Speedmaster 145.012-67 purchasing questions (w/photos)

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Hi all, BRAND new to OF! As you may have seen recently on another popular website, there is a 145.012-67 for sale with a NON-working reset, NON-original bracelet, and NON-original box, but WITH original papers. I'm still waiting for more information from the seller, but from what I can tell, the watch appears to be mostly original (signed 321 w/matching serial, thick B1 case, B3 step dial with spaced Ts, B1 bezel with DON etc., C2 hands with flat chrono, and A4 caseback w/matching dustcover).

What I'm less sure of are whether the crown, pushers, and glass are original; whether the aging (or lack thereof) of the dial/hands/lume is appropriate; and perhaps most importantly - whether there are any obvious issues with the movement (other than the known reset issue), or other red flags. The case also doesn't appear to be overly polished (does it?), but there is some sort of streak on the glass near 7 o'clock. The watch was also apparently serviced in 2015.

What I'm looking for help with from you all is 1) does my assessment above appear accurate? Is there anything I've missed? 2) How much do you think it could cost to repair? 3) What are the biggest strengths and weaknesses of this piece? And what would the biggest risks be in acquiring it?

Thank you in advance!

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Based on those photos, the dial looks washed, i.e. the lume is gone. If so, and you're looking for a collectible piece ... move on. The crown is not original.
 
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Based on those photos, the dial looks washed, i.e. the lume is gone. If so, and you're looking for a collectible piece ... move on. The crown is not original.

Ah yes, that makes sense. In this case, I'm looking for a good+ condition watch primarily for wearing (but still with all correct parts). What is your opinion on re-luming the dial (assuming it's done well)? How much would you de-value a washed or (well-done) re-lumed watch?

PS how can you tell the crown is not original?
 
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Ah yes, that makes sense. In this case, I'm looking for a good+ condition watch primarily for wearing (but still with all correct parts). What is your opinion on re-luming the dial (assuming it's done well)? How much would you de-value a washed or (well-done) re-lumed watch?

PS how can you tell the crown is not original?

A relumed dial can look good, if done by one of a few people in the world who know how to do it well. But it kills the value and would never be considered anywhere near Good condition. The dial is the single most important part of a watch for collectible value.

It should have a flat-foot 24-tooth crown. Study speedmaster101.com and the Moonwatch Only book for details.
 
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I've seen International Watch Works recommended (for re-luming); are there others you'd recommend?

Re: the crown, can you actually see the feet in these photos, or is it the width of the logo and/or the number of teeth that give it away? I'm a little confused by Moonwatch Only, because they indicate that the B1 crown (with 32 teeth and wide, angular feet) is also consistent with the 145.012-67; can you clarify? Thank you again,
 
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I've seen International Watch Works recommended (for re-luming); are there others you'd recommend?

Re: the crown, can you actually see the feet in these photos, or is it the width of the logo and/or the number of teeth that give it away? I'm a little confused by Moonwatch Only, because they indicate that the B1 crown (with 32 teeth and wide, angular feet) is also consistent with the 145.012-67; can you clarify? Thank you again,

I can tell it's not a flatfoot crown. A B1 crown may be correct as a service crown, but personally I'm skeptical about it being original on a -67.
 
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Oops sorry I meant B2*. But either way, if it's not flat foot, would it be a B1 or B2 service crown, or can't say without closer inspection? (It might be moot, but just trying to learn). Cheers,
 
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Oops sorry I meant B2*. But either way, if it's not flat foot, would it be a B1 or B2 service crown, or can't say without closer inspection? (It might be moot, but just trying to learn). Cheers,

I can't see the logo well enough, the photo is blurry. But honestly, I think the crown is a distraction. The dial is the main issue. You need to determine the lume situation. A crown can always be replaced ... if you even want to bother.
 
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I can't see the logo well enough, the photo is blurry. But honestly, I think the crown is a distraction. The dial is the main issue. You need to determine the lume situation. A crown can always be replaced ... if you even want to bother.

Agreed. At this point I'm assuming it's washed unless/until I could see it in person. So now I'm just trying to figure out who could do the best relume, if ultimately I'd even be happy with that, and how much to discount because of that (and the reset problem)...
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Let us also talk about the chrono hand...
The reluming shouldn't be a big deal...
The band is definitely wrong and should eventually replaced, as a cheaper alternative,
with a JB Champion vintage band, because the right band and end pieces for a 145.012-67
would be expensive and not easy to find...
Cheers
 
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Let us also talk about the chrono hand...
The reluming shouldn't be a big deal...
The band is definitely wrong and should eventually replaced, as a cheaper alternative,
with a JB Champion vintage band, because the right band and end pieces for a 145.012-67
would be expensive and not easy to find...
Cheers
Oh what did I miss re: the chrono hand?
 
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I own two 145.012-67 and one 145.012-68

1967

1967


1968
Nice! But is there something specific you are trying to show/tell me?
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Maybe someone out there would have an idea when exactly the chronology hand changed shape?

Cheers