VINTAGE BULOVA/ACCUTRON time pieces, chronograph & divers

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'69 Caravelle Sea Hunter. Just back from a service, not a perfect watch by any means but one I've come to cherish. An objectively bad photo of a watch to celebrate it's return.

 
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The ERA OF TOOL watches she was never a fashion statement back then
Made in 1967 ... she had a full cleaning / overhaul of her mvmnt (only) last Feb 2025, and yes much to my watch makers protestations I had her case (with nos Bulova crown/nos Bulova diver crystal/new gaskets) minus the movement subjected to a 15 minute pressure test BOTH wet and dry.

Dry Test: 5.0 bar (167.3 feet) ... Wet Test: 4.0 bar (133.82 feet)
SHE PASSED
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The ERA OF TOOL watches she was never a fashion statement back then
Made in 1967 ... she had a full breakdown and cleaning / overhaul of her mvmnt (only) last Feb 2025, and yes much to my watch makers protestations I had her case (with nos Bulova crown/nos Bulova diver crystal/new gaskets) minus the movement subjected to a 15 minute pressure test BOTH wet and dry.

Dry Test: 5.0 bar (167.3 feet) ... Wet Test: 4.0 bar (133.82 feet)
SHE PASSED
Quality work 👍👍 can last a lifetime.
 
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Accutron Bulova Spaceview !

April 1985, space shuttle “Discovery” launched on its 4th mission but it is was the first of five shuttle missions for astronaut & mission specialist Dr Jeffrey Alan Hoffman.

On STS 51-D Hoffman wore an Accutron Bulova SpaceView wristwatch, here demonstrating a Hot Wheels toy model car loop. The pre-mission photo shows Hoffman also wearing the Accutron Spaceview tuning fork humming wristwatch with its open design dial so the tuning fork & transistor mechanism can be seen. 2020 marks the 50th anniversary of Accutron as the world’s first successful electronic watch, a microsonic timepiece!

Photos: NASA


 
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BULOVA OCEANOGRAPHER 200M 25 Jewel Automatic Diver @ 38MM minus crown. It came on an oyster ss bracelet with the clasp stamped with the tunning fork logo, screw-down crown, drilled lugs, and substantial case engineering.
image: Tony Li

Offered with a "200M" dial print on the Submariner-style models (1988–1992). The 1980s Submariner homage exclusively used the 25-jewel movement.

A last HOORAH in the middle of the QUARTZ era, they put out an AUTOMATIC diver model based on the ROLEX submariner, complete with 25 Jewel ETA 2824-2 movement (introduced 1982), this is ETA's " TOP GRADE " movement (adjusted in 5 positions), one tier below a CHRONOMETER spec movement.

Absent from official US catalogs and advertisements of the era and appear to have been produced specifically for export to Japan, Hong Kong, and Southeast Asia.

By the mid-to-late 1980s, as Bulova moved production overseas (in this case Bulova Swiss) following its acquisition by Loews Corporation (1979) and prior to the Citizen buyout, many bracelets were sourced from Japanese or Hong Kong manufacturers. These often lack a specific maker's mark on the clasp, bearing only "Stainless Steel" and the Bulova/Accutron logo. Stelux is a very likely manufacturer as they have had previous history and association with Bulova as their budget friendly ss bracelets supplier versus their American made premium line of ss bracelets.

These (Stelux bracelets) were branded either Bulova/Accutron or the Tunning fork Logo on the clasp that had Stainless Steel, Japan or Hong Kong on its underside.

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FORSTNER BRACELET REVISIONIST MARKETING​

​

False Attribution of Manufacturer​

The ad claims: "The Forstner Bullet Bracelet was one of the OEM bands supplied..."

Attributing a JB Champion USA product to the Forstner brand name. "Bullet" bracelet design and its production for BULOVA were executed under the JB Champion U.S.A. brand.

The original OEM bracelet for the Bulova Accutron Astronaut was manufactured by JB Champion USA (Jacoby Bender, Inc.), not by a non existent bracelet manufacturer at this point in time named Forstner - who had no input whatsoever in the JB Champion U.S.A. BULLET bracelets design or manufacturing.​


 
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what is gold trading at ? its current melt value ?
 
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what is gold trading at ? its current melt value ?

