Okay, I thought I was completely happy with your bog standard 3-subdial chronograph and then I added the Mk4 and Mk4.5 Speedmaster with a 24-hour subdial.

Then I found that I had a desire to add a GMT/second time zone complication and having lurched into a dive watch with GMT find my appetite only partly satisfied and I find myself now itching for a chrono with GMT complication.

The market is hardly awash with options but alongside Omega I'm starting to look at Sinn, Chopard and a few others: early days and it's time to seek the experience and knowledge of this forum so guys, please, what have I missed?

My criteria are

Second, settable, time zone
Subdial chrono layout
New or pre-owned
Budget up to about £4k

Looking specifically at Omega products, my long-list includes the following:

Flightmaster I like the lure of vintage, I'm up for the quirkiness of the case and I am not looking at an everyday watch.


Seamaster SMP 300M I realise this photo is of a Co-ax version and that similar "pre Co-ax" versions exist which broadly look like this.



Aqua Terra in various colour options and generations. I'm a stranger to this subdial layout having "grown up" with the Valjoux 7750 standard layout of subdials at 6, 9 and 12.


Ref 176 (I'm not sure how better to describe this one

 

Ordinarily I am not a pepsi bezel fan but, hey, that's pretty and so I guess also expensive? Vintage or modern homage?

 

Wow I love that, not normally a TAG guy (not sure if this is pre-TAG?)

 

It's a Heuer (not a "pre-TAG" ) and it's from about 1968. There are around 10 of them known and they are very valuable. However, we're all waiting with baited breath for a modern reissue; I think @Ara had made a few nice-looking mockups at some point. But TAG hates good design, so it's not very likely to happen

 

This thread got me thinking, since I'm in need of a travel watch and I prefer chronographs as well. The best I could find is the Sinn 6000,


38.5mm / 20mm strap, but they're difficult to find. Unfortunately everything else is 44mm or so with 21-22mm straps - even the front-runner, the Tudor Black Bay GMT, is around that size.

 

Grand Seiko or the latest Ball GMT is interesting.

 

but sub dial chronos? I'm at Ball's website and not seeing such.

 

Oh .... Didn’t see the chronograph spec.

 

Montblanc has a few.

 

Dang that’s under the radar and darn sexy. As someone with mixed feelings on Sinn, that’s a winner and doesn’t have any of the issues I have with many of their watches.

Basically they can be a bit too teutonic, not this one though!!

 

Well maybe 10 of that specific case? The 2446c GMT is far more readily available than that. Still will set you back $9-15K depending on condition and specific mark model.

 

I have and wear both the Flightmaster ( cal 911, however) and SMP 300M GMT chrono exactly as pictured. I like both.

The SM 300 GMT Chrono is what I frequently wear when traveling/vacationing as its water resistance is usually unexpectedly tested in some way when on the road. If you get caught out in a heavy rain, hot and humid at the beach, etc, etc, - no problem. However it is a large and fairly heavy watch -if you are used to wearing a Speedmaster. It has a presence. I have a 7 1/2" wrist and it fits well, with my having added an adjustable length clasp to the watch. Keeping the bracelet and watch appropriately snug with temperatureis easy with the use of that adjustable clasp, and makes it easy to wear. Im still very pleased with mine, now 3+ years on from purchase.

the Flightmaster is also a cool watch IMHO, but clearly carries a more vintage vibe. It is no "shrinking violet" on the wrist , either. it also has a presence on the wrist.

The Flighty has the ability to set the GMT hand in any increment- including the 1/2 hour, which may be helpful if traveling to Mumbai- or other places that use a 1/2 hour incremental difference from GMT. The SM300 GMT Chrono has a detented GMT hand that moves the GMT hour hand in one hour "bumps". While it may be possible to set the GMT hand to 1/2 hour increments between the hour detents, I've never had the need to do that.

I'm sure both of those could be brought home for something at - or less than- your 4000 pound sterling budget.

I cant comment on the AT GMT, or the ref 176, never having worn or handled those.

 

True, but there are major differences between the screw-back and snap-back Autavias. Someone looking for one probably wouldn't be as satisfied with the other. For instance, I want a screw-back Autavia GMT like the one above, more than any other watch. But I'm really not very into the 2446C GMT - I find that I don't get on well with compressor cases.

 

Pretty isn't it? To my eyes Sinn are definitely on the shortlist, I've ordered their brochure so I'm awaiting its arrival at present. In fact the only downside is a very strong similarity to an OW Mirage 7750 chrono which holds a place in my heart: part of me says that I would not want two superficially very similar watches (oh I'm sure that's being irrational) which is partly why I'm looking at brands which are a stranger to me.

I'm also considering having my OW Mistral re-engined with a new ETA 7754 movement....

 

This is the Solar Impulse model, right? I need to give this some thought.

 

Add wearability feature (comfort, WR etc), and its a Grand Seiko

 

Let’s agree to disagree





I think the case compliments the dial better imho. Not so fan of the Mark 4 hands though, but I barely notice the red stripe on it when I wear it, so fine by me.

Screw back gen 1 are much rarer indeed but don’t have the same appeal than the snap back case to me. Matter of general proportions ... Plus mine is a birth year watch

 

It's a Ref. 176.007.

While it does have a 24h hand (well... disc), it is not possible to set this independently, so it's not a second timezone.

... but it's one hell of a cool watch!