Seamaster 168.022 / 166.028 Orange Seconds Hand - A Thread

No need to apologize, thanks for sharing it. I saw this as well and thought about creating a place for a discussion on it. Rather than creating another thread, this is as good a place as any. Posting the photo from the listing for others to see it. Also, thanks to @dsio for finding this one and for posting all the others that you post in the Recommended Vintage Omega Watches on eBay Thread!


DISCLAIMER: I have no affiliation with the seller or the watch, nor am I interested in purchasing it myself, I just have a soft spot for these Concentric Circles Dial with orange seconds and black hour/minute hands Seamaster references and thought it could be a fun discussion. I've only thought of sharing my observations in the hopes of providing assistance to any would be interested buyer.

I'm in no way an expert on these Seamaster ref. 166.028 but after adding two of these Concentric Circles Dial with orange seconds Seamasters to my collection and spending a significant amount of time scavenging the internet for these, I noticed a couple things on the example that was posted over in the above linked thread and after @b-lilja posted, I thought I'd share some thoughts / open it up for discussion.

Let's start off with as they say, the good. Case appears to be in a well worn conditioned, agreed that the watch has definitely had a life with some small knicks here and there but over all pretty decent. Brushing on the side of the case appears to still be visible. Correct crown looks to be there as well just again in well enjoyed condition.


From the style of the signed Omega symbol in the crystal, it looks to be a replacement at some point but it appears to be in good condition, so no red flags there. See last image regarding the arrow. The dial and markings appear to be in really good condition as well as the applied Omega logo adjacent to the 12 o'clock position.


The movement is definitely in need of a servicing but apart from some rotor rub, there isn't anything there that would hold me back if I was in search for one of these.


While the watch appears to be in a well enjoyed, honest condition what made me pause was the lume plots and the hour minute hand lume. I couldn't say with certainty that the dial and hands have been relumed, but I also wouldn't say I'm sure it's original . With the Magenta arrows, I've pointed out a few plots that are the most irregular in shape/size/placement compared to what I've seen in the past. The size is usually uniform other than 12 o'clock position lume and the plots are typically centered on the indexes. Additionally the lume at the both the minute and the hour hands looks to have an uneven application. Lastly, the color of the tritium lume appears more on the white side which differs significantly to the other examples I have seen with original lume that tend to patina to a more rich creamy yellow (this could just be due to the lighting of the photos). It should be noted that the seller makes to statement to or against the watch being relumed.

That said, from what I've seen on many references and true of one of mine, the lume on these hands and even the lume plots on the dial have a knack for falling off / out of placement. So a relumed watch may not uncommon for this reference and that also may be a deal breaker for a potential buyer but I figured it was worth noting.

I wonder though, what do you all think of this example? Did anyone notice anything else?

Congrats on the purchase! There is a list somewhere here on a thread that lists out all the vintage case references and the correct crown replacement part number. I think it’s a crown, gasket, crystal list. I have the link bookmarked on my personal laptop but I’m abroad for work now so don’t have it easy to reach. A quick google search associated to the forum will find it pretty quickly.

Chronometre and Non-Chronometre share absolutely the same case... so no worry

I’ve been noticing quite a few listings of both styles of the orange seconds hand / black hour & minute hands of the 166.028 in C24 as well as eBay.

Figured I’d bump this thread for would be buyers who may be looking for information.

As much as I want to say congrats on the sparkle dial / red seconds hand combination arrival to your ownership/custodianship, I'd be remised to not extend my condolences for the loss that resulted in your inheritance of this wonderful example.

Althought the photos are a bit rought, at a first glance, everything about the watch looks good to me albeit with a few notes.

• Bracelet looks to be an 1175 reference, which IMHO is a great bracelet for this. And yes, while they don't list in the bracelet / end link / crystal list posted above, this is a correct bracelet for this watch. See the 1968 Mexico Olympics magazine advert that shows the case reference and 1175 bracelet pairing.
• The only thing that is a bit funny are the 47 end links. These are originally 20mm end links that I assume must have been filed down to accommodate the 19mm lug width of this watch. That said, they are correct to the bracelet reference so I'd say wear it as is and don't sweat it.

All that said, it looks to be lovely and will most likely need a service. Feel free to drop your location here and those of us with local knowledge to your area's watchmakers could point you in the general direction of a competent omega certified watchmaker. Along with many other member's recommendations here on the forum, I also strongly do not recommend you have Omega directly service this watch. Too many horror stories.

More of a discussion for the group, but having what my wife would call a borderline obsession with these orange seconds hands 168.022 / 166.028 references, I'd wager that the red seconds & sparkle dial combinations are actually the more uncommon of the bunch. What do you all think OF?