"To lume or not to Lume". That is the question SM300

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I'm all for originality but in this case may consider a re-lume of dial and hands,.......... or just the hands.
My SM300 dial has clearly seen better "lume days" but what's the general consensus.?
I'm thinking of sending this and my hands to "James" for a makeover.
My thoughts are, it's best to keep the original dial as-is, but want to make the watch more presentable. IE polish the crystal, service the movement and have it re-lumed, or just the hands .
It seems the SM300 dials have great looking indices even with the lume mostly missing, so do I leave them alone (showing character) or indulge in a re-lume but using a product without the lasting glow as it would be if the lume were original.. Thoughts ? The hands have zero lume.
My question is based on how much does this hurt value compare to leaving it alone, assuming the re-lume is done to a very high standard.
A general discussion regarding thoughts on re-luming higher value watches is all I'm inquiring about. I've read so many reactions regarding this. I'm just curious.

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Why don’t you show the entire dial so we can get feel for overall look.
 
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Why don’t you show the entire dial so we can get feel for overall look.
I don't have the watch in my possession at the moment, I was thinking I could get a general idea of what peoples thoughts are on re-luming
 
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A dial with ugly/mouldy original lume will be worth more with a good relume.
A dial with good original lume will be devalued with a relume.

Unfortunately it’s often not as binary as this as most dials fall somewhere in the grey area in the middle. Hence why @SOG53 is asking for a picture as it depends on the overall look of your dial.

Even then you’re unlikely to get a consensus as the grey middle is subjective.
 
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You have 3 different posts in one day in different threads on the same watch. Why dont you make one thread on the watch and ask your questions there. Very confusing to chase the 3 threads down with only partial info in each one. Make it easier for us to help you please!
 
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You have 3 different posts in one day in different threads on the same watch. Why dont you make one thread on the watch and ask your questions there. Very confusing to chase the 3 threads down with only partial info in each one. Make it easier for us to help you please!
I completely agree. Sorry for the confusion. In all fairness, I was asking in my previous posts to learn about a watch. I've now got those answers. . Now those questions got answered, I posted a question to see what this group thought of that watches with all the photos. It's too bad I can't delete those other posts. Oh well, it's all a learning curve as mentioned in the evaluation post. Again, sorry for the confusion.
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after looking at the other posts and photos, I would consider whether the dial, bezel and case look consistent. IMO the dial lume and case and bezel do look consistent, and if you get perfect relumed dial and hands they will look out of place with the bezel and case.
If the watch were mine, I would try to get the hands without lume fixed with lume color that compliments the current dial plots, and leave the rest as is and you will have an attractive and balanced looking watch which you can wear.
 
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Looking at the full photo of the dial from your other post, it is just a couple of indices which look "moldy". Overall, the dial lume looks decent and as mentioned by others, a dial with original lume will be devalued with a relume.
 
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after looking at the other posts and photos, I would consider whether the dial, bezel and case look consistent. IMO the dial lume and case and bezel do look consistent, and if you get perfect relumed dial and hands they will look out of place with the bezel and case.
If the watch were mine, I would try to get the hands without lume fixed with lume color that compliments the current dial plots, and leave the rest as is and you will have an attractive and balanced looking watch which you can wear.
Great advice thanks. I think I'll stay simple to start and have just the hands relumed and matched to the dial and see how things look.
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I recently had my Seamaster serviced by OMEGA. Dial lume was definitely waning, so hands and dial were replaced together to ensure the lume intensity was the same (so they said when I asked). It’d suck to have bright hands and dull/no dial lume, or vise versa. If you can, I’d bite-the-bullet and get them all replaced with new to preserve future value.
 
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I would always err on the side of never touching/reluming/re-colouring dial plots unless they have been washed and only the the backing painty remains. Someone like Adam Lewis (Lewiswatchco), James Hyman (The Alchemist) or Lukas (Horoluma) will be able to add lume to those hands to match the plots and have them react to a charge with the same intensity and consistency as the dial plots. Looks like a good project if you can visualize the end product. Ask the seller for a full high-res dial pic and post here. As for your other posts, contact the admin/moderators and let them know what's happened and I am sure they will simplify things.
 
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I recently had my Seamaster serviced by OMEGA. Dial lume was definitely waning, so hands and dial were replaced together to ensure the lume intensity was the same (so they said when I asked). It’d suck to have bright hands and dull/no dial lume, or vise versa. If you can, I’d bite-the-bullet and get them all replaced with new to preserve future value.

I’m not sure what seamaster @Rheide has but this is terrible advise for a 60’s seamaster 300. Please do not consider having the dial replaced.
 
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I’m not sure what seamaster @Rheide has but this is terrible advise for a 60’s seamaster 300. Please do not consider having the dial replaced.
I think he's talking about a modern version, but don't worry, I would never consider it. In the end, mine will have lume that only lasts about 3-5 seconds as old Tritium lume should. My SM60 and SM120 from the 60s only last that long.
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Matching colour (minimal invasive) of the lume should be the goal, and NOT any night-readability/visibility!
 
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Matching colour (minimal invasive) of the lume should be the goal, and NOT any night-readability/visibility!
My other two SMs have less than 5sec worth of lume power and that's my goal. Cheers

 
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I know James H uses a particular ‘fast fade’ compound for reluming that glows for 5-10 secs after being illuminated by light so mimics old tritium.