18k is about $97 usd per gram. But a gold watch might get $76 per gram


Sold for crazy money
 
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Paul Newman and
Bulova Accutron Spaceview
Model 214, Case ref.# 2528 "G"
stainless steel





above is a candid shot when the cameras stopped rolling still in his character Frank Capua jump suit from the film and below it a segment in the film of Paul with a Bulova Accutron Spaceview Model 214, Case #2528 "G" on the wrist his personal daily wearer

While the Bulova Accutron Spaceview is not clearly visible in the final footage of Winning (1969) due to camera distance and lighting, this is the watch Paul Newman wore during the actual filming period.

Unlike the Rolex, which was a gift from his wife Joanne Woodward specifically because of his racing involvement in the film, the Bulova was a watch Newman owned and wore personally.



With rod and reel on a friend’s fishing boat
wearing a stainless steel Bulova Accutron Spaceview
Florida Keys, Summer 1967
Photographs by Mark Kaufmann

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June 1983 STS-7 space shuttle Challenger ...

Naval aviator & astronaut/physician Norman Thagard wore his personal Accutron Astronaut 214HN tuning fork wristwatch together with his NASA issued Omega Speedmaster


 
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Accutron Master Timer placed In The Moon’s Sea of Tranquility

During The First Moon Landing (Apollo 11, Which Reached The Moon On July 20, 1969) Being Programmed By Bulova Technician [take note of coils or lack there of?]

NASA and MILITARY timer used accutron movements will have a bar installed over top of the tuning fork to prevent it from flexing during extreme G force acceleration.



Bulova Engineer Working On Final Adjustments​




Though the Accutron can not claim to have been worn on the wrist of an Astronaut while walking on the lunar surface on the Appolo missions, It can claim the fact that it has gone to space, landed on the lunar surface, was used on lunar missions and IS THE ONLY WATCH THAT WENT and was LEFT ON THE MOON .

All timing devices aboard both the LUNAR orbiter and LUNAR lander had accutron movements. Apollo 16 used and left a Lunar Surface Experiments Package (ALSEP) on April 21, 1972 for Passive Seismic Experiment (PSE). In Dec 1972 Apollo 17 landed on the LUNAR surface and collected additional data from the piece of equipment, the accutron watch housed on the piece of equipment was still functioning and keeping perfect time. Unfortunately Apollo 17 was the last LUNAR mission, the Seismic equipment with the Accutron watch is still there on the lunar surface to this day,

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BULOVA ACCUTRON ASTRONAUT GMT 214HN (hacking)
circa: 1966

A vintage curiosity, a militarily certified, space qualified instrument that has an accuracy of +/- 1 minute per month.

The Bulova Accutron GMT 214HN stands as a pinnacle of precision engineering and Cold War-era innovation, exclusively reserved for U.S. manufactured Astronaut models that achieved legendary status through their adoption in high stakes aerospace and military operations.



The caliber 214HN distinguished by its hacking mechanism (part# 194) and GMT function with 24-hour hand was the only Accutron movement type issued to pilots of the U.S. Air Force’s X-15 rocket plane and the CIA’s A-12 Oxcart program, the latter being the predecessor to the SR-71 Blackbird.

It was used in multiple U.S. space missions, including those involving astronaut EVA timelines and spacecraft systems synchronization. it was also worn aboard Skylab and Space Shuttle flights.

Smithsonian archives, and the U.S. Department of Defense confirms the 214HN’s use in military applications, particularly by U.S. Air Force test pilots and Navy personnel, due to its precision and reliability under extreme conditions.

Environmental Considerations for use by Airmen and Astronauts:

NASA Scuba Dive Training -

Mercury astronaut Leroy Gordo Cooper with his Accutron Astronaut paired with " NASA bracelet" by JB Champion USA during scuba exercise.



While airmen / astronauts might encounter water in emergency ejections or crash landings, the watch’s water resistance was considered sufficient for short-term exposure, such as splashes or brief submersion, but not prolonged underwater activity.
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BULOVA 666 FEET DEEP SEA DIVER CHRONOGRAPH SERIES variant " B "
Mvmnt: cal. 14EB manual wind no date complication
Case Ref.# 895, SWISS
by Gebrüder Gassmann
also known as Gassmann SA.
@ 38MM (37.5mm) minus crown


Bulova plexi ref.# 825AW
G-S Supplies, Inc. was an Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) supplier for Bulova.




