Rake X Sinn Bund

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In the present case, at least, it's deliberately done to mimic aged lume: "we added a cream colored patina for the aged tritium look." The look is fine, but it's the intent that bothers me. Kind of like homage watches. Many of them look fine too, but they're designed with the intent to resemble something they're not---a watch that has 30 years of history, a Seamaster, a Submariner, etc.

Interesting...some follow-up as I'm trying to understand this mindset...

Relating lume colour to "homage" watches is maybe a bit too far for me. I don't see those as the same thing at all.

The "intent" of the lume colour doesn't mean much to me - if I like the way it looks or not does. C3 lume is a green tint, and is the "purest" form of Super LumiNova (the brightest also). Anything other than green tint is intentionally made with a specific colour, so even the C1 white is "coloured". Is this "faux" white lume?

So when someone relumes a vintage watch that had tritium, does it bother you if they use tinted lume instead of white? The intent is to reproduce something that is no longer there, so how does this fit in?

What if someone takes a new dial, and has it relumed with tinted lume? I ask because I recently finished a Speedmaster where someone had a modern dial and hands relumed. It looks fantastic, but the "intent" may be an issue based on what you have said.

Cheers, Al
 
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Is this "faux" white lume?
The term I used was "faux aged." I understand that lume can be tinted in many colors. What seems beyond coincidence is that the many watches whose cases, dials and hands resemble classic brands have lume that's tinted some shade of yellow or brown, resembling old lume.

From Steinhart: "Super Luminova old Radium Vintage"
From Squale: "The highlight of Squale 20 ATMOS Militaire Ceramic is probably the iconic dial design with the "old-radium" looking luminous for that nostalgic feel."
From Tiger Concept: "Silver Mercedes hands with vintage yellowish lume."
From Kemmner: "007 aged lume ETA 2824 top grade."
From Borealis: "Swiss made superluminova old radium X1 applied to dial, hands and bezel."

Intent matters to me. That said, I just re-read the thread below from a couple years ago, and it seems I'm a minority of one on this issue. So I'll just slink off now and soak my new Speedie dial in some tea........

https://omegaforums.net/threads/aged-lume-cheesy-or-aesthetic-high-point.55226/
 
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So no comment on the other scenarios I've outlined?

Intent matters to me.

And I'm trying to understand why, but I guess it will remain a mystery...
 
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And I'm trying to understand why, but I guess it will remain a mystery...
Yes, it will forever remain a mystery.......
 
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For me "faux-aged" is an easy way for brands to enlarge their customer base by surfing on the vintage trend, especially when it is sold as "faux aged". Most of the time I see it as a lack of imagination, and that is what bothers me even if it can look great. If the original design was great, why not just reissue it without faux age (but with all the modern stuff)?
I think the Hamilton Intra-matic chrono is a great example of that. It is only a modern Chrono-matic, not a faux-vintage one, even it if is not perfect (but still look awesome IMO).

Now I say that, I realized that I have a Khaki Field (H70595593 to be precise) that could be seen as "faux aged" but I see it as "cream" and I like it 😁 (I just need to buy it some new spring bars because I stole them for my CASD...)

@Archer your 2 scenarii are not an issue for me. One person that wants to give a vintage look to his own watch because he likes it better (warmer tone, used to vintage, whatever his reason), why not? It is an heavier customization than changing the strap, but in the end I guess he does it for himself. On the contrary, I read somewhere about one guy that had his old trench watch relumed to its original color (light green-blue if I recall correctly) because he wanted to respect the work of its creator. TBH it looked really great too

Relume a vintage watch with faux aged luminova is also understandable. You liked it because of its colors, and you want to preserve them (plus having for example white hands with an eggshell dial is a bit weird). About my CASD, I nearly bought one that was relumed with faux aged luminova (by James Hylan, very well done). In the end, the price was still a bit too much so I waited for a better opportunity. But the faux "aged" was not an issue for me here.

I also accept some limited edition that are there to commemorate an important event, e.g. the 57 Trilogy, even if I still think that non faux-aged would look even better.

I guess that for me it is just a matter of what the watch should look like given its age and life plus the initial intend behind the color choice: was it because it just looks better or because you wanted to mass-produce it and market it as "vintage look" to make easy money?
 
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Man my 1989 Sinn 903 has brown lume from the factory... must be way out of style....
 
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Thanks for putting your thoughts out there. Will respond to a few things...again I'm just trying to understand this particular issue, as it seems to be very polarizing.

For me "faux-aged" is an easy way for brands to enlarge their customer base by surfing on the vintage trend, especially when it is sold as "faux aged". Most of the time I see it as a lack of imagination, and that is what bothers me even if it can look great. If the original design was great, why not just reissue it without faux age (but with all the modern stuff)?

