I have a 42mm 2500C PO. I bought it a couple of months ago after my last one was stolen in a burglary.

The spring bars have been mauled by somebody previously. So only one side of the spring bar compresses (the same on both spring bars) and because of the nice chunky endlinks I can't do a lot to remove them with the Omega tool that came with my speedy or my bergeon 6767F.

Any other suggestions before I take it to STS? The endlinks move around a bit where as my last one they were flush against the body and rigid so I would guess the wrong spring bar was used.

I cant get a very clear picture. I have spare original Omega bars ready to go in, but at this rate it will be a case of buying two more 952 end links and cutting through the end link with a small hack saw to remove it or to the Omega service centre as stated above. Both costly options no doubt for something that should be so trivial. The speedy has never caused me issues nor any of my other watches.

Any links to tools I could try from cousinsuk or similar?

Thanks in advance all.

 

I use the edge of a blade (something like a Stanley knife) or 1.0mm screw driver to get between the case and the spring bar. Just take it slowly so as not to damage the case

 

I've tried a 1mm screwdriver. I will try a blade. The issue seems to be when I do the side that doesn't want to compress the far side does so as the bar comes out of the hole there is no compression left for the opposite side. I think it is where they have marred the metal it stops in bar going into the tube that side.

 

Squirt some WD-40m on the stuck side, leave for a bit and see if it loosens up? Never tried this myself since I've never had to but if I were in your shoes that's what I'd try. Nothing to loose really.

 

If you get enough compression to get the bar out of the hole, you should be able to use some force and get the bracelet off the watch. Yes, it will likely bend the bars, but who cares about that at this point? The only concern would be some minor scratching on the inside of the lugs. A lot more damage would be done with the hacksaw, I'm sure.

And I'll bet that's the same thing that most "watchmakers" would do. Force it 'till it works.

I don't know what "STS" is.

 

I will try WD40 as per above. I think I know what you mean, but the solid end links on this don't give me much play.

STS is swiss time services the UK Omega service centre.

 

If you’re willing to sacrifice the spring bars try drilling through them with a very fine drill bit and very slowly. They are hollow while the end link is solid steel, you won’t go through the end link. You just want to separate the main part of the spring bar by drilling through it from the tip that is inside the lug, then you can remove the end link. I’d use a dremel tool or a drill press and work very slowly with the watch secured.

 

This. I used a Dremel in a similar situation, but you have to be ultra ultra careful.

 

OMG NO NEVER WD-40! EVER!

That stuff is GLUE.

Please take this to the repair center, they won't charge you.

 

Not sure what kind of WD-40 you use but it was originally designed to protect metal surfaces from rust and corrosion. I use it all the time to lubricate hinges and even the base plate of my racket stringing machine.

Glue, really? Maybe if it's sprayed on a surface and left for days so dirt and other particles stick to it but even then it would be a stretch.

This is somehow worse than taking a drill or dremel to the watch?

 

Try a bit of braid fishing line (Or dental floss). Feed around spring bar twice at top pull tight then tug on a angle. This will free on side
The braid grips where the spring bar is damaged

this video will help give you the idea but you will be doing it upside down and you need to feed the braid in the little hole and around the spring bar

 

WD stands for "water displacer". That is its intended purpose... to remove water from metal surfaces.

Machinists use WD-40 to glue keys into keyways when mounting a pulley on a shaft.

It is a crappy lubricant, but you can get away with it on a door hinge. Don't ever, for example, spray it into a lock. You will regret it.

And no, it's not worse than drilling on your $4000 watch.

 

I used some WD40 over night but sprayed it into the cap and applied to the spring bar directly with an oiler so didn't get it everywhere. No joy so far but have added some more this morning and will leave it longer.

I tried the dental floss trick and tried to drill it out with a 1.5mm metal bit in a pin vise. Not sure I am brave enough to try the dremel. I'm sure I saw Al mention a wafer then saw before but can't find anything like it on cousins.

 

From the original description, it doesn't seem like corrosion is the issue or lubricant is the answer, just that the spring bar has been physically damaged?

 

Yes I think you are correct. I think someone has maybe forced in a strap spring bar when they should have used a shorter bracelet one and mangled the flange in the process.

At this rate I will take it to my local watch maker for them to take a look. It's so frustrating that it should be a 2 minute easy job and someone has still managed to butcher it. Still - I got a good deal so I have to take it on the chin.

I wonder how often a pro like Archer comes across stupid things like this.

 

Would you recommend this method for general bracelet removal? As a way of avoiding scratches...

 

At best this would only work with leather straps, not bracelets.
Suggest you learn to use a proper spring bar tool. If you're concerned tape up your lugs. Or get a professional to do it for you.

 

This is as fiddley as hell to do on a bracelet. But it would help the OP above as the braid wrapped twice grips the spring bar.
Great to use for leather and NATOs though, especially on stiff leather straps that fit tight

 

The small fork on the Bergeon 6767 is well capable of this task, especially if OP can get it in near the tip of the bar. But the flange being mangled does not help.

In any event, take it to the watchmaker!

 

The spring bar tool does catch it, but I think it has been bent went forced in. So the mangled side doesn't compress - only the nice clean side. The whole springbar shifts through the SEL and compresses the opposite side to where I am working. The shop shuts early today so it will need to wait until tomorrow.

Oddly the Omega spec sheet says that 068ST2208 is the correct spring bar for this rather than the 068ST2207. They recommend 068ST2011 for a strap looking at the document.