Hi all,

I wanted to create here a debate regarding how a watch should fit the wrist for newbies (who are considering entering this world) who wonder where to start when choosing the size.

To begin with, a disclaimer:
what I'm writing is just personal observations and some concepts that I got from many courses about proportions at the school of architecture. Everyone has his own taste and reason to wear a particular size: I respect it.
For example, I have a nautica 45mm which looks too big on my small wrist (circa 16cm); but the same watch is a gift from a close friend of mine (who I consider as a brother).

Below a framework that I collected from some forums for watches:

Ultraplat: 34-37mm
Elegant Time and date: 37-38mm
Sporty time and date: 38-41mm
Elegant complications: 40/42mm.
diver/professionals: 40-43mm
Extra sizes: above 43mm

My personal observations:
In the latest years I have observed a general trend of making watches bigger. For example, my first diver from citizen (Aqualand II, no chrono) back in 2003, was 39mm (the biggest for that series). Today, if, for example, I want to get an omega professional 300m (not chronograph), I can have the 41mm (the biggest). In these years my wrist has not changed and IMHO 2mm of difference are noticeable. So, is always good to try the watch on before purchasing.

If you have a wrist which has a circumference of 16/17 cm (as my case), I strongly recommend to not go above the 39 mm dials. It would look too big on your wrist. Below a photo of my Tissot (36mm) and my Swatch (40mm).
To me, the Tissot is just perfect and elegant, the Swatch is clearly going out of the contours of my wrist (it was not bought to be worn with a suit, but still..)


Comments and observations are more than welcomed, especially if you have a larger wrist and you can contribute to this post

 

I just took my measuring tape out my wrists are actually quite small - about 18/19 cm (5.5in) so I should steer clear of big watches > 39mm?

What's a speedy's diameter? Think that's my maximum?

Good post by the way

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I think it's 42mm for the Moonwatch.

 

Depends on model. 39mm, 40mm, 42mm from my understanding.

 

I'm not sure how well aquatinted you are with vintage watches - but you should know that for the majority of the history of the wristwatch, classical sizing was between 31mm-35mm with most being 33-35mm. Sometimes you'd find 36-38mm watches, but they were slightly special in that way or necessary to housing a large movement. Dive watches in the 1960's tended to be large, sure. And some chronographs. But we're talking about the average watch wearer. Most dive watches were still around 36mm and chronographs about 33-36mm.

Then the 70's came along and we started getting chunky funky watches and in the 80's and 90's the gaps filled to a point where 35mm was looking smaller and smaller.

What I'm getting at is that the "perfect proportions" for a wristwatch has changed over time and you'll find, for example, that most people on this forum wear watches around 34mm-36mm. 36mm often times being called "Jumbo"!

 

The sweet spot for me is between 30mm and 43mm.

Yes, it's a wide range, but it has worked for me so far.

 

There was a reason I stopped wearing my Speedmaster Moonwatch... maybe I just felt it didn't fit anymore... wait till I see it next...

Do you think making the straps slightly looser will help?

My wrist has changed sizes too over the years... it's shrunk!

Yes I'm quite excited I'm waiting for a (semi-vintage) 33mm watch in the mail as we speak.

 

Lucky that means you can pull anything off!!!

What size are your wrists out of interest..?

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The length or lug to lug are what's important. I have a 48 mm watch with short lugs which fits fine on my 17cm wrist.


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I have 7.5" wrists and 40-42mm is perfect, while 45-46mm looks proportionate still.


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I don't think I can carry that look off - I think it all comes down to the person and individual taste at the end of the day

But kudos to you - I get a hint of that daredevil personality in you by looking at the picture.

There is a watch made for everyone of us - some of us might be concerned about fit and proportions but sometimes it doesn't really matter... rules are meant to be broken.

I still don't think I can carry the look of a skeleton watch on my wrist - maybe one day it will happen

 

While your interest in creating a primer for easy sizing assistance is admirable, simply using diameter vs wrist circumference for ascertaining appropriate proportions is problematic. It's similar to using BMI as the sole indicator of a person's health - there are so many other factors that need accounting to properly assess sizing, not the least of which is personal style preference which is entirely subjective and immeasurable.

Just off the top the following traits greatly affect how large or small a watch wears:
-Case material
-Case design
-Color
-Bezel style
-Bezel diameter
-Thickness
-Lug design
-Lug dimension
-Complications/subdials
-Dial design
-Marker/indices design and size
-Strap or bracelet
And that's just for the timepiece itself. There are a ton other wearer traits that can size said watch up or down.

If you studied architecture you'd also know how aesthetic detailing can make a structure or element perceived as larger or smaller than the dimensions of height, width and depth. A pediment here, transom there, and voila .....

An honorable idea but flawed execution IMO.

 

Those pants bring back memories of the 70's and 80's in the school hallway hearing the swish-swish-swish of corduroy.

 

Cords are coming back in... just like how flat watches are going to be trendy again. I think you need a new pair of cords ;-)

Strange you noticed the cords - I was more fixated on the peacock's eye looking for the peahen...

 

Just wanted to add that how the strap/bracelet flare out as opposed to drop straight down also adds to the wrist presence.

 

Guess which 0ne is my Diver watch? @tyrantlizardrex is Spot On. I'll do what I Damn Well Please. My mind is not to be imprisoned

 

Completely agree
This is why I wanted to create a discussion about it and to merge all contributions in one post

 

I wish I had a pair of cords but those are just a pair of dark blue chinos with a subtle pin stripe..


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Well, I made a disclaimer where I pointed out clearly that everyone has a taste and specific reason to wear a size instead of another. And I respect it.