I’m looking for a vintage watch, pre-1983, that I can wear ALL day long, ANY day: at work (I work in a suit, formal office), beach, swimming, housework (painting, hammering), night clubs, you name it.

It needs to be a reasonably fine watch (budget up to $20k, preferably under $10k) but not too showy and obviously rugged to run a lifetime and more.

The best I can think of is a Rolex Sea Dweller. But I’m not a Rolex guy...

Any suggestions welcome...!

 

Honestly ... Unless you have it serviced and pressure tested ... pre 1983 is a tough call. I'd say an oyster case is your best bet. Were I you, I'd spring for a new watch. Many more choices.

 

I don't think there's one watch that you can wear anywhere. Just like there's no shoes you can wear to a formal office with a suit, or to a beach, or painting. But it should be easy enough to pick one dress watch and one sports/casual watch within that budget. I have reservations about wearing any watch while hammering, unless maybe a throwaway quartz.

 

Based on your sizable budget, and you'll be at the top end, why not a S.S. Patek Nautilus 3700?
Having worn a Nautilus for a couple of decades, wear it in the ocean then to the club later on.
Not to mention there's always something special about putting a Patek on your wrist every morning

 

Woops, 3700s are thru the roof. Maybe look at a 3800 Nautilus. That's the version I had.
My wife and I wore two-tone versions, but all stainless would have been better.
Just be careful with the split-stem when adjusting time or date. You can pull it out

 

You can go for a GMT Master, have it serviced and pressure tested, it should hold up fine. I'd hope that a 16750 with a faded black bezel would do surface diving without too much trouble, and it would look amazing but understated enough for an office!
Obviously it would be riskier than a more modern piece.

Alternatives could be Tudor Subs from the 1970s/1980s with a blue dial, or a 1665 SD as you pointed out.

 

Just become “a Rolex guy” and get it over with.

 

I got my moniker from a certain squirrel for being a bit too forceful with that recco. However ... I agree!

 

+1 to the Nautilus recommendation FWIW

 

Vintage Blancpain fifty fathoms

 

IWC Ingenieur

 

I'd buy two, one vintage watch of your choice for most wear, and one modern diver to handle the swimming / painting / hammering etc. You could get a decent modern diver for as little as 2-3k (Longines Legend Diver, Tudor Black Bay) or go higher with a Seamaster in the 3-4k range, new Sub etc. then spend the difference on a cool old vintage watch, a very nice selection of which could be had with the 12-18k you'd have left over.

 

As much as it pains me to say it, a 36mm Explorer might be good. It's thin enough to easily go under a cuff. An Oyster Perpetual might be a little more formal (no numerals on the dial).

The 14270 came out in 1989. Or you could go with the 1016 which is really cool in my opinion. I've not been a Rolex guy so far. I'm trying to decide if Rolex is really that good or just that good at marketing?

 

Submariner 5513.

 

explorer 2 its tough

 

Certina DS Automatic. Find a top specimen with a GF bracelet and you have a winner. And you won't bump into many others who have one.


I am deadly serious.

 

When I started getting interested in watches, I couldn’t see myself wearing a Rolex. But that opinion wasn’t informed and was out of pure ignorance. I found that out, when I purchased a 14060m after slowly warming to Rolex over a years time

 

300mc. Vintage looks modern reliability, can be dressed up as much as a Sub. If you do international business the Spectre variant with “gmt” bezel.

80’s or earlier and want to make sure it’s water tight... I’d not do it, even a sub but if I did it would be a Diver with a screw down crown and no Chrono.