Solid end links removal for vintage hacker…

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M'Bob

·Sun. 6:55am

I’ve finally gotten around to unboxing my Heritage 300 Seamaster from a few years back. I’m used to removing flimsy, stamped end-links on old 7912/1035 bracelets.

So my question:. Those of you who have played with removing solid end-links, and putting cost aside for the moment: better done with a standard spring bar tool, or with spring bar tweezers? I know this has been discussed, but always like to hear if opinions change over time from added experience.

Edited: Sun. 10:54am

 

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blufinz52

·Sun. 7:34am·Hears dead people, not watch rotors.

I've had the best results with the Bergeron 7825 spring bar tweezers.

 

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JimInOz

·Sun. 7:34am·Melbourne Australia

I've found a decent springbar tool is adequate.
Separate the bracelet at the clasp.
Place the watch at about a 45º angle with the end link sitting on a clean chunk of Rodico.
Press down gently on the case and release one side of the springbar, maintain downward pressure and do the other side.

Others may have suggestions, this is just what I've done.

Good luck with it.

 

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Donn Chambers

·Sun. 7:58am

I have no issues changing the bracelet on my Seamaster 300 heritage with a standard spring bar tool (I use one of the Omega-branded ones). I had the pricey Bergeron 7825 spring bar tweezers but found them more difficult to use, not less. So I sold them.

 

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josiahg52

·Sun. 9:17am

I've used the Bergeon 6767-F and 6767-S for everything - straps, solid, stamped, etc. - for decades with no problems.

 

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502 to right

·Sun. 2:31pm

Standard quality springbars should work. I bought a Bergeon 6767-F several years ago and it's going strong today after literally hundreds of strap and bracelet changes.

 

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ErichPryde

·Sun. 6:46pm

josiahg52

I've used the Bergeon 6767-F and 6767-S for everything - straps, solid, stamped, etc. - for decades with no problems.

My tool of choice as well.