Seiko 7A38A - Things you don't want to find.

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I'm servicing a lovely little Seiko 7A38A-7110 "Speedmaster" for a fellow member.
From a distance, the watch looked very nice, but closer inspection made me think that this watch had spent a long time in a hostile environment, possibly close to the sea.

Bracelet was removed and the case was given a good clean with pegwood and a stiff brush so that no foreign matter would pollute the movement.
However, after opening and removing the movement and pushers, I needn't have bothered. The pusher on the left does not have any lube on it, just H2O.



Pusher seals had ceased to function as designed and the result was the reason the watch didn't work, the "chrono start" switch lever was frozen solid with rust.
馃槵



Some cleaning and treatment with Bergeon Rust Remover and I think it'll be fine.



Hopefully no more surprises.
 
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I've done lots of 7A's and yep, the pusher seals are not good and have often let water in. Which is a shame as they are a lovely movement to work on, probably my favourite quartz. Metal wheels abound rather than the more recent plastic rubbish; it is built to a high standard. About the last Seiko quartz that was designed by the engineers and not by the accountants.
That's a good save on the spring, looks like that one will be fine for a good while yet.
Semi interesting fact - the 7Axx movement, released in late 1983, was the world's first all quartz analogue chrono. Prior to that, analogue quartz watches with a chrono had a mechanical chrono bolted on top of a quartz movement!
 
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Not bad for a 41 year old quartz movement.
馃槈

I think I'll take it up a notch to get a + output.

 
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I think this is as close I'd like to go.
Still "losing time", but the next notch up on the rotary step switch takes it to +2.3 SPM.

 
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You know when you do something and think to yourself "yep, that's OK".
And then when you've walked away to do something else, you think "no, bugger it, it's not quite OK".

I'm happy now, I'm going to reward myself with a black'n'tan.

 
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Nice post. I鈥檓 not a big quartz watch guy but I have a soft spot for the 7A38. Like @Pip says, well engineered (or over-engineered).
 
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How are you advancing the timing? There is an adjustment?
There is an adjustment on the movement. See the below image. RIGHT above where it says 7A38A there is a little adjustment.

 
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I've serviced just one 7a28 and it's a well sorted out movement that is easy in every respect, except for seating the main bridge over 7 pivots. That took me about an hour of frustration before it dropped into place.
 
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except for seating the main bridge over 7 pivots.
I know what you mean! I've done a few now and know that if it's getting annoying, take a break.
I use a fine copper wire with a tiny bend at the end so I can get under the bridge to manipulate the wheels, mainly the damn little rotor.

On this one after about four tries I walked away for a bit, came back and as I started again, I bumped the bridge with my finger and it fell onto the pivots 馃槻.

I very gently held it down with a probe while I used my other hand to pick up screws and insert them, turning them in with the tweezers until I could release the probe and use a screwdriver.
 
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I know what you mean! I've done a few now and know that if it's getting annoying, take a break.
I use a fine copper wire with a tiny bend at the end so I can get under the bridge to manipulate the wheels, mainly the damn little rotor.

On this one after about four tries I walked away for a bit, came back and as I started again, I bumped the bridge with my finger and it fell onto the pivots 馃槻.

I very gently held it down with a probe while I used my other hand to pick up screws and insert them, turning them in with the tweezers until I could release the probe and use a screwdriver.
These can be tough - quartz are worse because the rotor always wants to pull to one side on you. This one was a treat...



10 pivots, including 3 rotors, plus 4 posts...all on one bridge.