Thoughts on 18K Constellation 168.025 pie-pan tuxedo

[Tag0935]

Dear OF
After reading Ashley's awesome article https://stories.omegaforums.net/constellation-monocoque-piepan/ on the Constellation Monocoque watches I dreamed of obtaining the 168.025 pie-pan tuxedo. It took one year before one finally appeared online for sale. I took the chance and bought it. In the meantime, I read Desmond's blog http://download1923.mediafire.com/9x9xkg9ymu7g/zjzxx3wwtdh/omega+constellation168.025.pdf to educate myself, but with so many variations in the Constellation range, I feel unsuited to make a qualified judgment of the watch. Hence I turn to you and ask for your opinion. Due to the case design, I haven't documented the movement, so I can only provide external pictures. The hands move but I prefer not to hand-wind the movement until a full service.

My questions:
Please judge the possible authenticity and overall condition, is it an 18K gold case?

I couldn't spot an etched Omega symbol on the crystal - does it mean the crystal is an aftermarket replacement? The modern Omegas that I bought brand new in an OB do not have the logo on the crystal either, so does it matter for authenticity?

The crown - Desmond states that the 168.025 has some different crown than the companion series 167.015/25, is this one legit?

The case contains some weird marks/dents (signaled on pictures). Do you have an explanation for them?

Thank you!

 

[cristos71]

I like the dial and hands, but the case looks soft and heavily worn. I'd pass based on case condition.

 

[kaplan]

The thing near the crown is the hallmark, caseback thing is a dent, you could easily wear it down and get rid of it, if it causes discomfort on wrist

I personally like the watch

 

[Fallout Boy]

You should open the case (by a watchmaker) for more information (on the case-back inside)
IMO there are specialistst to bring back the case (Yes, I think 18kt) to an acceptable condition.

 

[gatorcpa]

Fallout Boy

You should open the case (by a watchmaker) for more information (on the case-back inside)
IMO there are specialistst to bring back the case (Yes, I think 18kt) to an acceptable condition.

This is one of the very few watches where it’s really unnecessary to open it up, unless it’s being serviced.

All the information you need is in the outside of the case, including the Swiss gold hallmark. The crowns for both the 168.015 and .025 are the same and were made to fit only this case style. This crown looks OK to me.

https://www.omegawatches.com/en-us/watch-omega-constellation-omega-st-168-0025

A good jeweler should be able to laser weld that dent away if you like. The dial looks to be in good condition for this style. For some reason, the “tuxedo” dials did not age as well as the standard brushed finish dials. Painted markers are also in good shape.

Very nice watch!
gatorcpa

 

[Tag0935]

Thanks for your observations, the hallmark and dent are now clear to me. What about the case itself? I assume 18K gold is soft, hence the scratches accumulate and the edges soften over 50 years. But what would be your assessment? And the logo-less crystal?

 

[gatorcpa]

Tag0935

And the logo-less crystal?

Non-Omega generic replacement. Not a big deal.
gatorcpa

 

[dsio]

I think that tuxedo dial is fantastic, case has been polished but it’s still a very cool and special watch

 

[Tag0935]

As regards service, can I bring it to Omega even if it has the non-branded crystal or do I have to seek out an independent watchmaker? Sorry for the dumb question, this is my first vintage watch so I have no experience, thank you for guidance.

 

[theluckyluke]

Independent watchmaker recommended usually. Omega will charge much more and will try to send you back a “brand new” watch, replacing parts that you might not want to be replaced (and charging a hefty amount in the process) if concerned about originality.

You can use the search function on the forum, or share your approx location, to get advice on where to go.

Very important to be clear what you want to do (and don’t want) at the watchmaker - ie never ever touch the dial (most important here) do not polish the case, or do it gently etc.

