Should I keep this $24,000 Explorer II 1655 from Tourneau?

I bought this online from Tourneau and it shipped from the Bucherer TimeMachine watch shop in NYC. It was listed for $28,000 and they were running a promo for 20% off so with NC tax $24,024.


First posts are always suspicious so note that I have no intention of trying to sell this watch to anyone.


Wanting some expert eyes to see if anyone notices anything as I'm hoping it was well vetted by such a large brand but would love opinions. I've seen some really helpful posts by PitPro and others here so I wanted to post here as my normal, albeit sporadic history, is mostly over on Watchuseek.


Details: This is a Mk1 dial with what I believe is a MKII bezel. Serial number is in the 3,2m range. Bracelet appears to be an almost new 78360 with 580 end links. The lugs and crown guards appear to be in fairly good shape and reasonably thick. The side case beveling is barely noticeable but also doesn't appear to be polished away necessarily. Case in decent vintage shape. The bezel numerals have been filled in at some point but looks to be a reasonably decent job. The 24 hour hand border is faded completely white while the hour and minute hands have a slightly yellowed. Very even patina throughout the dial and the dial itself seems to be in excellent condition. Under magnification it has a light texture to it.


Any help or opinions on the watch and original hands/dial etc. would be much appreciated as I have two weeks to keep it or return it. I've been looking for one of these for a while and from my research this appeared to be priced well but opinions welcome.


It's my first entry into vintage Rolex and I kind of went big so juuuuust a tad nervous. Did as much homework as I could. Will probably post on Rolex forum and Watchuseek as well.

Harsh lighting in photos makes look worse for every ding and scratch. On wrist was a bit better than expected.

Appreciate the reply. Was hoping to get good thoughts on this from folks like you and @pitpro @Marsimaxam and others I've seen write some really good posts on the 1655. I've done a ton of reading but extremely limited on my expertise here.

Service crown. I'd like to see the clasp.

A photo of the crown is enough.

The clasp and bracelet look almost new. Definitely a later 78360 bracelet.

Yeah, 80s and 90s crown.

That price with that dial? Absolutely a big no for me. I have had a few 1655's and even the rough ones had much better dials. That would end the inquiry for me. And that doesn't even start with the other issues. Candidly, even at a lower price I would pass on that one. Sorry-just being honest. Good luck whatever you do.

Appreciate the insight. That is a beautiful watch.

No need for the sorry, happy to have the opinion.

16k for the op's watch? ☕

On the other hand, the 16550 is more useful than the 1655.

Is it artifacting from the camera and relatively low light that makes the lettering all look hand-written? Or is that a "Feature" of the MK1 dial?

It's a domed acrylic crystal and the angle of the photo causing that. Under magnification (10x jeweler loupe) it's exactly as crisp as some detailed images of other dials for this model I referenced. The dial is in really good shape. The hands have extensive patina obviously.

Agree on discount to mean. Mean is $28k-$30k. Good examples getting crazy high. Thinking this maybe more in the $20k range.

I missed that comment at first. Yeah, it's hard for me to tell as I haven't seen others in person before. My initial thought was that I didn't mind the patina and knowing Submariners with "tropical" dials are highly valued so initially didn't see the hands as a huge issue. Dial seems decent but that's "decent" to me who hasn't held another one.

And by the way, this discussion is waaaaay more civil than my same thread over at Watchuseek. I posted over there where my history is for as much insight into this large purchase as possible but saw so many helpful 1655 posts here I created an account to post. Thank you all for polite, helpful opinions.

I agree with the general consensus, you could have done a lot better considering how much you paid for the 1655. The watch in my opinion is authentic, but, far too many issues. The dial is unattractive as are the hands. It is not uncommon for the orange hand to fade to white, also known as an "albino". Hopefully, you will be able to return the watch and find another.

By the way, ATWG, a beautiful example of an early reference 1655.