Recommended Vintage Omega Watch Projects

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Good evening fellow OF members,

I have a new idea for a thread similar to the "Recommended Vintage OMEGA WATCHES (only) On EBAY (NOT for Inquiries)" but recommending Omega project watches that would be fun to clean up/ restore. A majority of vintage Omega watches listed on Ebay are in poor condition but may be aesthetically pleasing to an individual unconcerned with the watch being "collectors grade".

*DISCLAIMER - I have no affiliation with the seller or connection to the watch other than recommending what looks like a good project to undertake.*

I would like to share the following watch as my recommendation, a full stainless steel dogleg Constellation Cal. 561 (not sure if it's a 14902 or 168.005 but pretty sure you'll be able to correct me). I adore full stainless steel watches especially when it comes to vintage as the case and bracelet can be hygienically cleaned compared to lets say a vintage leather strap plus stainless steel is timeless in looks. So as you can see the dial is heavily patinaed (I personally love a bit of patina), the lugs have been polished and the crown really isn't period appropriate. But the crown and crystal can be easily changed and reading the listing definitely worth servicing. Did I mention it has a lovely 7 row BOR bracelet with 11 endlinks 👍

Your valued thoughts and opinions welcome regarding the nature of this thread. Hopefully it's becomes a thread worth contributing to.

Cheers.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334313159305?hash=item4dd69dfa89:g:UHYAAOSwBylh-Toe

 
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The watch went for £1,444.00 🤔
What the.. That is top dollars for a silver dialed. I have sold pristine 168.005's for that and even less recently
 
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I assume it was eBay UK?

UK prices have gone absolutely insane recently, even more so since Christmas.
 
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As someone who is just starting the journey of getting into watchmaking I have gotten my start mostly vintage ladies pieces as they can be found significantly more affordably (and when the missus gets a watch out of the deal it seems to soften the blow a good deal too)

When a 60's 70's ladies watch with a 620 or 625 can be found for around $50 if you are patient, an overhaul and a new crystal and you can have something you can be proud of for under $100 (if I ignore all the tools and consumables ive bought...)

Currently working on refurbishing a C-case constellation though, my first venture into a mens vintage project.

Not gonna lie though, I am nervous to share it due to all of the hate around refurbishing cases... but at the end of the day, I bought it for me, and not for its resale value.
 
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As someone who is just starting the journey of getting into watchmaking I have gotten my start mostly vintage ladies pieces as they can be found significantly more affordably (and when the missus gets a watch out of the deal it seems to soften the blow a good deal too)

When a 60's 70's ladies watch with a 620 or 625 can be found for around $50 if you are patient, an overhaul and a new crystal and you can have something you can be proud of for under $100 (if I ignore all the tools and consumables ive bought...)

Currently working on refurbishing a C-case constellation though, my first venture into a mens vintage project.

Not gonna lie though, I am nervous to share it due to all of the hate around refurbishing cases... but at the end of the day, I bought it for me, and not for its resale value.
Nothing wrong with trying to rescue something that is salvage grade. There comes a point where lovely patina transitions into plain old ugly decay. You just have to know where the line is.

FYI... thanks for the tip on ladies watches. I just bought a home built watch on ebay to get the ETA 2801-2 out of it for practice with disassembly and assembly.
 
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Before I forget, there is one issue with working on ladies watches, and thats your options for mainspring winders that can fit the tiny barrels is basically limited to the bergeon one.

If you had been considering a chinese made winder as a stopgap, it will make things a good deal pricier in that initial outlay for tools...
 
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As someone who is just starting the journey of getting into watchmaking I have gotten my start mostly vintage ladies pieces as they can be found significantly more affordably (and when the missus gets a watch out of the deal it seems to soften the blow a good deal too)

When a 60's 70's ladies watch with a 620 or 625 can be found for around $50 if you are patient, an overhaul and a new crystal and you can have something you can be proud of for under $100 (if I ignore all the tools and consumables ive bought...)

Currently working on refurbishing a C-case constellation though, my first venture into a mens vintage project.

Not gonna lie though, I am nervous to share it due to all of the hate around refurbishing cases... but at the end of the day, I bought it for me, and not for its resale value.

@noless would love to see come pics of the C-Case Connie. Great tip regarding the womens watches and especially to justify the expenditure on watches.
 
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not gonna lie, im worried that the level of wear on this case that bothers me enough to feel compelled to do something about it I suspect isn't enough for seemingly the vast majority of vintage watch enthusiasts...

I would likely be crucified for cleaning up the case like this, so I kinda want to wait to see if I can make it come out nice before posting anything...

I DID however manage to find a very luck NOS case for this exact model which really gave me the confidence to have a go at cleaning up this case, because worst case I just swap the movement into that case.
 
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I assume it was eBay UK?

UK prices have gone absolutely insane recently, even more so since Christmas.
I think this is right.

Not to turn this into a political discussion but with Brexit we have effectively added 20% to the price of watches from the EU. So our market has shrunk considerably.

Awful.
 
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I think this is right.

Not to turn this into a political discussion but with Brexit we have effectively added 20% to the price of watches from the EU. So our market has shrunk considerably.

Awful.

