Restoring My Father's Constellation - Look what my siblings found

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Good tips there, my only change is to use a bamboo skewer with the end cut square and cleaned up with grit paper.

It reduces the chances of deep scratching that the steel tool could cause and I find it easier to use the flat end to push the pin in the springbar down to slide into the lug.

Excellent advice there, I will need to try that next time!
 
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I'm always paranoid and use masking tape all around the lugs and ends of the case. You can never be too careful!
 
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Nice tutorial, @GuiltyBoomerang
What kind of pad are you resting you watch on in these photos?

I didn't get mentioned! (Cries in a corner)

Jokes aside, all watches have lugs which are the end pointy bits the strap/bracelet/band go between. For your Constellation (and for most watches) you have a springbar that goes in between these drilled holes in the lugs. To remove the springbar, you can start with a tool like this:



One side has a prong that 'fits' into the end of the springbar. The other end is for pushing springbars out if your watch has a hole on the other side of the lug:



To take the springbar out, you gently put the prong side of the tool into the curved slot of the springbar and push down. Do this slowly on a protected surface area. Release the springbar gently so that it drops down onto your work surface. Otherwise it will fly away and you'll spend quite some time looking for it...



Put the springbar into your band. There should be a loop at one end of both pieces of the band. Insert the bar through here. Most of the time the springbar should fit snugly through; if it doesn't, it may be too big or the strap loop is too small. If this is the case, you will need to find slimmer springbars or a bigger strap.



Making sure that both ends of the springbar protrude out of the band, first place one end into a hole on one lug. You then want to use the prong side of the tool and push gently down on the springbar. This will squeeze it down so you can fit it and the band. Once you have the pin inside the lug gently move it from side to side until you hear it 'click' into place.



Then all you need to do is put the other side of the band on!



Practice makes perfect with these - however, there are also people who prefer just asking a watchmaker to do it for them. It is an useful skill to learn though!



I will have a look for you once I'm free 馃榾
 
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Thank you for all of the replies.

The watch is ready and I will go to pick it up within the next two weeks. For the time being, I think I will just get a nice, relatively inexpensive strap. I will continue to search on Ebay for a vintage gold or gold-plated buckle that resembles the one in the color ad that had the same markers as the watch I have.

I called the watchmaker to get the measurement of the lugs (18mm). While talking to him, I mentioned that after reading some threads on the collector's web-sites (in particular, "The lucky new owner of my Grandad's Omega, advice needed!") that I debating getting the watch polished. I was talking to the guy up front with whom I had dropped off the watch. At the time, I had showed him the email from Desmond indicating that polishing is something you don't really want to do. The guy up front is not the watchmaker. Anyway, when he wrote the order, he indicated gold plated case and dial, so when I mentioned polishing, he said that would be bad as it would destroy the gold plating. I said that I am pretty sure that it is an 18k gold watch and that the pictures of the inside of the back case indicated as such. Plus, while not an expert, the scratches and gouges on the front and back case certainly seemed to indicate that it was solid gold. He indicated that he handles quite a few watches and has a feel for the ones that are solid gold due to their weight. While I am fairly confident that it is solid gold, I was wondering if some of the experts here would chime in and put any fears to rest.

Last thing, is it safe to assume that any gold or gold plated buckle from India, Thailand, etc. is most likely fake? That seems to be my take.

Thank you again.
 
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Well, If your watch is french and solid gold, you should find an eagle hallmark on the case. It stands for 18K solid gold.
 
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If it is gold plated, in France we put a squared hallmark, with some letters inside.
 
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Well, If your watch is french and solid gold, you should find an eagle hallmark on the case. It stands for 18K solid gold.

It is Swiss from the inner case. He was stationed in France, but may have purchased it during their many travels during his 18 months there. The pictures of the watch on are the first page.
 
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Well, on the back, I can see that it is written 18K 0.750. This means that it is 75% solid gold.
 
