Speedmaster 38 (324.30, cal. 3304) - sourcing the factory diamond bezel from 324.15/324.18?

Hi all,

I'm completely new to this hobby and to the forum, so please bear with me if I'm asking something obvious or using the wrong terms.

I own a Speedmaster 38 ref. 324.30.38.40.06.001 (cal. 3304, grey dial, ceramic tachymeter bezel).

Omega also made the exact same watch with a factory diamond bezel (54 diamonds): ref. 324.18.38.40.10.001 / 324.15.38.40.10.001 (the purple dial version). As far as I can tell, case, dimensions and calibre are identical - only the bezel and dial colour differ (pictures attached, side by side).

I would love to convert my watch so it looks like the diamond version. This is a personal project, I don't plan to sell the watch.

My questions:
1. Has anyone ever sourced the original diamond bezel from the 324.15/324.18 as a spare part? Someone who works with Omega told me Omega won't supply it - is that right?
2. Can anyone confirm that the bezel from the 324.15/324.18 fits the 324.30 case 1:1?
3. Has anyone done something similar - removing the tachymeter insert and having the bezel set with stones, or having a bezel made after the original? Any recommendations for a good stone setter/watchmaker in Europe (I'm in Germany)?

Any help, experience or pointers are much appreciated. Thanks!
Maki

Answers...

1 - Omega certainly won't sell it to you, but there are no other restrctions on the parts that I can see. So a certified Omega watchmaker can order and install it for you, provided they agree to do so.

2 - No one can - the only way to know for sure is to try it. The two models use a lot of the same parts for the case so it should work, but no can tell you 100%

3 - Companies do this all the time to Rolex so I'm sure they could do it for this watch.

By the say, the Omega bezel is about 8,600 Euros...

Thanks a lot @Archer, that's really helpful - especially coming from someone who services these!

8,600 € is more than the whole watch is worth, so I'll most likely go the stone-setter route.

Two follow-up questions, if you don't mind:
1. Could you share the part number of the diamond bezel? Then my watchmaker can check the case parts against my 324.30.
2. Do you know the dimensions (especially the thickness) of the ceramic tachymeter insert on the 324.30.38.40 - and is the insert available on its own as a spare part, in case it breaks during removal?

Thanks again!
Maki

1 - Part number is 082ST2101. What is it exactly you think your watchmaker is going to check? There's no way for him/her to check to see if this will fit.

2 - No dimensions are given...this is one reason why checking if something fits from one model to another is not really possible. The insert is not sold separately, so if the insert is damaged a new bezel is required - 480 Euros to replace the whole bezel.

Omega works by part numbers, all tied to the watch reference number. There are no dimensions given and no list of cross compatibility between models.

Thanks again @Archer - that's very helpful, and good to know that a new standard bezel is available for around 480 €.

Understood on the fitment - no way to check it in advance.

Could you share the part number of the standard bezel for the 324.30.38.40.06.001 as well? Then I could order a spare one through a certified watchmaker and have the stones set on that one, keeping my original bezel untouched.

Much appreciated!
Maki

082CC2100

Perfect, thank you very much @Archer - that's exactly what I needed. Really appreciate you taking the time!

I'll post an update here once the project is done.
Maki

Hi @Archer,
first of all, thanks again - your help has been huge for a newbie like me. Having the part numbers made everything so much easier, and I really appreciate it.
Quick update: I've found a stone setter who is happy to work in steel, and a watchmaker here in Berlin who has the right tool to remove the bezel. One thing I'm unsure about before he opens it, and I hope you don't mind me asking one more time:
On the 324.30.38.40 (cal. 3304), is the crystal fitted into the bezel, or into the case middle with the bezel just pressed on separately? And is there anything we should watch out for when taking the bezel off (gasket to replace, etc.)?
Thanks a lot in advance!
Maki

I haven't serviced one of these specific models, but I've serviced a bunch of the Speedmaster date varieties, and they all have shared the same construction, so I suspect this one does also.

In all of these when you remove the bezel, the crystal comes with it. To remove the bezel you use a fixed bezel remover, like this:



Bezel and crystal come off together:



Crystal is pressed out of the bezel:



So is you are swapping bezels, you are also swapping crystals, and you will need a new crystal seal, which is 298EN5183, and there is a seal under the bezel, which is 088NS5082.

By the way, your watchmaker should be able to look all this up himself if he is Omega certified...

@Archer, thank you so much - this is incredibly helpful!
Honestly, you've saved me a lot of headaches. Without your answer we would have gone in completely unprepared - now my watchmaker knows the crystal comes off with the bezel, what tool he needs, and which seals to have ready (298EN5183 and 088NS5082) before he even opens it. The photos make it crystal clear (pun intended).
I really appreciate you taking the time again and again for a newbie like me. It's people like you who make this forum such a great place.
I'll definitely post an update with pictures once the project is done.
Thanks again,
Maki