Servicing my inherited Omega gold watch

[jkej]

So my dad passed away 10 years ago and I inherited my grandfather's Omega gold watch. It's nothing spectacular, but it means a lot to me. I've been meaning to try to restore some of it's former glory, but I just haven't gotten around to it until now.

A friend of me who collects other types of watches recommended two watchmakers, one local and one in a different city, which could service the watch for me. I was planning to go to the local one for a first consultation, but then I found these forums and thought I might ask for some advice here first so that I would know more of what I'm taking about.

The only things I know about the watch is that it's 18K gold and probably made around 1969. The outer diameter is 32 mm and the distance between the lugs is 18 mm. There's an inscription on the back side saying my grandfather received the watch after working 35 years at the cement plant (probably bad for resell value, but it adds a lot of sentimental value to me). I think neither my grandfather nor my dad used it much, but my dad stored it quite carelessly for a long time. There's a lot of grime stuck in the corners and some scratches on the crystal which I think is from being shoved around together with other stuff in a box or drawer for many years. The movement is currently not working. The crown can be wound endlessly, so I suspect that the spring may be broken. I know my dad replaced the strap and he might have replaced the crystal at some point, but I'm not sure about that.

My goal is to restore the watch to a working and clean condition so that I can wear it together with a suit on special occasions. I will probably replace the strap again. Here are some things I would like to get advice about:
* How picky should I be about the watchmaker? Is it fine with a generalist, or do I need an Omega specialist?
* What might the original strap have looked like?
* Would a clock like this originally have come with a matching buckle that my father lost when he replaced the strap? Should I try to find a new matching buckle and how would I do that?
* How do I get the grime off? Should I do that myself, or should I leave it to a professional?
* Should I do anything about the scratches in the crystal? Should I replace it?
* Should I polish the gold surface or will I damage it?

I would also be very thankful for any additional information you could tell me about the watch.

 

[SkunkPrince]

The original strap would have been similar to what you have now.

You have choices depending on your goals. But first... do nothing youself. You are not an expert.

You do need a specialist in the sense of what to do and not do to a vintage Omega watch. You can choose factory authorized service, which will result in a watch that looks new, or you could go the complete opposite direction where the minimum changes are made to keep it as you see it today.

Somewhere in the middle, the movement is cleaned and lubricated, the crystal and crown are replaced for water resistance reasons, and the case is cleaned but not mechanically polished. In the wrong hands, mechanically-polished watches can end up looking like a melted stick of butter, and no one wants that. Your watch case is shockingly clean, and the use of a rouge cloth will brighten the gold and remove some of the microscratches without compromising the sharp edges of the case.

We all have favorite watchmakers we use that know how to treat a watch of this age, especially one with the sentimental value this one has. If you tell us where you are, we can suggest where you go.

Good luck and wear your grandfather's watch with pride!

 

[Dan S]

J jkej

My goal is to restore the watch to a working and clean condition so that I can wear it together with a suit on special occasions. I will probably replace the strap again. Here are some things I would like to get advice about:
* How picky should I be about the watchmaker? Is it fine with a generalist, or do I need an Omega specialist?
* What might the original strap have looked like?
* Would a clock like this originally have come with a matching buckle that my father lost when he replaced the strap? Should I try to find a new matching buckle and how would I do that?
* How do I get the grime off? Should I do that myself, or should I leave it to a professional?
* Should I do anything about the scratches in the crystal? Should I replace it?
* Should I polish the gold surface or will I damage it?

That watch is absolutely lovely, and in great condition. In your place, I would focus only on the movement and do the absolute minimum with respect to cosmetic issues. It's in fantastic shape for its age.

- A good watchmaker who is experienced with vintage watches will be fine, there is no need for an Omega specialist IMO.
- You can google vintage Omega advertising or brochures to find photos of watches with the original straps. Usually flat leather of some type.
- Vintage Omega buckles are a whole area of collecting unto themselves; 95% of the one you find are fake. I wouldn't bother, but it's a matter of personal preference.
- The watchmaker will clean the case ultrasonically once the movement is removed.
- The scratches on the crystal can be removed by polishing. You can do it yourself by hand using plastic polish, or leave it to the watchmaker if he's willing. The crystal can also be replaced at a modest cost.
- Personally I would not tamper with that beautiful case. Superficial scratches could possibly be removed by careful polishing, but you really want to avoid losing the original sharp edges of the case, which is all too easy to do with a soft metal. Once done, it can't be undone, so personally I would be very clear to the watchmaker - no polishing.

Edited: Feb 5, 2022

 

[DaveK]

Welcome to the forum, and congrats on this wonderful heirloom. Congratulations also on taking excellent photos. Hirsh makes great quality straps and many watchmakers carry that brand. The watchmaker can likely suggest a buckle with a period-correct look

 

[SkunkPrince]

DaveK

The watchmaker can likely suggest a buckle with a period-correct look

The modern buckles would also suit this watch well and you can now buy straps with 18K buckles directly from Omega's website, if that is something you're interested in.

 

[AlanTheBeast]

J jkej

* Should I polish the gold surface or will I damage it?

IMO don't. That patina is its history of wear by your g'father and father.

 

[MikiJ]

Dan S

- Personally I would not tamper with that beautiful case. Superficial scratches could possibly be removed by careful polishing, but you really want to avoid losing the original sharp edges of the case, which is all too easy to do with a soft metal. Once done, it can't be undone, so personally I would be very clear to the watchmaker - no polishing.

