There's a good bit of info on SCWF and WristSushi if you want to go ferreting. There are lots of aftermarket parts out there which blur the line between "useful because you can't get originals any more, without paying $$$" (like crystals) and "made to look like the real thing but not", like dials, bezels, chapter rings etc.
Most obviously, most of the fake dials have fairly pronounced concentric circles in the subdial, and the originals just don't. If the reference on the dial (number on the lower right) ends in R then the 1 in the subdial should have a serif, and if ending in T then it shouldn't.
PROOF POGUES
Also, if the dial says 70M PROOF then the watch should date from early 69 to late 70, (ie the first digit of the serial # would be 9 or 0, the 2nd is the month in the year), the caseback should be ideally be a horseshoe with WATERPOOF on the right side and there should be a notch on the front of the case above the crown …
View attachment 726301
… and the chrono hand should be 2-part
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vs 1-part, below, and the movement will be a 6139A rather than 6139B.
View attachment 726303
RESIST POGUES
If the dial says 70M RESIST, then it should date from late 70 to mid 72, most probably won't have a notched case and will probably say WATER RESIST or, later, RESISTANT (rather than PROOF) on the case back. There might be some early RESIST dials fitted to notch case, 6139A movement watches so don't be too harsh if everything else checks out.
You see lots of supposedly all-original Pogues with fake 70M RESIST dials, 1976/77 serial numbers and aftermarket bezels (look at the 140 - the horizontal stroke of the 4 should almost be touching the 0 and the marker above should end between the 1 and the 4 not above the 140; if the marker under 250 reaches the end of the 2 then it's dodgy too). Approach with caution and with a bit of practice your spidey sense will spot most fakes a mile off.
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