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Seamaster Cal1022

C
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Hello.
I have a few of questions regarding this Seamaster on ebay:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/17460420...0633.N36.S2.typeWATCH_ITEM_ENDING_SOON.R1.TR1
Is it genuine? Having done a small amount of research most 1022 Cals seem to have the Omega logo on the rotor, this one doesn't.
The condition to my untrained eye looks suspiciously good, has it been polished?
Is it desirable to purchase a vintage watch that has recently been the subject of an overhaul?
Cheers.
 
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C
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felipecotto felipecotto
Hello, movement is genuine but dial is not 😀
Wow, okay thanks so much, feel like I've dodged a bullet! I would appreciate it if you could elaborate on what makes it a redial?
 
Passover
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s-l1600.jpg
 
onlyomega94
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Looks like a ref. 166.0214.


felipecotto felipecotto
Hello, movement is genuine but dial is not 😀

What makes you think redial? Apart from the unusual placement of “automatic” under “Seamaster” and not “Omega” (which I believe to be correct for some dials) the font, spacing on the minute track and lume looks good to me.

About the watch in general - as @Passover points out, a movement claimed to be “overhaled” which is missing a screw obviously is a bad sign. Apart from that this type of reference is not that sought after because the integrated bracelet makes putting on a strap difficult. It does look to have been prepared for sale (which isn’t necissarily a bad thing) but for that price you can get a much better watch with a much better movement than the 1022.
 
C
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onlyomega94 onlyomega94
Looks like a ref. 166.0214.

Apart from that this type of reference is not that sought after because the integrated bracelet makes putting on a strap difficult. It does look to have been prepared for sale (which isn’t necissarily a bad thing) but for that price you can get a much better watch with a much better movement than the 1022.

Thanks for your insight, which movements do you recommend out of interest? I quite like the integrated bracelets in terms of aesthetics, if they drive the price down, all the better.
 
onlyomega94
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C Cherryboi
Thanks for your insight, which movements do you recommend out of interest? I quite like the integrated bracelets in terms of aesthetics, if they drive the price down, all the better.
If that’s to your taste then you should definitely go for a model like that (and they come much cheaper than the watch in that auction).

Other than that, the 30mm movements are classics, the 600 series are work horses and parts are abundant and the 55x and 56x are very loyal IMO. These are, however, often found in 50ies and 60ies models whilst the models with integrated bracelets typically are found in the 70ies (the one you linked to having a serial number dating it to roughly 1975). If you are into that sort of thing then by all means don’t let a 10xx movement hold you back, but just be sure not to pay as much as you would for a nice example from the 60ies.
 
C
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onlyomega94 onlyomega94
If that’s to your taste then you should definitely go for a model like that (and they come much cheaper than the watch in that auction).

If you are into that sort of thing then by all means don’t let a 10xx movement hold you back, but just be sure not to pay as much as you would for a nice example from the 60ies.

Really appreciate the advice, I'll have a look at the earlier movements. My Dad has a 565 and enjoyed hearing what you said. Thanks for taking the time answer my questions.
 
onlyomega94
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C Cherryboi
Really appreciate the advice, I'll have a look at the earlier movements. My Dad has a 565 and enjoyed hearing what you said. Thanks for taking the time answer my questions.
You are very welcome
 
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