Recommendation for a Home Safe

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i assume there are also other videos where he talks about being out of town … 🤔

Yeah, OPSEC is pretty key in this game. A mid-level rapper was killed in Texas out at dinner for his jewelry and watches after his g/f posted their location on Instagram or snapchat.
 
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Hello.

My collection has reached a point that I am in need of a home safe. I do not like using a safe-deposit box since I wear all my watches regularly (a requirement in my collecting).

I have searched here but found nothing regarding home safes.

Is anyone using a safe they can recommend? Have you tried any that you do not recommend? Does anyone recommend against using a safe at all (say if watches are insured)?

Thank you!

Kyle
Don’t bother get a bank safe deposit box
 
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I don't want to blame the victim, because I guess the story is legit. But it's very strange. Publicize your international trip and "run out of time" to take your watches to the bank? People are giving, but only $2500 AUD so far. And what's the relevance of the $75,000 AUD (~$50k USD) goal?
 
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Much appreciated, BlackTalon! The diversion approach is quite interesting and sounds effective. Just put some lower-value items in there.

If foregoing a safe, what, may I ask, do you do to keep your watches safe at home?
Not possible, keep them in bank safe and do not post on social media. Also don’t let anyone see you wearing your watch. Your risk your choice, you pay your money and take your choice.
 
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I have a “real” fire safe, in which I keep some important documents as well as some (but not all) of my watches.

With a fire safe, *I think* one must be conscientious of the fact that a fire safe could still reach temperatures that, although short of combustion, may still allow certain materials to melt. That is, my important papers are not kept in a plastic binder, for example.
So the metal and plastic binders will melt but papers wont get roasted ?
 
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time to make my insta private again i guess ... such is the rub with this hobby. But at least turn off location tracking on your photos!


Better than private Insta...... No Insta.... ;-)
 
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From what I was reading most safes are rated for 350-deg F ... if you read the operating temperature ranges of most watches tends to top out well below that. You would need a fire proof safe that is media/document-rated, where the internal temperature is "guaranteed" not to exceed 125-deg F for a certain time period. Those aren't cheap.
 
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And then we have the issue of home invasions which seem to be on the rise in some locales, a super duper home safe is worthless with a gun pointed at your, or your loved one's, head. What everyone needs to do is perform an assessment of their personal circumstances and then formulate a plan to protect your assets, everyone's situation is unique. Living in an apartment in an urban environment is one thing, living in semi-rural town is another. There is no one solution for everybody. Personally, I'm not a fan of home safes, for others it may be their choice. Although they can be somewhat inconvenient (banking hours, distance from home, etc) a bank safe deposit box is probably the most secure answer, but even a bank safe deposit box is not 100% secure, there have been instances of mass looting although the chances are very, very low. And the trend in the banking industry is to get away from offering SD boxes, they don't want to have to deal with them, they aren't a profit center for a bank.
 
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Hello.

My collection has reached a point that I am in need of a home safe. I do not like using a safe-deposit box since I wear all my watches regularly (a requirement in my collecting).

I have searched here but found nothing regarding home safes.

Is anyone using a safe they can recommend? Have you tried any that you do not recommend? Does anyone recommend against using a safe at all (say if watches are insured)?

Thank you!

Kyle

I would have the watches insured, in a hidden safe, and also have an alarm system with cameras that record. Any other form of protection wouldn't hurt either. I know Sentry is a good brand for safes.
 
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So the metal and plastic binders will melt but papers wont get roasted ?

definitely not suggesting metal will melt before paper

Paper doesn’t combust until >450° F - while certain thin plastics, like ziplock bags, can begin to melt (and so destroy nearby objects) nearer to 200°

so my important papers are not kept in for example binders with thin plastic coverings


From what I was reading most safes are rated for 350-deg F

generally *fire* safes (different from other safes) have ratings that use a metric of staying below 350° (As a standard) for less than certain amounts of time (as the variable): eg, there 1/2hr 350° safes, 1hr 350° safes, etc.

Here’s an example of the 2hr 350° test:





So no doubt, with a 1/2hr 350° safe, a hot enough fire that burns long enough and burns the house to the ground will probably succeed in destroying safe contents

but the hope is that for other scenarios, like a fire that starts and burns an adjacent room, or is being put out by firefighters in short order, might still preserve the contents

if you read the operating temperature ranges of most watches tends to top out well below that.

yeah, my watches are in a fire safe more for security than assurance that they won’t be somewhat or entirely damaged in a severe fire. the *fire* aspect is more for documents.