Are you not in favour of brands enlarging their customer base? Watch brands follow trends all the time - if they didn't they would likely go out of business.

You describe this as a lack of imagination, and I can certainly understand that stance.

But why is that any more of a lack of imagination than changing the black PO to one with an orange bezel and a few orange numbers on the dial? Or making an AT with a bunch of different dials colours (blue dial, silver dial, black dial, and grey dial)? Or making Speedmaster date models with a pile of small differences in dial and bezel colours? Rolex with Pepsi and Coke inserts on GMT's? I could go on nearly forever giving examples of small changes that are designed to sell more watches, and cater to different tastes, so why aren't these all considered a lack of imagination?

If lack of imagination is the problem, then let's face it, pretty much every company is lazy and lacks imagination even if they don't use different colours of lume. But it's the lume that seems to draw some people's ire, and question the intent - this is what I don't really understand.

Now I say that, I realized that I have a Khaki Field (H70595593 to be precise) that could be seen as "faux aged" but I see it as "cream" and I like it 😁

This is exactly the way I feel about the watches with lume that resembles aged tritium or whatever.

@Archer your 2 scenarii are not an issue for me. One person that wants to give a vintage look to his own watch because he likes it better (warmer tone, used to vintage, whatever his reason), why not?

Relume a vintage watch with faux aged luminova is also understandable. You liked it because of its colors, and you want to preserve them (plus having for example white hands with an eggshell dial is a bit weird).

If watch companies are making dials with lume of a colour that looks likes it's aged, to use your words, why not? To me this situation is very much the same, yet when companies do it, it's somehow "wrong" and with some sort of bad intent.

I guess that for me it is just a matter of what the watch should look like given its age and life plus the initial intend behind the color choice: was it because it just looks better or because you wanted to mass-produce it and market it as "vintage look" to make easy money?

Again, easy money is the best kind to make, and I'm not sure why this should be treated so differently than all the other ways Omega and others brands make easy money. Like Speedmaster LE's for example...

But your view of what a new watch "should" look like is yours, and not necessarily what watch designers think. You seem to associate this is white lume, but if the designers and brand have used another colour, then that's what the watch "should" look like, right? It's the brand that decides what the watch is going to look like.

I'll admit that back in 2008 when the two versions of the JLC Tribute to Polaris came out, the "1968" with the coloured lume looked very strange to me, but at the time I wasn't really collecting vintage watches. I really preferred the "1965" version that had applied numerals and white lume. But over time I became more interested in vintage watches, and I would now probably pick the 1968 version over the 1965.

Put another way, a modern Speedmaster Pro with white lume is not a watch I have any desire to own. To me the thing that makes any Speedmaster desirable is the lume colour, so I own this one instead:



But if couldn't find one that was in good shape and had the lume colour I wanted, then I would probably do this (relumed modern hands and dial):



Again as you say it's a much warmer tone, and that appeals to me vintage or not. I don't consider it anything nefarious, or to have any bad intent - it's just what I like. If a modern watch is made that way from the factory, why is that really any different?

Again, very much appreciate you giving your thoughts in some detail.

Cheers, Al
 
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@Foo2rama Was it sold as "faux-aged" lume? 😜

I do not say I won't like the look of it, and some watches marketed with "faux-aged" lume look indeed great. But I tend to agree with @wsfarrell about the intent. As Archer was trying to understand this mindset, I wanted to explain why that matters to me.

@Archer For sure it is not a perfectly rational explanation because as you said, changing only the dial or the bezel color is also an easy way to change the look of a watch and increase your customer base. Still, I feel that most of the time changing the lume to make it looks older is the laziest way to do it: there was no real color or design research. At least there is some behind a new dial color (the Seiko design website provided some interested insight about dial colors). Also they tend to use this look to raise the price: maybe that is the true issue...
+1k for the vintage looking Polaris date other the standard black Polaris. +70% for the Hamilton Murph other the standard 42mm Kahki. Even if it was a bit more than changing the lume color, that is a hefty price increase

So it is not that it is only a cheap way to increase the customer base, it is also often a very cheap way to charge them more...
Apparently it is good for business so companies were right to do it. But because of that (the things I wrote above, not that it was a good business decision), most of the time I do not feel that I want to buy it: they did not work enough to earn that extra money... Still, I do not mind if others buy it
 
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@Foo2rama Was it sold as "faux-aged" lume? 😜

I do not say I won't like the look of it, and some watches marketed with "faux-aged" lume look indeed great. But I tend to agree with @wsfarrell about the intent. As Archer was trying to understand this mindset, I wanted to explain why that matters to me.