Poinçon de Maître "GG"
Master's Mark




Gebrüder Gassmann was a dedicated case manufacturer (boîtierier), not a movement maker or complete watch brand. Their primary business was engineering and machining stainless steel and precious metal cases for other famous brands. Gassmann supplied cases to top-tier brands including Omega, Breitling, Longines, these brands maintained strict quality control and would not risk their reputation on inferior case makers.

Engineering Focus:

Unlike some competitors who focused on decorative cases, Gassmann specialized in technical, tool-watch cases. Their 'Ref 895' and similar models were engineered for high water resistance, featuring precise threading for screw-down backs and heavy-duty (or substantial) lugs capable of withstanding the rigors of professional diving."

While the company name is less marketed today, Gassmann cases are highly regarded by collectors for their durability and finishing. Many vintage Gassmann cases from the 1960s and 70s remain corrosion-free and structurally sound, a testament to the quality of their steel and machining.

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Accutron Astronaut tuning fork GMT

Walker leaving the USAF support van together with an USAF officer-pilot carrying the ventilation unit for the David Clark pressure suit. Note the crown-less Accutron Astronaut tuning fork GMT pilot wristwatch at his left forearm. Walker made 25 flights in the rocket plane, reaching Mach 5.9 and an altitude of 107 Km, a world record for winged vehicles.

Photo: NASA



NASA test pilot Joe Walker

The 2nd pilot to fly the rocket plane, here seen after another testflight in the hypersonic research rocket plane. Walker flew Walker made 25 flights reach Mach 5.92 and an altitude of 107 kilometer. Note the Accutron Astronaut tuning fork GMT wristwatch on a 44 cm long webbing strap at his left forearm over the David Clark pressure suit.

Photo: NASA



USAF test pilot Robert Rushworth leaving the cockpit after a research flight.

Accutron Astronaut GMT pilot-wristwatch clearly visible at his left forearm. Rushworth made 34 flights, reaching Mach 6.0 and an altitude of 87 Km earning him the USAF astronaut wings.

Photo: NASA

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BULOVA SS Bracelets (OEM)

BULOVA's factory-original, high-quality, premium line of stainless steel bracelets were supplied by JB Champion U.S.A. and Kreisler.

OEM JB Champion bracelets supplied to Bulova were never stamped with the word "BULOVA" on the clasp. For models associated with the Accutron line the clasp was typically branded with the Accutron Tuning Fork logo.

These bracelets will have JB Champions' trademark logo of a "triangle with the letters JB inside" the word "CHAMPION" (their line of bracelets) and "U.S.A."
(indicating the bracelet's manufacturing origin)

Jacoby-Bender, Inc.
was incorporated in New York on September 21, 1936.

By the 1950s, the company was already a major manufacturer of jewelry and watch bands, with trademarks for the "JB" logo in use by 1958.

JB Champion USA is not Forstner who was a completely separate company based in New York during this same period. Forstner is a company they bought and took over in 1963.

BULOVA offered cost-effective, overseas-produced stainless steel bracelets that were supplied by Stelux stamped with the word "BULOVA" (or "CARAVELLE") on the outside of the clasp and on the underside of the clasp it will have any of the following text -

"KREISLER STELUX" Stelux acquired the rights to the Kreisler name for watch bands, KREISLER stayed in the US their product line then offered "KREISLER" (USA Made) and "KREISLER STELUX" (Imported).

"STAINLESS STEEL" (sometimes preceded by "ALL" or "100%")

"JAPAN" (indicating the bracelet's manufacturing origin)

"HONG KONG" (indicating the bracelet's manufacturing origin)

Distinguishing these budget models from the unbranded (or Tuning Fork logo) premium USA-made JB Champion bracelets.

Bulova's choice of Stelux was not a compromise in quality as Stelux (STLX) in that region of the world was a premier manufacturer of bracelets whose name literally combined "Steel" and "Luxury," while they were the budget friendly option offered by Bulova due to it's lower-cost production overseas, Stelux bracelets were standard only on specific SEIKO high-end and mid-range models sold in the Japanese Domestic Market (JDM) and select Southeast Asian regions.



The "Kreisler Stelux" branding appearing on Bulova and Zodiac watches in the 1970s represents this era where Stelux marketed Drema-manufactured goods under the legacy Kreisler name.

Drema was part of the Hong Kong watch component industry that expanded significantly in the 1960s and 1970s, supplying factories and brands with stainless steel bracelets for companies.

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