Seamaster issue

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I picked up a Semaster (new to me, but it is a used watch) that was serviced back on 1/22/2021 per the watch shop slip. It is a 2255.80/ PlanPro model with a 1120 movement. the watch was originally sold back in 2004.

On the service slip, it says that the amplitude was 301, the accuracy was +2 seconds/24 hours. No note of beat error or lift angle though.

When I got the watch yesterday, I placed it on my Timegrapher, and below are the results that I saw. Should I be concerned?

Also, I don't know what the correct lift angle is so I just guessed at 52. One person told me 51, and another said 53.

1612461220040-png.15691008
 
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Lift angle is 51. Did you fully wind the watch before putting it on the timing machine?
 
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Hi Archer, yes, fully wound before placing it on the timing machine. I believe it was fully wound when tested. I unscrewed the crown and wound it clockwise a good number of turns. No way to tell (that I am aware at least) if fully wound though as there is not a wind indicator on the watch.
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If you wind it say 35 or 40 full turns, that should wind the mainspring fully. Depending on how good your hearing is, as you wind and listen carefully, the regular clicking will have a different irregular clicking on top of it - that is the mainspring slipping inside the barrel - that is how you can tell it's fully wound.

If it was fully wound there are two options I suppose - the watch is not running as they said it was, or there's something wrong with whatever timing machine it is you are using.

Cheers, Al
 
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Thanks... I'll check to see if I can hear the irregular clicking.

What are the acceptable amplitudes for the 1120 movement? 301 just seems high in my book, but this is my first Omega so maybe it should be that high. My first thought was that my timer may be off, but I do see the watch is off today by about 14 seconds, so who knows.

I put my Certina on the timer last night. It has an ETA955 414 movement in it had an amplitude of 278.
 
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Thanks... I'll check to see if I can hear the irregular clicking.

What are the acceptable amplitudes for the 1120 movement? 301 just seems high in my book, but this is my first Omega so maybe it should be that high. My first thought was that my timer may be off, but I do see the watch is off today by about 14 seconds, so who knows.

300 degrees is not unusual at full wind in a horizontal position. Omega requires that 24 hours after a full wind, that the amplitude doesn't go below 200 degrees in any position. Based on the data above where a couple of positions are only just over 200 degrees at full wind, this watch is not likely to pass the minimum amplitude test 24 hours after full wind - in particular when you correct the lift angle, as this will drop the amplitude readings about 6 degrees for every degree the lift angle is changed.

I put my Certina on the timer last night. It has an ETA955 414 movement in it had an amplitude of 278.

Interesting - the 955.414 is a quartz movement...
 
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Sorry, it's not a 955.414 (that's a Hamilton I have). It's a ETA 2824-2.

I did place the Omega on the tester this morning after sitting all night (not 24 hours though) and it was still about where it was yesterday.

I also tried the Lepsi phone app to test for magnetism, and it said magnetism was detected. Not sure how accurate that app is, but I ordered a $14 demagnetizer off Amazon and will see if that helps.

If that doesn't sounds like I need to find a watch shop who can test it. Do I need to worry about this if it is keeping good time? Not sure how much a watch shop would charge just to throw it on their timing machine.
 
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Well, it's clear something is wrong with the watch. What that is, I have no idea, so it's pretty difficult to say if it's anything to worry about or not.

But you had previously said it has gone "off" by 14 seconds. If that is over a day, that is not good timekeeping...
 
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Well, it's clear something is wrong with the watch. What that is, I have no idea, so it's pretty difficult to say if it's anything to worry about or not.

But you had previously said it has gone "off" by 14 seconds. If that is over a day, that is not good timekeeping...
Okay, so it sounds like the service slip that the watchmaker sent when he sold me the watch may not be correct... or possibly the timegrapher is just not that accurate (it is one of the Chinese ones, and I know they are not great at picking up amplitude). Might be good to find a watch repair guy and have him service it. Worst case, it needs adjusting, best case, my Chinese timegrapher is off.

