noless
·This one seems to be a bit of a perennial argument about whats the best practice, and I wouldn't be surprised if omega's own advice has changed over the years.
I have seen a lot of differing opinions on this one,
I currently have a 684 on the bench and after putting in the friction spring my amplitude has tanked, and it does seize up after a little while.
My thoughts were that the advice not to oil was based on the older non synthetic oils that would become sticky over time, but this is purely conjecture on my part. Based in part that the 1010 series lubrication guide I have says to lubricate the functional part of the friction spring.
I am also a bit nervous to bend the spring as there are many horror stories online of people breaking them, and in the case of a 684 I find less of these floating around and parts can be a bit harder for me to come by than something from the 550 or 1010 series movements.
If there is a conclusive direction from Omega, I was hoping that maybe @Archer or someone else might be able to illuminate this one for me.
Cheers.
I have seen a lot of differing opinions on this one,
I currently have a 684 on the bench and after putting in the friction spring my amplitude has tanked, and it does seize up after a little while.
My thoughts were that the advice not to oil was based on the older non synthetic oils that would become sticky over time, but this is purely conjecture on my part. Based in part that the 1010 series lubrication guide I have says to lubricate the functional part of the friction spring.
I am also a bit nervous to bend the spring as there are many horror stories online of people breaking them, and in the case of a 684 I find less of these floating around and parts can be a bit harder for me to come by than something from the 550 or 1010 series movements.
If there is a conclusive direction from Omega, I was hoping that maybe @Archer or someone else might be able to illuminate this one for me.
Cheers.