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Rolex Explorer Question

kjd960
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I'm new here and I have a question. I had a relative pass away recently and gifted me a few watches, one is a Cartier Tank, and the other is a Vintage Rolex Explorer 1016. I had a reputable Jewler tell me the watch is authentic. My question is most if not all Explorers say Swiss or Swiss Made at the 6 O'clock position, this one has nothing in that spot. Any Ideas? Thanks in Advance.
 
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Dan S
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Either your photo is suffering from really extreme compression artifacts, or the dial is poorly repainted. I suggest you compare the printing to other examples that you find online.
 
kjd960
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Dan S Dan S
Either your photo is suffering from really extreme compression artifacts, or the dial is poorly repainted. I suggest you compare the printing to other examples that you find online.
It looks better in person and with a loop but that was going to be my second question.
 
lindo
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Yup - a redial. Good for you for asking for advice from this Forum.
 
kjd960
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Dan S Dan S
Just look at the coronet.
Interesting, that's why I decided to post to a forum.
 
Dan S
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Feel free to show photos of the rest of the watch and bracelet from various angles and we can tell you what you have. Remove the bracelet and photograph between the lugs top and bottom. Show any numbers on the bracelet, clasp, and endlinks. Even with a repainted dial, there can be a lot of value assuming the rest is legit. Some bracelets alone are worth more than $2k.
 
kjd960
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Dan S Dan S
Feel free to show photos of the rest of the watch and bracelet from various angles and we can tell you what you have. Remove the bracelet and photograph between the lugs top and bottom. Show any numbers on the bracelet, clasp, and endlinks. Even with a repainted dial, there can be a lot of value assuming the rest is legit. Some bracelets alone are worth more than $2k.
Thank You. Not sure I know how to remove the bracelet, but I have a jeweler that will do it for me.
 
Dan S
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kjd960 kjd960
Thank You. Not sure I know how to remove the bracelet, but I have a jeweler that will do it for me.
A jeweler or watchmaker can do it. Or if you want to give it a try, you can poke a pin or paperclip into the holes at the end of the lugs and release the spring-bars.
 
Fallout Boy
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And: Don t lay the watch on a white sheet for he pictures. Gray - if possible...
 
kjd960
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I'm heading to work so no time to take pictures right now, but I did remove the bracelet from one side. The numbers are.. 1433952.
 
Dan S
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That serial suggests 1966 or 1967. Most likely, it originally had a glossy dial with gilt print, a very desirable variant.
 
kjd960
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Dan S Dan S
That serial suggests 1966 or 1967. Most likely, it originally had a glossy dial with gilt print, a very desirable variant.
Interesting. It was purchased at Bixler's I believe. I'm planning on taking it there in January.
 
kjd960
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vibe vibe
Check the other side too, it may say 1018!
It says 1016 on the other side. Also has Stainless Steel Design or something like that, hard to see I need a better loop.
 
kjd960
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Got more info on the watch and bracelet. I removed the bracelet, and one side has the numbers 1433952 and the other side has REGISTERED DESIGN with 1016 under it. Too had to photograph right now. I do have a photo here of the bracelet.
 
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Dan S
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C&I rivet bracelet. The end-links aren't always the best fit, but they were often supplied with watches sold in the US.
Edited:
 
kjd960
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Dan S Dan S
C&I rivet bracelet. The end-links are always the best fit, but they were often supplied with watches sold in the US.
I'm curious, what does the "78" stand for?
 
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