Seamaster 120 project

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Looks great.

Case finish on these is the typical sunburst brush with polished sides.

 
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Hi Al,

Thanks for taking the time to explain that. It is better than my way of moving the spring to one side and supporting the pinion. I shall use it from now on. I did my first 565 as you surmised and afterwards realised what could be happening. Mine didn't look like your pictures, thankfully.

I have just ordered a cheap timing machine. One of the Timegraph 1000 models. I've resisted buying one before as there is so much to learn just picking up the basics. It just seemed a further complication and I didn't want to get distracted. I've been checking them with the simple method of monitoring over a 24/48 hour period for each position. This just tells me they are running in spec (except one which had/has an issue馃檨 ) so, it will be interesting to see the amplitude as well. I suspect that interpreting the results will be difficult in it's own right....

As I say, thanks again for the tip. Have just got back from a day out so am off to fit my bezel!

Cheers, Chris.

No worries - glad to help with whatever I can. We have gone through interpreting timing machine results a couple of times on this forum, and indeed when you start to see detailed numbers, it puts a new perspective on your work, and not always one you want to be aware of.

Running within spec is much more than just seeing the average rate within the limits, so when you get to perform real timing checks, and looking at beat errors, amplitudes, Delta, etc., you may find that what you thought was in spec really isn't. But we can cross that bridge when we come to it, so feel free to post questions you may have here when you get your machine, and I will certainly help you interpret the data.

Cheers, Al
 
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Thanks Norman. I knew I would not be lucky enough to get one with an original finish. Mine is a polished finish on both top and sides but, I think I will keep it like that as the bezel is not 100%. However, it has come together nicely and the bezel is now mounted.


Overall, I am quite pleased with it and with the many positive comments and interest here.馃榾 Still a few things to do...

Cheers, Chris
 
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it puts a new perspective on your work, and not always one you want to be aware of.

Cheers, Al


I like this comment! I don't have a timegrapher but have received some help and seen a couple of my movements on one. I've also read some of your explanations on here so will post some results when I get it up and running. I have the Omega specs for a 565 so would appreciate your input to the results.

Regards, Chris.
 
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Hi Stewart,

Can I ask what tool you are using to unclip the arms of the spring out of the setting, and to put them back? The springs should not be breaking. They will sometimes come out of the setting and have to be put back in, but unless they are already damaged, they should not break.

I have serviced hundreds of these and can only recall once having a broken spring....

Cheers, Al

My statement may have sounded more dramatic than it actually is. Out of five I have serviced, three have broken - one of which was already bent. I use the tip of a very fine oiler, mounted in a small piece of brass rod. The odd thing is that I have only suffered this on 5xx movements.
 
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What an amazing job. That looks fantastic. Thanks for posting the work as it progressed.
 
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What a great thread, thanks Chris and what an improvement on that watch!馃憤
 
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Hi Chris,

Amazing to watch as you have transformed this watch back to its former glory and whilst the bezel may not be 100% it's still very nice for a vintage piece but unlike you I would definitely look into getting the case refinished back to the original. I do know of a couple of firms that do this in the UK although not sure how long the wait or the cost if you don't have it serviced at the same time if you want further details just PM me.

Marc
 
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Hi Guys

A final update. All is back together and I am having some fun with Al and Maurice on another thread interpreting Timegrapher results. I may have the case refinished, Marc, and I think there may also be someone on here who does it. Can't recollect who at the moment.

Picture of the caseback:


Picture with big sister SM300 'continuation' mounted on a 6C-33C MIG-25 radio valve (http://www.tubetvr.com/favtube.html). I'm using the word 'continuation' in the same way as Jaguar do here馃槈 :
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/11032018/Jaguars-lightweight-E-Type-in-pictures.html

The SM300 was the first movement I worked on in earnest with a logic that even if I screwed it up, it was just a couple of hundred dollars at risk. Hard to screw up the case etc and that is where the big expense is here:



Thanks for all the positive comments and will let you know how the next project goes (anyone have a cheap SM300 available? I think not馃檨 ).

Cheers, Chris.
 
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The watches are great, obviously, but I do like the valve as well (tube for our American colleagues).

I'm running KT66 pairs in my stereo at present (not GEC, sadly, can't afford those . . .) 馃槈
 
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The watches are great, obviously, but I do like the valve as well (tube for our American colleagues).

I'm running KT66 pairs in my stereo at present (not GEC, sadly, can't afford those . . .) 馃槈


Am I sensing original Quad IIs? I have KT66s in my Marshall 2266 but my hi-fi uses these little known monoblocks from Kora in France. Sadly, Kora went out of business a few years ago. Setting these up correctly with new valves (mine are 20 years old now) is akin to watch regulation. The power valves are not cheap (four as well for me) but hardly in GEC KT66 territory.

Perhaps a thread divergence here!

Picture from the web:
 
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Another watch / tube pic I took earlier:

x70652-f203bca22197c5ce36cd3e25e2b8b440.jpg.pagespeed.ic.kLBYjuai1I.jpg
 
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Perhaps a thread divergence here!

Picture from the web:
70657

A time honored 惟F tradition 馃槈