That said, the fire rating tests are to keep things *below* 350° for periods of time; in a less severe fire I’d just cross my fingers that the interior temps stay well below 350° and at least some of the watches are at least reparable

Afterall, astronauts in “daylight” EVAs are subjecting their speedmasters to 250° F
 
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Our house has a safe built in to the foundations in a hidden location. Unfortunately it gets wet inside it so stuff in it corrode and mildew.
 
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Bank safety deposit boxes are a good idea if you’re going away for a while, but having to drive 30 minutes to the bank every time you want to change the wrist furniture sucks most of the joy and spontaneity out of owning different watches for different moods.

so, you want to keep them at home. The home invasion thing is a red herring— if they’re willing to put a knife to the throat of your significant other, they’re going to get them anyway. Or you’re going to try and lie, which means you might keep the watches, but your SO is certainly going to leave you shortly after.

Get a good tool and drill-resistant fire safe from a good supplier - there’s a surprisingly strong second-hand market - and as @STANDY says, make sure it is too heavy for three people to lift, bolt it to the floor where it isn’t against an outside wall, and ask your household insurers for a discount.
 
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Get a good tool and drill-resistant fire safe from a good supplier - there’s a surprisingly strong second-hand market - and as @STANDY says, make sure it is too heavy for three people to lift, bolt it to the floor where it isn’t against an outside wall,

adding that ideally such a safe is installed such that all 5 sides (other than door) are not accessible. Safe’s security ratings are largely based on the security of the door side of the safe, with the other sides being relatively vulnerable.

for example, here’s the relevant performance standards of a true “safe”, in this case a “TL-30” rated safe (my emphasis added below) - which is a common version of a home safe with a relatively high security rating:


“U.L. LABEL - BURGLARY CLASSIFICATION TL-30: SUPERIOR PROTECTION
Signifies a combination-locked safe designed to offer a maximum door protection against attack by common mechanical and electrical hand tools and any combination of these means….

Performance Requirements

The door successfully resist entry* for a net working time of 30 minutes when attacked with common hand tools, picking tools, mechanical or portable electric tools, grinding points, carbide drills and pressure applying devices or mechanisms, abrasive cutting wheels and power saws.

* Entry means for: Opening the door or making a 6 square inch opening entirely through the door or front face”

Here’s what one might expect a TL-30 to look like, noting both the depth and construction of the door thickness vs the walls, but also the interior space provided (given the thinness of the other 5 walls):




Safes such as the TL-30 sized above may cost $2,000-$6,000 new for such a high door rating, weigh 1,400 pounds, and provide relatively ample interior space (compared to the safe’s overall volume) with the outside dimensions of the above safe being 38 x 38 x 33½ but and with the inside dimensions being 36 x 36 x 26


In contrast, here’s a comparably sized but more “commercial”/“industrial” rated “TL-30x6” safe, intended to provide security on all 6 sides, which new may cost upwards of $15,000 and weigh 5,000 pounds, with the outside dimensions of this safe at 38W x 35D x 41H, with the inside dimensions being 27W x 16 1/2D x 30H





Both of above stand in contrast to almost everything sold at sporting goods stores, which technically aren’t safes but instead “residential security cabinets” - those things, the 5 non door sides can be popped open like a tuna can with any sawzall




Which is all to say: almost any safe a person would consider (or afford) for home, no matter how heavy, is intended to be installed to disallow access (even brute force access) to anything but the front door.

Which is a mistake made by the guy in the video we’ve been discussing - the thieves just took a torch to the top side
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Not much better than a Colt 1911 😀
 
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Crime vs fire/flood need different solutions. I finally decided to pay for insurance. Have the 3 or so watches you are wearing in easy access, and expect to lose them. Keep all the others in a stash someplace. Have some cash...$500 to $1000 also in a give away stash...and have your valuable papers in a fire proof envelope but also easy to access if you have to get out fast. Crooks don't want your mortgage docs, birth certificats, marriage, baby records, etc. As others have pointed out...the best defense is your home's security, your own ability to prevent or defend against violent crime. That includes your awareness of the situation around you when you are not at home...and on your way home being aware if you are being followed...and on arriving at home, paying high attention to everything around you when in the transitional space from outside to inside. Self protection/defense is a 24/7 state of mind...and when you have it, you have no need to worry.
 
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Buying overpriced insurance is like taking boxing classes where you'll get kicked and punched in the face three times a week for decades just so you can defend yourself the one time you'll be physically assaulted. Some people would rather sign up for an infinite number of small beatings while others accept the hypothetical knock out that may happen once or twice in your lifetime if you're unlucky. To each their own.
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