So true, I cry when I see the prices of Vintage Omega watches from the States compared to those from UK Ebay 🙁.
 
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Alot of OF members have recommended Simon Freese in the past when it comes to servicing in the UK. Currently completing his challenge to turn £100 into a Rolex on his Youtube channel. Current episode he is working on an Omega Dress watch.
 
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oh, that hurts me, that 620 is completely gone, so he really just bought a case...

I guess pricing in my area for these movements is quite low, since he seems to feel that 90 pounds wont get it running again, when I woulds have said buy a womens watch with the same movement and then drop it in.

I do look forward to seeing how he fixes this, as I just got a second connie that had its crown open and met some water in its life...

was quite the shock when it arrived and the crown wouldn't budge, getting the caseback off was a horrible feeling seeing that...

I also just finished my second 620 overhaul, I think i will need to take the hairspring off the balance and give it a little massage, no amount of adjusting seems to get the beat error off, so the hairspring itself is probably a bit twisted, but not owning a staking set just yet it might be beyond me to correct just yet.
 
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Note sure how everyone feels about blistered dials but found this on UK Ebay current bid at £390.00 with
4d 05h until listings ends. No movement pics I'm afraid nor any substantial info so factor in the cost for a service.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/-/313874618952

 
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I have found that I always end up happier having purchased a used item in excellent condition that has been well care for. There is always a temptation to get a "good deal" (lower price) on something that is more beat up. More often than not, there is also damage below the surface that is not revealed until after I made the purchase. As a general rule of thumb, the cosmetic condition of an item is indicative of the mechanical care / service that it received from its owner. My advice is to pay a premium price for an item of exceptionally good condition.
 
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I'm of 2 minds on this topic, as I have purchased a few beaten up pieces with zero intent to use the dial or case, simply after the movement, and sometimes even just the crown.

I did also however very thoroughly lose a bet on a c-case constellation that I took a punt on as the case was nice and it had a blue dial, upon getting it though i found the keyless works had rusted solid, which did also lead to purchasing a pretty rough looking geneve for parts of the movement... now IF i can cobble together something that actually works at the end of all of this then I will have considered it worth it, given just how much i am learning from the experience.
 
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I have found that I always end up happier having purchased a used item in excellent condition that has been well care for. There is always a temptation to get a "good deal" (lower price) on something that is more beat up. More often than not, there is also damage below the surface that is not revealed until after I made the purchase. As a general rule of thumb, the cosmetic condition of an item is indicative of the mechanical care / service that it received from its owner. My advice is to pay a premium price for an item of exceptionally good condition.
This also reminds me of something a friend told me years ago regarding classic cars. (He had won many national trophies with his collection of 1960s muscle cars -- about a dozen cars.) He said that if you buy a classic car to restore it you will pay 2x the price you would pay if you bought one that someone else painstakingly restored. It is romantic to think about restoring something (I am personally plagued with this romanticism), but it is never a good investment. (FYI... I live in a "restored" house that cost me more than if I had just build a new house.)

Think of it in terms or risk mitigation. Buying something beat up on the chance that I might be able to turn it into something nice... that is a risk.
 
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This also reminds me of something a friend told me years ago regarding classic cars. (He had won many national trophies with his collection of 1960s muscle cars -- about a dozen cars.) He said that if you buy a classic car to restore it you will pay 2x the price you would pay if you bought one that someone else painstakingly restored. It is romantic to think about restoring something (I am personally plagued with this romanticism), but it is never a good investment. (FYI... I live in a "restored" house that cost me more than if I had just build a new house.)

Think of it in terms or risk mitigation. Buying something beat up on the chance that I might be able to turn it into something nice... that is a risk.
Oh for sure, this is very true. If I just wanted a watch I would just wait for the right auction and buy it, but as someone who wants to learn the art of watchmaking, the challenge and perhaps most importantly the satisfaction that comes from having done it myself is far more important to me.

Even though the fact that I buy cases and movements separately and then combine them all to make myself a watch is basically heresy on this forum...

Is it different if I took a case i found as just a case, and then installed in it a movement that it would have originally come with? that said I have no idea if the dial I have came in this particular case... with the no frankenwatch policy on this forum i felt it safer not to share this project.
 
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oh, that hurts me, that 620 is completely gone, so he really just bought a case...

I guess pricing in my area for these movements is quite low, since he seems to feel that 90 pounds wont get it running again, when I woulds have said buy a womens watch with the same movement and then drop it in.

I do look forward to seeing how he fixes this, as I just got a second connie that had its crown open and met some water in its life...

was quite the shock when it arrived and the crown wouldn't budge, getting the caseback off was a horrible feeling seeing that...

I also just finished my second 620 overhaul, I think i will need to take the hairspring off the balance and give it a little massage, no amount of adjusting seems to get the beat error off, so the hairspring itself is probably a bit twisted, but not owning a staking set just yet it might be beyond me to correct just yet.

Have you moved the stud carrier?
 
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Have you moved the stud carrier?
I have it as far across as it can go, I actually cant get this one to self start at the moment and i noticed that the hairspring seems a bit off center.

the coils are still pretty concentric though, just not centered, so its probably just a tiny bit bent.