I usually publish in my own portal, but this time I thought I'd share here, as the serviced watch is Omega This model has nice caseback, where the o-ring goes. The fittings and stem have little bit of corrosion. Worn crystal always gives worse impression. Even though there's some wear on the dial, to me it gives watch more character. Under the dial the movement looks to be in decent shape. This time the balance and its jewels are in good condition. the going train has little bit trouble and the reason is in the jewels. I like to use these round movement holders, as these provide sturdy platform and there's no worry about twitching the movement over. Keyless works off.. These are fine. the crown wheel. good thinking from Omega to put that shim under the wheel. At some point at this watch's history watchmonster has been beating upper barrel pivot hole smaller. - What a whack job. going train. Also above barrel bridge there's some visible markings. Luckily these won't affect to the going train, as barrel revolves around its arbor. New jewel arrived, had to replace 5 of them. New lower 2nd. About to put new upper 2nd. Good fit. New upper 3rd & 4th. Also changed lower 3rd. Finally checking the end shakes. Pivots are polished before cleaning cycle. Cleaning business. Nice shine on the mainplate. Ready to be assembled. This time I started with barrel. New Mainspring in. Balance shock jewels back in. Stem.. Going train back.. Bridges.. At this point I put back keyless works to be able to test going train backlash. The very first twitch of the escape wheel comes from me placing my finger to the crown. I wind one click and immediately release the crown. Can you tell, when the backlash begins? Pallet back to the movement. 9415 to the exit pallet. Nice initial readings. At the timegrapher, the lift angle is wrong. To this caliber the correct lift angle is 49 degrees. One degree mismatch in the timegrapher lift angle means 6 degree mismatch in amplitude. So 18 degrees needs to substracted from the reading. Light polish to the case and ultrasonic cleaning. Missing dial washer back in. Dial back on. One of the nicest watch I've met.
Now I know what a real service should be. I suppose you also put few oil drops before finishing your job, right?
Bookmarked. I do not know all of the terms., but I will use this as a ref. to find out over time. Thank you for taking the time for this.
I didn't take specific pictures of replacing jewels in this particular service. Are you interested of the technique? I assume you mean throughout this service? Yes I try to use oils so that torque the pivot is facing will have matching kinematic viscosity oil so that oils are adequate but not cause unnecessary friction. High torque: hp1300 on Barrel, 2nd & 3rd wheel pivots. less torque: 9020 on 4th wheel pivots. small torque: 9010 on escape & balance pivots. As said, very little 9415 on pallet. Modern mainsprings have teflon coat on them, so MS doesn't need to be lubricated unless automatic which needs braking grease. With hp1300 I use little bit grease on keyless works. I am watchtinkerer myself, started less than 2 years ago.
With friction fitted jewels, this is about as easy as anything gets in watchmaking. Bezel set or "rubbed in " jewels are another matter. A quick example if what is involved...this on a Valjoux 7750 that was a 17 jewel version, and the bushing for the minute recorder runner was worn oblong. This pivot is not lubricated, so the use of a bushing here is prone to wear. This video shows the play between the pivot and the bushing: Here is the bridge with the subject bushing: Using a Horia jewelling tool shown here - it is by far the best jewelling tool out there, and Use it for many things besides removing, installing, and adjusting jewels: You select the right anvil and pump pusher, the bushing is pressed out: I upgraded to a jewel in this case, so old worn bushing, and the new jewel: Now it's just a matter of flipping the bridge over, lining the jewel up in the Horia tool, and pressing it in place - here the new jewel is installed: Of course there is more to it than what I can show in photos. The end shake must be checked and adjusted as needed, and if you check the depth of the old jewel before removing it, and set the new jewel at the same depth, it will be fine when you press the new jewel in place provided the end shake was correct to begin with. Here is the watch: Cheers, Al
that's great. thank you . i wish i can do my own servicing but fear i could cause more harm than benefit! well done