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If we are talking about the watch in your origional post @GeorgeBailey2 then the inside of the case back tells us it is 18K solid gold. The 18K and 0.750 stamped inside the case back confirm this with no doubt!馃憤
 
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I went into the city (Manhattan) finally and picked up my father's watch. They serviced the watch, replaced the crystal and sourced a crown. No polishing was done. Let me know if the crown looks correct. I added a relatively inexpensive strap and they put on the 18K buckle I scored on Ebay. They were not interested in the gold plated vintage buckle as trade on the strap (hello Ebay). I am glad to finally have it on my wrist. Of course, having been on this site for a few months, I also find myself longing for a Speedmaster or a Seamaster. Here are the pics:
 
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Hi George Bailey2,
here is my Connie Ref.2648-1-SC in Stainless Steel with the original, never refinished dial馃グ.
Please take a close look at the points near the hour markers and the stripes near the arabic numerals!
Those are characteristic for the original dial!
Best regards, Reiner
 
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Hi George Bailey2,
here is my Connie Ref.2648-1-SC in Stainless Steel with the original, never refinished dial馃グ.
Please take a close look at the points near the hour markers and the stripes near the arabic numerals!
Those are characteristic for the original dial!
Best regards, Reiner

Right. When I initially reached out to Desmond on his site, he quickly established that it had been redialed (hour hash marks v. dots, no cross-hairs, no Swiss Made under the 6), as was the custom, at some point when it was serviced. Since my dad wore this (pretty much) daily from 1953 until pretty recently (probably when he cracked the crystal, say 2008), my guess it was redialed anywhere from 1967 to 1980. I am hoping we are able to find an Omega file in his file cabinet that includes a service history.

The dial on yours is amazing. It looks as though it was tucked away in a drawer from the moment it was purchased.

With mine, ultimately, I may have an internal debate regarding the redial. Yes, the redial has its own 30 to 40 year history, but it is a redial. How much of the sentimental value should I assign to the dial as opposed to the case, markers, and hands? Is there anyone out there that can accurately re-redail (is that a word?) it? What would Omega do to it if I explicitly requested no polishing?
Edited:
 
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Is there anyone out there that can accurately re-redail (is that a word?) it?
Not any better than what you have.

What would Omega do to it if I explicitly requested no polishing?
They might refuse to work on it. However, that's kind of a moot point now, since you've already had the movement serviced. Note that Omega uses an outside firm in Switzerland to do any dial refinishing work. Those costs are added on to any factory service bill and it isn't cheap.

Let me know if the crown looks correct.

The correct crown is still available from Jules Borel:

http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=\]ZETETMTq

Take care,
gatorcpa
 
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On a side note, I stopped into the Omega Boutique on 10/5 when my son was taking an entrance exam for Regis High School (a Catholic High School in Manhattan). I only had a few minutes and was there primarily to get the paperwork to obtain an abstract. I asked the woman there if she knew why you can't order one on-line in the US. She didn't know. I think in the abstract sticky thread it is due to some copyright issue of some sort. I am hoping to see where he purchased the watch. I recall seeing a post (with a pic) somewhere that made me think that if was ordered by the US Army for sale at the PX, that the abstract may indicate that. He most likely got it in France at the PX, Germany or Italy.

As the test was on a Saturday, the shop that had my watch was closed, which was a bummer.

As I walked past Trump Tower on the way to the boutique, there was a pro-Trump Chinese American rally blasting away. That was kind of interesting to hear/see.
 
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I didn't get mentioned! (Cries in a corner)

Jokes aside, all watches have lugs which are the end pointy bits the strap/bracelet/band go between. For your Constellation (and for most watches) you have a springbar that goes in between these drilled holes in the lugs. To remove the springbar, you can start with a tool like this:



One side has a prong that 'fits' into the end of the springbar. The other end is for pushing springbars out if your watch has a hole on the other side of the lug:



To take the springbar out, you gently put the prong side of the tool into the curved slot of the springbar and push down. Do this slowly on a protected surface area. Release the springbar gently so that it drops down onto your work surface. Otherwise it will fly away and you'll spend quite some time looking for it...



Put the springbar into your band. There should be a loop at one end of both pieces of the band. Insert the bar through here. Most of the time the springbar should fit snugly through; if it doesn't, it may be too big or the strap loop is too small. If this is the case, you will need to find slimmer springbars or a bigger strap.



Making sure that both ends of the springbar protrude out of the band, first place one end into a hole on one lug. You then want to use the prong side of the tool and push gently down on the springbar. This will squeeze it down so you can fit it and the band. Once you have the pin inside the lug gently move it from side to side until you hear it 'click' into place.



Then all you need to do is put the other side of the band on!



Practice makes perfect with these - however, there are also people who prefer just asking a watchmaker to do it for them. It is an useful skill to learn though!



I will have a look for you once I'm free 馃榾

Cheers for this, been looking into guides recently and yours was one of the most helpful