Redial, question on value?

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Hi, OF. First post, so go easy on me!

I've been trying to find a late '50s Seamaster to match the one my dad had when I was a kid. I believe he picked it up at the US Army PX in Berlin, and he let it go when he started biking seriously about 30 years ago.

I have a pretty strong memory of the piece: Arabic numerals, stainless steel, automatic, no crosshairs, no date, no pie-pan coloration. I would have thought that combo would be pretty easy to find. I would have been wrong. And, of course, it's possible my memory is unreliable in some way.

I haven't turned it up precisely, but I found this, which is very close. (The shadows are just that — from my camera, nothing else.)

I have little experience, but it seems obvious this is a redial. The complete lack of blemishes, the functioning lume dots, and the lower-case "automatic" are the most obvious clues to a noob like me. On the plus side, the "Seamaster" script is very well done (I'm a designer and have a well-trained eye for that kind of stuff), and the furniture items are very well aligned. It has a cal.552 movement that's in extraordinary shape, according to my local watchmaker.

So my question is about value. Obviously the sentimental value counts in addition to "what's it worth" to a collector, but I don't want to overpay by too much either.

Thanks for reading all this, and for any advice you can offer!

 
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Authentic Seamasters from the 1950s with original dials aren’t that hard to find. They come up for sale with some frequency right here on the private watch sales forum, on Chrono24 (don’t overpay) and on eBay (choose carefully). A redial really devalues a vintage watch. I think you’re better off continuing to search for the real thing.
 
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Authentic Seamasters from the 1950s with original dials aren’t that hard to find. They come up for sale with some frequency right here on the private watch sales forum, on Chrono24 (don’t overpay) and on eBay (choose carefully). A redial really devalues a vintage watch. I think you’re better off continuing to search for the real thing.

Thanks for the reply!

Believe me, I've probably looked at 1500 vintage Seamasters in the various forums! There's only one that seems all original and that fits the criteria I have in my head, but I don't think I want to spend what they're asking — close to $2000. This one's well under half that.

I totally get that a redial devalues it to collectors. That's why I posed the question originally. I mean, if someone was asking $250 for this (they're not), I think we'd agree that it might be worth it for sentimental value alone, right? So if anyone has a rough idea of what the value might actually be, I'm all ears.

Thanks again.
 
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Well, let’s start with your budget. How much do you want to spend?
 
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I’ve got a few 50s Seamasters bought in the last few years and I’d expect you to find a decent example on eBay for around £500, give or take.

You should also look at the ‘Private Sales’ thread on this forum.
 
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Well, let’s start with your budget. How much do you want to spend?
Thanks again. I think I'd go $1000 to $1200 if it's in nice shape.

I’ve got a few 50s Seamasters bought in the last few years and I’d expect you to find a decent example on eBay for around £500, give or take.

You should also look at the ‘Private Sales’ thread on this forum.

Yeah, been there. I think I'm looking for something so specific that my aesthetic criteria are my biggest obstacle. I may just have to wait it out and see if something comes up in the next several months or so. Thanks for the reply.
 
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Is this the kind of thing you're looking for? Obviously this one is sold but gives you an idea and model number

https://omegaforums.net/threads/reduced-omega-seamaster-600-vintage-135-011-cal-601-uncommon-dial-756-€.89149/

No... I think that's '60s, yes? I don't think there were '50s models with all 12 numerals. The one I posted above is right on the money — except for that whole redial problem. 🙁 I'm pretty confident I'm looking for a 2846, but there are a few other refs that are very close. Thanks!
 
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Is an automatic movement essential? Manual wind would widen the field of candidates considerably - and be less expensive too.
 
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Have a look at Omega bumper movements from the 1950s, possibly 351 and 354 calibre which both have sweep second hands rather than subdials.
 
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Yes, bingo. But US$1900 is steeper than I want to go. Again, yes, I know the problem is me, not you. 😉

As someone who has bought a bunch of vintage watches, I promise you it's worth it to pay a little more to get a high quality watch you want.

You need to think long term (the cost of wearing the watch on your wrist over 30, 40, 50+ years). When you do that, the difference between $1000 and $2000 is nothing.
 
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Yes, bingo. But US$1900 is steeper than I want to go. Again, yes, I know the problem is me, not you. 😉
I understand.

If you don't mind the redial and can get it at a suitable knock down price then its your decision of course.
If it were me I would wait for an original one at a price I was comfortable with or if it became too pressing I would pay a premium just so I knew I had bought something original.
Obviously you do you. No recriminations 👍
 
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To my eyes, that’s not a good redial and sticks out like a sore thumb. I wouldn’t buy it at any price.
 
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Not a fan of the pie-pan coloring. I know I'm impossible, but thank you!

Well I’d say look at either more reference 2846 examples or if you want a bumper look at 2577.
 
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If you are thinking about getting a redialed watch at least get a good one, the one you have posted is really quite bad and the case has been heavily polished.
 
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If you are thinking about getting a redialed watch at least get a good one, the one you have posted is really quite bad and the case has been heavily polished.

Hey, we're all new at some things, right? If you're willing to help me learn, for the sake of argument, what would distinguish a good one from this one? I'm happy to be pointed to another thread if you're aware of one.