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Something that has been bugging me for a few years now

  1. PatrickJ Apr 12, 2015

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    I realise this topic may be a bit controversial and is also subjective. I do not want to sound negative, rather I look for improvement.

    When will Omega produce or are they on track to produce a totally in house movement? Of course prices will rise as Rolex have in house movements and high prices. Of course Rolex are more evolutionary than revolutionary and tend to have less product lines and greater model longevity. There was an article I read recently where the current head of Omega product development admitted, that Omega are moving towards having in house manufactured movements. However, it would be dangerous to call the 8500 totally an in house movement as it is assembled and part designed by Omega. There is of course input from other manufacturers such as ETA and Niranox.

    It saddens me that IWC, JLC and Rolex are in house, why are Omega different? I remember as a kid my uncle showing me his Omega, then I was hooked. In 2004 I purchased a Seamaster unfortunately selling it a few years later, now I have a vintage Seamaster and a Geneve. One of the reasons I love vintage is that they all had Omega in house movements, from a time when virtually all Swiss watch companies had this benefit.
     
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  2. dsio Ash @ ΩF Staff Member Apr 12, 2015

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    Thing is its not other manufacturers, ETA and Nivarox are owned by Swatch, if they duplicated their efforts for no reason other than to say this movement was produced in this building we own rather than this other building we own they would be idiots.

    Then we get to the other elephant in the room, Lemania. The era of your vintage Seamaster and Geneve was one of the exact same occurance. Omega didn't make the 321, or the 33.3, or the 861, or the 1861 or the triple date moonphase movement among others. Lemania did, and not only that but in many cases Lemania assembled the entire watch, Omega didn't even touch it.

    Now, of course Lemania was owned by SSIH, as were Omega and Tissot, so the same deal applies.

    The reality is if someone asks of the 8500 / 9300 are in-house movements, I answer yes, because they are for all intents and purposes. They're exclusive to Omega, were designed solely for Omega, and ETA / Nivarox are part of the same company, so it makes no sense to split hairs over which exact workshop the company made what in.
     
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  3. PatrickJ Apr 12, 2015

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    The 8500/9300 as you say have been designed for Omega only. They are assembled in the Omega factory only. In a 2007 press statement Omega called them in house. However, the current head of product development Jean - Claude Monachon stated it would be dangerous to say the movement is totally in house. Who can blame him? If these guys are not cautious in the statements they make it could backfire. On the flip side a 1120 cal is essentially a 2892 ETA with some upgrades. The 8500 is different as the movements were designed around the co axle and not the other way round, no other Swatch Group company has this technology apart from Omega. So this further supports the view point the 8500 is in house. This is a strange subject as we have manufacturing issues and economies of scale to consider also.
     
  4. dsio Ash @ ΩF Staff Member Apr 12, 2015

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    Where it gets interesting is if you dig a little deeper into other brands. Patek Philippe's flagship watch for many years was the 5970, Patek do make in house movements, but that watch wasn't, its based on a Lemania 2310 AKA Omega Calibre 321.

    Audemars Piguet's flagship sports watch, the Royal Oak Jumbo? Well it uses a Jaeger LeCoultre Calibre 2121. The cheaper 15300/15400 models have the AP in-house movement but the much more expensive 15202 still uses the JLC movement.

    IWC have a few nice in-house movements but they've been paying their bills with expensive ETA powered models for ages.

    Rolex is one of the strangest. Rolex SA in Geneve for 70+ years until 2004 bought all of their movements off Aegler SA in Bienne. Rolex owned shares in Aegler but didn't own the whole company, it was still a third party. In 2004 Rolex bought the remaining shares but it remained a separate company in Bienne. Rolex also bought Beyeler & Cie SA, Gay Freres SA, Rolex Industrie SA and many others who are now wholly owned subsidiaries of the group. The fact remains though, as of 2015, the manufacture in Bienne is still a separate company called Manufacture des Montres Rolex SA owned by Rolex SA:

    http://www.bloomberg.com/research/stocks/private/snapshot.asp?privcapId=22863906

    So is in group good enough to count as in-house? At the end of the day its not a big deal, the corporate structure and building locations matter less than the end result. Its just all grey areas upon grey areas and you can create rules and draw lines in the sand all day and not get anywhere in determining what is and what isn't.
     
  5. watchyouwant ΩF Clairvoyant Apr 12, 2015

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    you open a can of worms....... I don`t even want to know, how many parts in the in-house movements from other companies, you mentioned before, are made in china now. who would ever know with parts? what I know, is that many obsolete spareparts from very expensive watchbrands are copied in china now. again: who would ever know? kind regards. achim
     
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  6. PatrickJ Apr 12, 2015

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    You guys, you guys, you guys!!!! You know your stuff, this has completely changed my understanding and perception. Rolex buying movements from Aegler SA in Bienne, only in 2004 they buy the who company. Did I read this correct? They market themselves as being totally in house standing head and shoulders above the others with JLC.
     