Please - Do Not Polish - Period!

 

[Donn Chambers]

If your friend has used the local watchmaker and recommends him, then I’m sure he is more than competent enough to work on this movement — it’s not an overly complicated one. Assuming no major parts need to be replaced (other than the spring), then an overhaul should be straightforward. When the watchmaker cleans the case, he should be able to get rid of that grime for you.

 

[jkej]

Thanks everyone for your advice and encouragement!

So it sounds like I should avoid polishing. I'll ask the watchmaker to clean the case when I have the movement serviced.

I was wondering particularly about the brown stripe where the crystal meets the case. It looks so even, so I thought it might be an old adhesive or something holding the crystal in place. But maybe that is not something that's used. Will this come off during the watchmaker's normal cleaning even if the crystal is kept in place?

I think the issue that might be hardest for me to decide is what to do about the scratches on the crystal. Leave them as they are, have it replaced, or polished. What would you have done?

 

[SkunkPrince]

J jkej

I think the issue that might be hardest for me to decide is what to do about the scratches on the crystal. Leave them as they are, have it replaced, or polished. What would you have done?

I definitely replace. It was never intended to be saved and you can get an identical replacement. Not only does it help with water resistance, but they get weaker as they get older.

That is just dirt and other crud on your existing crystal. But trust me... it is not special. It's not even genuine Omega. The only ones worth trying to save are the early 40s and some 50s. I tried to save one. It disintegrated when the watchmaker tried to remove it.

And feel free to use a rouge cloth on the case if you want the gold to shine. Some think tarnish is sacred. You need not if you do not want to. A lot of it might disappear anyways when the case is ultrasonically cleaned.

 

[Syrte]

Welcome to the forum, nice to see you want to restore this precious keepsake.
While collectors like to keep most everything untouched and intact,
no one will tell you to keep scratches on a crystal - except in very rare and unusual circumstances of a historic watch which has seen battle or had a famous owner and it's become like some sort of a myth.

 

[Dan S]

Replace or polish the crystal, either is fine.

 

[mac_omega]

I would keep the crystal as it has a nice shape (flat dome) - just have the scratches removed and polished afterwards, every competent watchmaker will do this for little costs, its an easy fix for him...

 

[jkej]

Okay, good to learn that the crystal seems to be considered a "less sacred" part of the watch. Still, part of me wants to keep as much of the original watch as possible for sentimental reasons. I guess you could say that my dad and grandfather are the "famous owners" in my mind. But I'll have to balance that with my desire to have a beautiful watch. And as I said, I have this vague notion that my dad may have already replaced the crystal once. After reading your answers, I think I'm leaning towards at least having the crystal polished.

Thanks again!

 

[jkej]

mac_omega

I would keep the crystal as it has a nice shape (flat dome) - just have the scratches removed and polished afterwards, every competent watchmaker will do this for little costs, its an easy fix for him...

What does "have the scratches removed" refer to? Grinding off a thin layer from the outer surface of the crystal? What would they use to do that?

 

[SkunkPrince]

J jkej

And as I said, I have this vague notion that my dad may have already replaced the crystal once.

Almost guaranteed. Omega crystals have a tiny symbol in the exact center, and I didn't see one in your pictures.

 

[mac_omega]

J jkej

What does "have the scratches removed" refer to? Grinding off a thin layer from the outer surface of the crystal? What would they use to do that?

They use very fine grain sanding paper to remove the scratches and polish the crystal afterwards - will shine like new...
Don´t be afraid that the crystal will be too thin afterwards - there is plenty of material to keep the crystal stable, only a thin layer willbe removed.

 

[amcclell]

They will use a fine polishing compound that works just like scratch remover on a car. It removes a tiny amount of material and polishes at the same time. You can google Polywatch.

 

[MRC]

J jkej

What does "have the scratches removed" refer to? Grinding off a thin layer from the outer surface of the crystal? What would they use to do that?

The material used for older crystals is relatively soft so it's easy to scratch but also easy to get the scratches out. So most people who regularly wear watches with this "hesalite" material is used to the routine of getting the lighter scratches out every few years. Deeper scratches need someone experienced with progressively finer grades of sandpaper, which would be your watchmaker.

There is a commercial product called Polywatch that many recommend, some use toothpaste, my choice is supermarket silver polishing wadding sold as "Brasso". Takes a bit longer than Polywatch but that's bonding time with the watch Brasso will improve the state of a bracelet at the same time if the watch has one. This only applies to stainless steel, I don't go near gold-plated watches, bracelets or buckles with this stuff -- might be alright lightly used, might not. But then I only have one gold-plated watch and wear it infrequently.

 

[jkej]

SkunkPrince

Almost guaranteed. Omega crystals have a tiny symbol in the exact center, and I didn't see one in your pictures.

Okay, good to know. So if I were to replace the crystal, could I get a new genuine Omega crystal with the correct symbol, or don't they make them for my type of watch anymore? Then I could perhaps argue (to myself) that I'm actually bringing it closer to it's original form.

On a different note, you mentioned in your first answer that I shouldn't do anything myself. I will definitely not try to service the watch myself, and now I know that I should avoid polishing it too, but how far should I take this? Can I replace the strap myself? Can I do some very light cleaning once in a while, like wiping off fingerprints with a piece of soft cloth?

These may seem like stupid questions, but I've never really handled anything like this before and I want to make sure that I develop good habits so that I can keep it in a good condition for many years in the future.

Edited: Feb 6, 2022