Thinking about buying an OEM flatlink for my 3861 speedy

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So I love my 3861 and the bracelet, but every time I see pics of a 105012 in its original flatlink, I can't help wishing Omega made a 3861 flatlink.

I have the forstner version, and while it's very nice, I really wish it was OEM. I know that sounds shallow, but I just really like the look of those early 1960s Speedmaster Pros.

So I'm thinking about getting an OEM flatlink, and was just wondering if anyone had any advice about which one to get, and more importantly, which end links will fit.

Cheers

Edit: here's a few pics so people can see what I'm talking about.

Just to clarify, these are pics of original 105012 Speedmasters I found on the Internet, with their original bracelets. I just posted them to show people the look I'm going for.

Edited:
 
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Apollo 11 50th flat link fits. The end links need to be modified to fit the 1861/3 cases or you can use uncle Seiko (hollow) or forstner end links.

Looks and wears great. (Image taken while not driving)
 
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Before you go down the OEM route, I’d suggest trying a Forstner or UncleStraps version. As the previous post noted, you’d likely need the end pieces from one of them anyway.

I wear the Forstner contemporary flat-link on my FOiS Speedy all the time — it’s a good bracelet.
 
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Before you go down the OEM route, I’d suggest trying a Forstner or UncleStraps version. As the previous post noted, you’d likely need the end pieces from one of them anyway.

I wear the Forstner contemporary flat-link on my FOiS Speedy all the time — it’s a good bracelet.

I already have a forstner contemporary flatlink, but it's just not the same as having an oem.
 
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So I love my 3861 and the bracelet, but every time I see pics of a 105012 in its original flatlink, I can't help wishing Omega made a 3861 flatlink.

I have the forstner version, and while it's very nice, I really wish it was OEM. I know that sounds shallow, but I just really like the look of those early 1960s Speedmaster Pros.

So I'm thinking about getting an OEM flatlink, and was just wondering if anyone had any advice about which one to get, and more importantly, which end links will fit.

Cheers

Edit: here's a few pics so people can see what I'm talking about.


No no no, don't worry about that, it doesn't sound shallow at all; although looking at your images, that Forstner bracelet looks absolutely amazing! I seriously would not be able to tell that that wasn't an OEM at any distance, especially with the OEM buckle modification. Best I've ever seen!
 
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No no no, don't worry about that, it doesn't sound shallow at all; although looking at your images, that Forstner bracelet looks absolutely amazing! I seriously would not be able to tell that that wasn't an OEM at any distance, especially with the OEM buckle modification. Best I've ever seen!

Sorry, I think my original post was a little confusing. Those aren't pics of my watch. They're 105012 Speedies I found online with their original buckles. Just to show people the early 60s speedmaster look I like.

I've edited it now just to clear that up. Apologies for the confusion.
 
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Sorry, I think my original post was a little confusing. Those aren't pics of my watch. They're 105012 Speedies I found online with their original buckles. Just to show people the early 60s speedmaster look I like.

I've edited it now just to clear that up. Apologies for the confusion.
No worries, I was going to ask you for your commensurate patina method😉
 
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I have the Apollo 11 50th bracelet on my 3861 hesalite. After doing some research, I decided to use the Forstner end links to fit it with. The idea of fiddling with the OEM A11 links was not appealing, and the Forstners seem to fit the 3861 case better than the Uncle Seiko links.

 
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Although not period correct for a 105.012, the most affordable option for an OEM flat link is the 1175 with 640 end links. With some work and a bit of luck you can sometimes find the bracelet for $500 and Swatch/Omega still makes the 640 end links. The 1175 doesn’t have the spring links like the 1039 (which I think is a good thing) and the construction is more robust. It has a decidedly vintage look. Not sure whether it will fit a 3861 case, but worth looking into. Here’s my 1969 Straight Writing with the 1175/640:
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Regarding the Apollo 11 end links: I see no downside to trying to modify them if you have the tools on hand. Who's going to need them unaltered? 😉
 
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Regarding the Apollo 11 end links: I see no downside to trying to modify them if you have the tools on hand. Who's going to need them unaltered? 😉

I have a 3861. My understanding is they will fit unaltered but I might need slightly thinner spring bars.

I've also heard using thinner spring bars is quite a bad idea. So I don't really know who to trust.

I want to keep it 100 percent OEM though.
 
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I have a 3861. My understanding is they will fit unaltered but I might need slightly thinner spring bars.

I've also heard using thinner spring bars is quite a bad idea. So I don't really know who to trust.

I want to keep it 100 percent OEM though.

I've had bad experiences with Swiss-made thinner spring bars bending/failing, I'd try to stay away from them.
 
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I have a 3861. My understanding is they will fit unaltered but I might need slightly thinner spring bars.

I've also heard using thinner spring bars is quite a bad idea. So I don't really know who to trust.

I want to keep it 100 percent OEM though.

A smaller spring bar is going to also cause the endlink to pivot, so it won't be resting against the case evenly because of how the bottom of the endlink is constructed.
 
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The correct bracelet for a 105.012 is a 1506 with 16 Endlinks. Perhaps very late ones came with a 1039 + 516.
You’re looking at £1k minimum for a decent one with end links.
 
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I don't think you will get the look you are after with the 3861 on an OEM bracelet, particularly as you are not happy with it on the Forstner. I think it's the whole vintage 105 look you are after which will only be satisfied by purchasing a 105012, which probably isn't what you want to hear. You could sell the 3861 and then start your search😀.
 
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I don't think you will get the look you are after with the 3861 on an OEM bracelet, particularly as you are not happy with it on the Forstner. I think it's the whole vintage 105 look you are after which will only be satisfied by purchasing a 105012, which probably isn't what you want to hear. You could sell the 3861 and then start your search😀.

I'm very scared to buy a vintage watch in case I spend a lot of money on something really dodgy.
 
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There is another somewhat controversial option, I've seen some very convincing ageing patina simulacrums (hesalite not sapphire), they can look stunning and you need to get pretty close up to see what they are; please be aware this kind of ageing might affect the value, or it could be exactly what some are looking for and would value such work. If I were to go down that route I'd start with getting the lume redone first by a lume expert, and see if I like it, if you didn't like it, you can always have the lume reverted to look identical to the original.
 
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I'm very scared to buy a vintage watch in case I spend a lot of money on something really dodgy.
I get that, I have a 3861 as well on a Forstner contemporary flat link, partly for that reason, but, there is such great knowledge on this site, and some great sales in the for sale section that you could manage to get the knowledge to buy with confidence.
 
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IMHO if you desire original, purchase an original piece, modifications are modifications.
 
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IMHO if you desire original, purchase an original piece, modifications are modifications.
I agree.

@ninman I totally understand your concern about buying a dodgy piece. This forum is a great place to look, and there are dozens (if not hundreds) of Speedmaster experts here that can help you find the right speedy at the right price. If you love the look of the 1960s speedy pros take the plunge.