  7. dsio Ash @ ΩF Staff Member Apr 12, 2015

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    Well, they had an exclusive arrangement with Aegler SA since the 1930s and the factory was in fact renamed Manufacture des Montres Rolex around that time, however Rolex did not own their own movement manufacture until they decided to make it happen and buy it out in 2004.

    Excellent article on Timezone surrounding the detail, and the Gruen connection here: http://www.timezone.com/2012/12/13/the-rolex-factory-in-bienne-by-james-dowling/
     
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  8. PatrickJ Apr 12, 2015

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    Your right who knows, it must be well hidden with expensive brands. In much cheaper brands like Victorianox you open the case back it says cased in Hong Kong. Expensive brands could even source tiny parts from the far east. Who knows.
     
  9. PatrickJ Apr 12, 2015

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    I am in shock. I thought they apart from a few small parts manufactured everything. LOOOOOL
     
  10. PatrickJ Apr 12, 2015

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    Mr Ash Dsio your feedback and continued feedback is much appreciated. You are one knowledgeable fellow, no doubt.

    ANY OTHER FEEDBACK FROM OTHER MEMBERS?
     
  11. ulackfocus Apr 12, 2015

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    Small nit to pick: it's the 92x from JLC. AP calls it the 2120 as a non-date and a 2121 with a date feature. And technically, it is in-house for AP now since they own the rights to it entirely. As part of the deal to sell their interest in JLC to Richemont, AP got all the tooling, blueprints, and rights to that caliber.
     
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  12. ulackfocus Apr 12, 2015

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    Also, the watch industry has always relied on outsourced parts even when everything was made in Switzerland. The Swiss farmers worked the fields in the warmer months, and specialized in making specific watch parts in the winter by agreement with certain brands.
     
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  13. PatrickJ Apr 12, 2015

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    So would for example a 600, 611 or 565 cal from the 1960s shall we say has more Omega DNA than a cal 1120 (ETA 2892) for example? It could be said the 1960s calibres were designed for Omega only (or at least I think they were?)

    Not sure. I have learned more in the last two hours than the last two years.
     
  14. MikiJ Likes songs about Purple spices Apr 12, 2015

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    I believe that Patek's 5070 and Vacheron's Les Historiques chrono share the same Lemania 2310 aka Omega cal.321.
     
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  15. CanberraOmega Rabbitohs and Whisky Supporter Apr 12, 2015

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    No, we are quite happy to let the experts contribute. HOwever, like others, I am really enjoying reading this.
     
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  16. PatrickJ Apr 12, 2015

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    Me too, I am a novice. But have learned a lot in the last few hours.
     
  17. Civic4982 Apr 12, 2015

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    So long as movements run and are reliable I haven't any need for specific in house movements. More shared movements allows for more shared parts and more spare parts for the future :)
     
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  18. Nobel Prize Spell Master! Apr 12, 2015

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    I think it's deceiving. Rolex does have an all in house movement, wether they decided to buy that house rather than have a n exclusive agreement is irrelevant. Basically they found what they thought was the best house, or the best they could afford, and appropriated it. Whether you are hiring an individual like Genta, or buying a whole business it is still yours. The names will often remain different for the same reasons we layer LLC"s within a single business, it is the smart thing to do so no single piece of the ship can sink it.

    As for Eta it is the opposite case. In a way Omega is owned by ETA, or by the same house that owns ETA. So it is not as much about wether Omega will have an in house movement but wether a specific movement will be assigned to a specific brand and model within the larger group.

    Even though some would think this implies a lower prestige or quality it is not so, in fact ETA has or may have way more resources for advancement and quality than any single house, which explains why other great houses like Rolex are much more cautious and careful on movement advances than ETA is. Also as long as it is done with care you have a better chance of getting great results diversifying your research and production. That is, get the best movement you can, for the best case you can get, with the best ceramic or Metal alloy etc etc... What you may loose is an identity core that many purists may confuse with quality. But you can have a great identity and be stuck in the past. This is what scares me when too many lines appear at once that are a little gimmicky, very Swatch . But swatch makes good watches and saved the industry.

    ETA has great, reliable, top of the line consistent movements, which is why I never mind if Cartier or Panerai or Omega uses ETA. I will always respect the artisanal approach of some brands, but I don't necessarily see it as a warranty of quality.
     
    Edited Apr 12, 2015
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  19. PatrickJ Apr 12, 2015

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    So the 8500 is turning out to be a great movement, but it needs to be exclusive to Omega and not be handed down to other Swatch group companies in the future.

    Rolex even though they have used Aegler SA have only had total control from 2004, so when the 3135 came along in 1988 it was designed for Rolex by Aegler. At that time it was not in house as Rolex did not have total control, in a shape or form they had been reliant on Aegler.This leads me to believe I could be wrong, Rolex has only been in house from 2004 when they took total control of Aegler.

    Mind you for the main part Rolex's quality, product continuity and credibility is assured that no one can argue with.
     
  20. PatrickJ Apr 12, 2015

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    Appreciate the point Rolex had taken control of Aegler, it was the reverse for Omega as Swatch took control of them.
     
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