I’m looking to purchase my first vintage watch - a simple gold dress watch 33-35mm (not plate or rolled). I’m really pulled toward IWC and while I’m still new I know the cal. 89 is well-regarded. I’d love to hear any comments on this one. I found online for sale. The seller is asking $1500.

 

I like vintage IWC dress watches as well but one needs to watch out for redials as they are notorious for them. Hard to decipher from your photo if that dial is Kosher but perhaps another member will be more confident in making that judgement.

 

Personally I've really enjoyed owning quite a few vintage iwc dress watches in my time - I'd say you could probably find something in better condition than this. The movements are pretty robust so you'd probably be fine there, but the dial is a bit damaged and the case also, and the hands. looks like the claw lugs case which means it's 36 or 37mm which is nice.

As far as I can tell though looks like not-a-redial so that's good. Something closer to 1000 could be fairer to be honest? Or maybe 1200 or 1300 USD. Similar to rolex, I think the value derives from the condition of the dial and hands, and secondarily the case.

There are these which cost significantly more, but in the currently climate you coul probably negotiate a discount. These are in better condition, and to be honest I think it's worth paying more if you can. Get best condition of a watch that you can for your budget I'd say. Maybe consider some of the stainless steel IWCs?

https://www.chrono24.com/iwc/iwc-me...d-wind-dress-watch-fancy-lugs--id22055790.htm

https://www.chrono24.com/iwc/iwc-calatrava-cal89--id23898912.htm

https://www.chrono24.com/iwc/vintage-cal89--id26468651.htm

 

Otherwise, never bought from them, but there seems to be a japanese dealer that sells vintage IWCs on the cheap, like this:

https://www.chrono24.com/iwc/iwc-schaffhauseniwc-k18yg--cal89------id27445627.htm

 

These comments are very helpful - and thanks for the link. I certainly understand buying the best version you can. I would have to stay close to $1k so hoping if it’s a little more than that there’s room to negotiate.

does that seem reasonable? Perhaps if it’s a cal 402 maybe?

 

I like this reference, but it's not a good example. Ugly dial, lugs thin and bent. On the other hand, a good example will cost nearly 2x the asking price.

 

That makes sense - I’ve seen some go for a lot more so I was trying to discern what the reason was for this price. I thought I read somewhere that blemish slots on dials weren’t uncommon for cal 89 so I was okay Loki by last that. I was mainly looking for something unpolished. Based on the thinness of the script I’m pretty sure it’s not a redial

 

It is not unpolished. The original shark fin lugs are thicker and more wedge shaped. I suggest going a google image search and studying a bunch of good examples. The shape of the lugs is the key feature on these.

 

Thank you!

 

I think you can do better for that kind of money. The watch had a hard life.

 

That’s good to know - I feel like my budget barely gets me in the door

 

For an IWC shark fin, I think you're correct. You probably can't get a good one for $1500 these days. I would budget $2500, and then be prepared to be patient. But there are other nice dress watches that you can find for your budget.

But if you buy an unappealing example for $1500 and then decide to upgrade later, it will be hard to sell the watch, and you may end up spending even more money in the end.

 

Agreed on the shark fin - part of why I was asking about this one as those don’t pop up in that price range. Really my only qualifications are solid gold, simple design, reliable movement, 33-35mm, good condition. Preferably something IWC, otherwise Longines or Omega

 

Sorry. I should have been more clear. You can find a better dress watch iwc from the 50's or 60's in stainless steel for $ 1500. Not solid gold. That will be real difficult.

 

I understand - I think though it could
Help that I’m open to something that may not be flawless

 

Agree with the above about conditions.
However OP's dial seems repainted to my eye: logo looks a bit off and the lack of "swiss" at 6 makes me suspicious, because I always see it on these.

 

There is nothing like a gold dress watch. But if it isn't in very good condition, it loses a lot of appeal on the wrist. I'd suggest spending a little more time studying IWC and Longines and Gerard Périgueux...all make outstanding watches and have similar looks and sizes. You can also use the time to build up some extra money so that you can get that just ever so much nicer example. And also give Jaeger-LeCoultre a tumble. I just sold a very very nice 35mm 10k gold filled bumper automatic for just under a thousand, so they are out there.