 9, 2024

 

[DON]

Joe67

There is a watch on eBay 1952 Vintage Omega Automatic Bumper Gold Filled Watch Cal 344. Would the movement be a good donor for the 342? Forgive the newb question. Also there is a Vintage 1950 Omega Ref 2576 11 Automatic Bumper Cal 342 Men's Stainless Watch but the movements are somewhat rusted. It states it's running but the price is 1K. I wouldn't pay 1K for a rusted watch but if it could be cleaned up I would put a bid on it, any advice?

look for a movement only. Caliber 342 to match the original. It doesn’t need to be mint condition. Fair is fine.

don’t buy a complete watch. Especially a rusted movement one for $1000. Just check EBay each day. Fair about $150. Bear mind there is also the service cost of cleaning the movement etc.

 

[Joe67]

DON

look for a movement only. Caliber 342 to match the original. It doesn’t need to be mint condition. Fair is fine.

don’t buy a complete watch. Especially a rusted movement one for $1000. Just check EBay each day. Fair about $150. Bear mind there is also the service cost of cleaning the movement etc.

Thanks, 342 only. I intend to do this repair myself, just now scratching the surface. I've watched hours of videos mostly from the YouTube channel Wristwatch Revival. I'm pretty steady with my hands and it reminds me of my old days rebuilding carburetors. Maybe my new hobby