The New 2021 Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch (Sapphire)

So, last Friday I had the opportunity to go to my local boutique and have a look at their first shipment of the new 2021 Speedmaster Professional Moonwatches. The boutique received 2 hesalite and 2 sapphire watches, all on the bracelet. I already own a number of Speedmasters, so I wasn't expecting much from the new release. The leaked photos left me feeling underwhelmed, and I only intended to feel out the new bracelet, and potentially order one. I wasn't at all expecting to walk out with a new watch.



The first thing that struck me was the dial. When I first got into Speedmasters, I started with vintage ones, but I didn't have the budget for a 321. This meant that I was looking for what I considered to be the next best thing: A 145.022. After reading through as much Speedmaster101 as I could, I found that I really liked how the step on the dial gives vintage Speedmasters much more depth and dimensionality. The way shadows would play with both the guilloche concentric circles and dial step would give vintage Speedmasters a dynamism that modern ones simply didn't have at the time. So, like many of you, I was excited when I found out the new 3861 would have a step dial.

The release photos made the step seem very soft, and the concentric circles would seem to disappear and reappear at random between pictures. But in person, the step is sharp, and the concentric circles, while extremely fine, are clearly visible without magnification.



The applied metal logo (AML) is also very nice. Many members here have noted that they would have preferred Omega use the vintage logo. This would've been really cool, but Omega is likely reserving that for their heritage editions. As this is the standard-issue, modern Speedmaster, it makes sense Omega would use its modern logo.


The AML is also surprisingly well-finished considering its size and complexity. Previous versions of the AML did not include the upturned legs of the Omega symbol. This AML has them, yet it isn't distorted or warped in any way despite how small those details are.

The dial is a very deep black. I was shocked to find out that it is actually a deeper black than even my vintage -71 Speedmaster.


To me, the paint on the previous generation's hands always appeared somewhat chunky. Under macro, it would look a bit like stucco or popcorn ceiling. That has been changed here, as the hands have been given a consistent coat of fine, matte white lacquer. This may be why some have said the 2021 Speedmaster's hands seem "sharper" than the last 1861 model.



Quick note: up close, the consistency of the dial lacquer is similar to the hands – a smooth matte. It reminds me of an oiled whetstone, or something similar.


The handset isn't the only thing that has been made sharper, though. Over the past few years, I think Omega has really improved the quality of their cases. The same is evident here, as the brushing on the sides of the lugs is consistent from edge to edge.


The "milky ring," while still present to a degree, is much less prominent than on previous-generation Speedmasters. It is domed, although it is still box-shaped. It also doesn't use the traditional high-dome profile of the hesalite Speedmasters.


I love like the "105.012" case profile Omega used with the new release. As you can see, it is more in line with that of vintage Speedmasters than the previous case bands of modern Speedmasters. I also just find its proportions really pleasing.

2021 vs 145.022-71


2021 vs Apollo-Soyuz "Speedyorite"

You can also see that Omega has removed the soft iron dust cover, and reduced the height of the caseback. This lets the watch sit lower on the wrist, and it feels much slimmer as a result.

Omega has also improved its tolerances with the new case. The end links feel secure, and the gaps between the case and crown/pushers have been minimized.

2021:

Speedyorite:

This improvement and the shape of the 105.012-style case band make it seem as though the crown is larger, but that doesn't seem to actually be the case.

The lug to lug was also reduced to 47mm from 48mm. With the fully articulating end links, it feels like the watch lost about 6-7mm in length. As someone with a small, 6.25" (~16cm) wrist, this new Speedmaster feels right at home on my wrist.


The bracelet is perhaps the biggest change to the Speedmaster, though. There are tons of good things to say about it:
- The smaller, fully articulating links make the bracelet extremely comfortable.
- The use of screws is standard now, but still nice to see.
- The aforementioned fully articulating end links let the watch wear more true to size.
- The oval links keep hair from being pulled and combined with the 20 to 15mm taper, the bracelet wears very light.
- The adoption of the historical ref 1116/1479 style lets the Speedmaster shed the "Oyster-style" links that it had earlier while retaining the 5-link, even-polished style that it is now known for.
- The polished links are slightly smaller than the brushed links, helping to keep them free of scratches.



The clasp is also quite nice, as the high relief logo mirrors the AML, and the cutout for it lines up with the center link. I like the vertical lines, as it reminds me of the art deco style.



With this update, I don't think the Speedmaster is just a strap monster anymore. The bracelet pulls no punches, and with a good quick-adjust, it would probably be one of the best in its class. Honestly, it's already so comfortable without a quick-adjust, I might not even bother switching out the clasp if Omega comes up with a new one.



At this point, I was already sold. The caseback sticker with the barcode hadn't even been removed yet, and I haven't even looked at the 3861 movement yet. Even so, I already knew I was going to walk out of the boutique with this watch.

I already own a hesalite Speedmaster, so for me, the clear choice was the sapphire. If this were my first Speedmaster, I would probably have still chosen the sapphire. In my opinion, if you want the hesalite crystal for originality/aesthetics, you may be better off getting a vintage 145.022 or 321. Depending on your criteria for consideration, it's may well be closer to what you may really be looking for.

In any case, if you can't already tell, I am thoroughly enjoying my new watch. I feel like Omega really came through with this update, giving us Speedmaster fans pretty much everything that we've wanted (within reason), all the while giving the utmost attention to the details. They really have done an excellent job, and I believe the 2021 Speedmaster is more than worthy of carrying on the torch of the Moonwatch line.



P.S. I would like to thank the San Diego Fashion Valley Omega Boutique for the excellent service and the Snoopy Strap + Deployant! The boutique staff are true watch enthusiasts and have helped me out with accessories and services despite not having yet made a large purchase from them yet. They're really upstanding people and I cannot recommend them enough.

Nice write up 👍 Love how the new bracelet looks. Cant wait to try it on.

As you can see, the bracelet definitely has more play than say, the 2018 Seamaster 300m or the 321/Apollo 11 flatlinks. This probably has to do with the small center link.

While there is a lot of play, I wouldn't call the bracelet floppy, for the same reason I wouldn't call a piece of cloth floppy: The word, to me, connotes at least some degree of ungainly weight. The bracelet feels very, very light – but it also doesn't feel lacking in quality like some vintage bracelets might.

Wrist shots:

You can really see how the new Speedmaster sits much lower, and the watch with the bracelet is now very wearable since the end links don't extend out by an extra 2-3mm on each side.

The reduced caseback height/lower center of mass also keeps the watch from shifting too much on the wrist even when you flex your arm a bit.


I'm really thankful I got to my boutique as early as I did – apparently someone had already reserved a sapphire model to look at, and when I was purchasing the watch, I think another party present was talking about the new Speedmasters and picking one up. My contact phoned me when their delivery came in, and if he hadn't done that I probably would only have been able to see the hesalite model.

For sure! One of the things I realized around the time I got home was how little I actually noticed the milky ring. It's definitely still present, but I feel like that speaks a bit to how less prominent it is in person.

There is a new box for this model, and the sizing is more in line with the standard Omega boxes (the wood ones). It doesn't include any of the extra straps, etc, but it does have a built-in mini travel cube you can use to store the watch in, and is styled like the old moonwatch box. I think some members here have posited that it looks like a recolored Snoopy 3 box sans loupe, and that would seem to be an accurate description. That said, I haven't yet received my Snoopy, nor do I own the old moonwatch box, so there could be some other differences I'm not aware of, though.