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Hi Al,
Thanks for taking the time to explain that. It is better than my way of moving the spring to one side and supporting the pinion. I shall use it from now on. I did my first 565 as you surmised and afterwards realised what could be happening. Mine didn't look like your pictures, thankfully.
I have just ordered a cheap timing machine. One of the Timegraph 1000 models. I've resisted buying one before as there is so much to learn just picking up the basics. It just seemed a further complication and I didn't want to get distracted. I've been checking them with the simple method of monitoring over a 24/48 hour period for each position. This just tells me they are running in spec (except one which had/has an issue馃檨 ) so, it will be interesting to see the amplitude as well. I suspect that interpreting the results will be difficult in it's own right....
As I say, thanks again for the tip. Have just got back from a day out so am off to fit my bezel!
Cheers, Chris.
it puts a new perspective on your work, and not always one you want to be aware of.
Cheers, Al
Hi Stewart,
Can I ask what tool you are using to unclip the arms of the spring out of the setting, and to put them back? The springs should not be breaking. They will sometimes come out of the setting and have to be put back in, but unless they are already damaged, they should not break.
I have serviced hundreds of these and can only recall once having a broken spring....
Cheers, Al
The watches are great, obviously, but I do like the valve as well (tube for our American colleagues).
I'm running KT66 pairs in my stereo at present (not GEC, sadly, can't afford those . . .) 馃槈