to oil the friction spring for sweep second pinion or not?

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This one seems to be a bit of a perennial argument about whats the best practice, and I wouldn't be surprised if omega's own advice has changed over the years.

I have seen a lot of differing opinions on this one,

I currently have a 684 on the bench and after putting in the friction spring my amplitude has tanked, and it does seize up after a little while.

My thoughts were that the advice not to oil was based on the older non synthetic oils that would become sticky over time, but this is purely conjecture on my part. Based in part that the 1010 series lubrication guide I have says to lubricate the functional part of the friction spring.

I am also a bit nervous to bend the spring as there are many horror stories online of people breaking them, and in the case of a 684 I find less of these floating around and parts can be a bit harder for me to come by than something from the 550 or 1010 series movements.

If there is a conclusive direction from Omega, I was hoping that maybe @Archer or someone else might be able to illuminate this one for me.

Cheers.
 
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I seriously doubt that NOT lubricating the pinion tension spring would cause a serious drop in amplitude, and cause the watch to stop. I think you are looking elsewhere for answers.
 
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What is your balance amplitude with the friction spring removed? Note that Omega calls for the amplitude to be at least 160 degrees in any position (lift angle set to 49 degrees) 24 hours after a full wind, with the movement fully assembled.

To answer your question, no you don't typically lubricate these. The trick here is to get the right balance of enough tension on the spring to stop the hand from stuttering, but not enough to cause a major drop in balance amplitude.

There is sort of a "rule of thumb" as a place to start. Before you install the pallet fork or balance, install the friction spring, and give the stem a small amount of wind. Let the train come to a stop, and then gently lift the friction spring off the sweep seconds pinion. Watch the wheel that is driving the pinion, and it should turn 1.5 times before stopping. This rule is one I was taught for watches with a separate drive wheel that is pressed on to drive the SS pinion, but it should work the same on this one.

But again, just enough friction to stop the stuttering is what you are looking for.

Cheers, Al
 
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without the friction spring I get 254 degrees, with the lift angle set to 49 degrees (from full wind), so I was thinking the rest of the movement is healthy.

I will have a go at gently massaging the spring for the 1.5 revolutions of the driving wheel.

Thanks for the tip!