Vintage Flightmaster - Originality & Value

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Hello everyone,

I'm new to Omega Forums and I'm hoping to tap into the expertise here.

I have an Omega Flightmaster that I've owned for many years after receiving it from my dad, and I'm now considering selling it. Before I do, I'd like to better understand exactly what I have and get some opinions on its originality and current market value.

This watch was worn and enjoyed by both my dad and me over many years, so it's certainly well used and has the honest wear that comes with decades of regular use. It has never been a safe queen, and that's part of its story.

From what I've been able to determine, I believe it is an early Flightmaster, but I haven't had the case opened to confirm the reference number or movement.

What I know:
  • Runs well and keeps good time.
  • The chronograph appears to function properly.
  • The original bracelet appears to be marked 1162/172.
  • No box, papers, service history, or other documentation.
  • To the best of my knowledge, the watch has never been restored or refinished.

I'd really appreciate any opinions on:
  • The likely reference and approximate production year.
  • Whether the watch appears to be original from the photos.
  • A realistic current market value in its present condition.

I've attached several photographs of the watch, bracelet, and clasp. If there are additional photos that would be helpful (caseback, clasp markings, movement, etc.), I'd be happy to post them.

Thank you in advance for taking the time to look it over. I really appreciate any guidance.

Alex

 
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Usually forum members would expect you to have done a bit of your own research but as I have the flightmaster bible here in front of me I’ll see if we can skip that first hazing ritual part and help you with some answers.

My money is on a 145.026 from between 1971-1972 as it has a B3 3-6-9 dial without dots and the thickness of the case seems to align with the .026 as opposed to the ever so slightly thicker .036. But you’ll have to get the caseback off to verify that assumption.

The whiteness of the lume and lack of obvious aging would lead me to think that the hands have been relumed at some point and that assumption is kind of reinforced with the painted running seconds hand which is black when it should be white, so someone has definitely been playing around with the hands at some point.

When it comes to price… it’s here that you’ll have to do some of your own work. Look at recent eBay sales, check the sales section on this site and you should get a good idea what it’s worth… just keep in mind that yours isn’t in the most immaculate condition, but it is sharp and still has its sunburst finish and original bracelet, which is a bonus.

Hope that helps
Matt

Edited:
 
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I'd not disagree with anything that Matt has suggested^^^^^^ and, truth be told, whilst reading Alex' post I was thinking "grab the book" so Matt beat me to it.

A photo of the case back would be interesting as your second photo suggests that somebody has had a fairly rough-handed go at taking the back off?

When it comes to values - and EBay SOLD prices is a fair place to start your research - please be honest with yourself about the condition of your watch.

You might be wondering about the potential cost of any restoration the watch might need: a full stripdown and service might cost as much as the face value of the watch.

It's always easy here to make assumptions about keeping a watch with family history; heirlooms and all that. Good luck.
 
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By looking at the posted pics you can observe the seal ring around the glass: this is a distinctive feature of the 145.036 (based on my experience the tickness is the very same…)
Also dial and hands are original and not relumed, i would say never touched.
Having said that, the case is unpoloshed but not in the best condition, and the bacelet is an early service one (based on the serial number It could be original to the watch).
I think your example falls in the 2.5/3k$ value range.
 
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Concerning the running second hand, I observed that very same hand in at least two other examples. One of which shall be documented here in the forum.
 
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I would go with @flqt-9000’s opinion over mine any day. It’s generally hard to tell the difference between the 26 and the 36 without really cracking the thing open.