Usually the idea is to focus on the movement. This can also be a good opportunity to swap parts that are non original (crown etc.). Some watchmakers might be able to help, or you could find a correct crown and then bring it for service to be installed (assuming it’s not correct, no idea on this as not familiar with this ref). They might also be able to swap the crystal for a branded one.

 

[theluckyluke]

Beautiful watch by the way. The dial configuration is stunning.

 

[krogerfoot]

Tag0935

As regards service, can I bring it to Omega even if it has the non-branded crystal or do I have to seek out an independent watchmaker? Sorry for the dumb question, this is my first vintage watch so I have no experience, thank you for guidance.

Not a dumb question at all. You’ll be better off with an independent watchmaker. Let us know where you are and a friendly forum member will likely be able to recommend a good one in your vicinity. I agree that the watch is a very good catch. Get it serviced so you can start enjoying it.

 

[Bruce235]

That's a beauty, especially with your first try.
I think I would leave the case as is and maybe research case restorers. Don't have just anybody have a go.
Some polywatch on the crystal will likely be enough.
Get a movement service and start wearing it.
Congrats.

 

[Verdi]

The plexi having the omega mark is not important. You wanna make sure you have the right crown, which appears to be correct.
For the rest of the elements, I’ll let the others chime in.

Here is mine for comparison. I think mine is unpolished. I hope it helps

 

[Tag0935]

Verdi

The plexi having the omega mark is not important. You wanna make sure you have the right crown, which appears to be correct.
For the rest of the elements, I’ll let the others chime in.

Here is mine for comparison. I think mine is unpolished. I hope it helps

Thank you so much for sharing your photos, your Connie looks fantastic! Would you mind also posting a full picture of the case back, I am interested to see how it should look. Mine is mirror-smooth and the observatory lacks the bricks that can be seen on other watches.

 

[Tag0935]

I would be grateful for any tips for independent watchmakers who have access to genuine Omega parts and could disassemble the watch (special tool needed) and service the movement. I live in Zurich. I read a thread (which I unfortunately cannot now find) where members recommended https://losttimepieces.com/ but I am open to any plausible alternative, preferably around ZH, but if it is worth the effort due to the watchmaker's excellent experience, also anywhere in Switzerland would be ok, thank you!

 

[RoadRunner73]

The stars above the observatory seem quite big, which would indicate it is not a swiss-made case, but I might be wrong. Definitely a beauty, worth being serviced; have the case restored is another question : some might, some would leave it as is.

 

[Eco54]

Everyone has already answered your questions here, so I just wanted to chime in and add my congratulations on a really nice watch. I very much like that beautiful dial.

 

[Tag0935]

RoadRunner73

The stars above the observatory seem quite big, which would indicate it is not a swiss-made case, but I might be wrong. Definitely a beauty, worth being serviced; have the case restored is another question : some might, some would leave it as is.

Yes, the stars and observatory seem a little different than other Connies I've seen, albeit all were different models, none was 168.025 in gold. Given the variation in dial configurations, I cannot make any conclusions about the case. I tried searching for Swiss hallmarks https://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/swisshallmarks.php but I am no expert and the imprint on the case is super small and maybe a little patinated for me to decipher. I hope there will be something on the back of the case once the watchmaker extracts the movement.

 

[Peemacgee]

Tag0935

Yes, the stars and observatory seem a little different than other Connies I've seen, albeit all were different models, none was 168.025 in gold. Given the variation in dial configurations, I cannot make any conclusions about the case. I tried searching for Swiss hallmarks https://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/swisshallmarks.php but I am no expert and the imprint on the case is super small and maybe a little patinated for me to decipher. I hope there will be something on the back of the case once the watchmaker extracts the movement.

your case and caseback are correct for a Swiss gold168.025

Gold 168.025s don’t have brickwork observatories.
See this link from Desmond’s site
https://download848.mediafire.com/k.../8kofwybgfsqmsp1/Constellation+medallions.pdf



The case has the Swiss Helvetia mark for 18k gold - the lower mark shown here but on its side