I thought I read someplace that the Seamaster 1120 has a special plate on the inside of the caseback something that might cause problems. Was trying to find it just now, but just curious Archer if that is true or not or what your experience has been.
 
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There is an anti-magnetic cover, but it's not an item that cases problems...
 
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Thanks.

Where can I find out Omega qualified watchmakers near me? I know I can go to the Omega website to find the service centers, but I am talking about the local watchmakers who are qualified.
 
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I don't know that there is a database or anything specific to Omega approved watchmakers...
 
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It is a 2255.80/ PlanPro model with a 1120 movement. the watch was originally sold back in 2004.

I am curious. What do you mean by 2255.80/PlanPro exactly? The 2255 is the Electric Blue SMP is it not?

It may help others give you recommendations on a service centre if you told us where you were by the way.
 
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Sorry about that... my watch started out as a 2255.80, but has gone through some modifications to the "PlanPro" vintage. I'll upload a phone as soon as can. I live in North East Ohio (about an hour east of Cleveland) so if you can recommend any Omega certified or good watchmakers who could service it, I would appreciate it.

PlanPro means the watch has been modified with some of the Planet Ocean components and the Seamaster Pro.... hence PlanPro.... Basically, the person who sold it to me had the following done to it...

Custom modifications to build the Ultimate "PlanPro" (2230.50/2254.50+);
1. 42mm Planet Ocean bezel assembly complete
2. 42mm Planet Ocean handset
3. 42mm Planet Ocean crystal
4. 42mm Planet Ocean datewheel
5. H2 wheels to raise hand heights to clear dial logo 6. 2230.50 "Non-America's Cup" dial

IMG_0040(1).JPG
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Ah I see! I have owned all of those components, but in my case in their original locations across several watches lol. Forgive me, I was aware what PlanPro suggested, but wasn't sure that you meant the same, clearly you do. I can't help with a watchmaker in that particular part of the world but hopefully someone can. Al (Archer) who replied above is a watchmaker who is thought of very favourably but has the (dis?) advantage of being North of the border from you.

ps the watch looks great, but personally I still prefer the gold bezel non-ac above all.
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Thanks @padders , I do have all the original parts still (they were included in the sale)... the bezel was silver if I recall correctly, but maybe I am mistaken.

I have been reading a lot of what Archer has posted on this forum, so I consider his opinions to be very knowledgeable and full of wisdom. Finding a good watchmaker who knows the proper way to service an Omega is turning into a very tricky task. I know I could always send this to Omega, but I wonder if they would send it back looking like it originally did when it was sold back in 2004, hence why I want to find someone who I can work with to get this looked at and serviced if needed. My real hopes though are that my timegrapher is just off... being a Chinese one, I know the true watchmaker ones that cost over $1000 will give a better reading. Even with that though, there still may be issue inside that are not even being reported on the Timegrapher.
 
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The non-ac bezel insert is silver coloured but actually 18K gold. Bearing in mind how many parts on yours have been swapped I have no idea what Omega would say, you are perhaps wise to get it sorted elsewhere.

Edit: I just realised you said it was a 2255 so the original bezel was polished steel so yes silver coloured like you said.
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Depending on how good your hearing is, as you wind and listen carefully, the regular clicking will have a different irregular clicking on top of it - that is the mainspring slipping inside the barrel - that is how you can tell it's fully wound.

Oooh my goodness... I finally understand what was this random click and how I don't break the main spring if I over-wind...
T h a n k s
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I wish my hearing was good enough to hear that.

@Archer is there someplace I can find that will list Jewelers who have taken training to work on Omega watches? I'm sure that is tracked somehow and available, but just not sure where that would be.
 
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I wish my hearing was good enough to hear that.

@Archer is there someplace I can find that will list Jewelers who have taken training to work on Omega watches? I'm sure that is tracked somehow and available, but just not sure where that would be.

I guess you didn't read my previous answer this this same question...

I don't know that there is a database or anything specific to Omega approved watchmakers...