@Archer For sure it is not a perfectly rational explanation because as you said, changing only the dial or the bezel color is also an easy way to change the look of a watch and increase your customer base. Still, I feel that most of the time changing the lume to make it looks older is the laziest way to do it: there was no real color or design research. At least there is some behind a new dial color (the Seiko design website provided some interested insight about dial colors). Also they tend to use this look to raise the price: maybe that is the true issue...
+1k for the vintage looking Polaris date other the standard black Polaris. +70% for the Hamilton Murph other the standard 42mm Kahki. Even if it was a bit more than changing the lume color, that is a hefty price increase

So it is not that it is only a cheap way to increase the customer base, it is also often a very cheap way to charge them more...
Apparently it is good for business so companies were right to do it. But because of that (the things I wrote above, not that it was a good business decision), most of the time I do not feel that I want to buy it: they did not work enough to earn that extra money... Still, I do not mind if others buy it

It was not marketed as such... but a quick google will clearly answer that question. Sinn 903
 
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Yeah, there isn't much to show about that pouch. Handy for travel though. It would have been better if it was a manual wind movement rather than an automatic. An LE of 150 pieces too.
I once bought several black nylon padded pouches of about that size for $1 each at a Walgreens sale table. Very "Tacticool" looking.
I figured they'd be useful for carry extra cartridges or other stuff in a pack or pocket when hiking.
I later found out these were meant for ladies to carry extra Tampons in purse or luggage.
Just the right size for a watch now that I think of it.
 
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Having owned a Heuer Bund, I really rate this watch's aesthetic. But I agree with other comments... the fact that it's not a flyback is a little lazy considering they copied a vintage design almost 100% (that has a flyback movement).

Also I'm not sure if the 'dark star' component works for me... adding a black star to the dial of a reissued vintage design seems neither-here-nor-there. A very modern element on an otherwise entirely copied vintage design. Seems like a lazy and cheap way to try and add 'coolness' to a watch that should probably be 30% cheaper than its RRP, and the star has absolutely no relationship to the origins of the watch and design.
 
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Personally I think fautina is not that big of a deal.... not everyone has the luxury of waiting 30 or 40 years for their watch to patina, nor the money to pay for ridiculous prices of some of these vintage pieces.

I can understand though that it definitely should not be commanding any premium, so it's annoying when it does. Likewise - I can understand for the vintage purist how it can be very much less desirable. But I think pieces like the JLC deep sea alarm look far far better with the fautina tones than they would if the lume was bright white.

There's a similar side to clothing I think. do you want to get those $500 pair of japanese-loom-woven raw denim jeans to wear in over the next 2-3 years for sick fades - or just buy a similarly price pre-faded pair?
 
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@Archer For sure it is not a perfectly rational explanation because as you said, changing only the dial or the bezel color is also an easy way to change the look of a watch and increase your customer base. Still, I feel that most of the time changing the lume to make it looks older is the laziest way to do it: there was no real color or design research. At least there is some behind a new dial color (the Seiko design website provided some interested insight about dial colors). Also they tend to use this look to raise the price: maybe that is the true issue...
+1k for the vintage looking Polaris date other the standard black Polaris. +70% for the Hamilton Murph other the standard 42mm Kahki. Even if it was a bit more than changing the lume color, that is a hefty price increase

So it is not that it is only a cheap way to increase the customer base, it is also often a very cheap way to charge them more...
Apparently it is good for business so companies were right to do it. But because of that (the things I wrote above, not that it was a good business decision), most of the time I do not feel that I want to buy it: they did not work enough to earn that extra money... Still, I do not mind if others buy it

Thanks again. For me I don't see colouring the lume as any easier than changing the dial colour or bezel colour - they are all equal on the laziness scale in my eyes. 😀

It does seem that the "ease" of doing this and an apparent price increase is an issue for some, or at least the perception of a price increase.

The current JLC Polaris line doesn't appear to have any premium associated with the coloured lume. I'm looking at the JLC web site as a write this, and the Polaris date with coloured lume is 7800 Euro, and there is no corresponding model with white lume. There is a Polaris auto (no date) that is 7700 Euro, but that doesn't have a date function, so it appears the price increase for the coloured lume version is for the date complication, not the lume. The difference is 100 Euro, not 1000 (unless you were referring to some other watch...not sure).

On the Hamilton though, the "Murph" is a sort of LE is it not? At least a certain number were made with a special box or something. If so, then that's maybe one reason it's more. I suppose one could make the argument the calling something an LE is not a "real" way of "earning" the extra money they charge either, but it's common for LE's to be more expensive.

Okay tried looking at the Hamilton site but it's a bit of a mess to find anything. Did find an article that said the Murph was 895 Euro, and the regular 42 mm Khaki was 525 Euro. There's more than just coloured lume that's different on the Murph, as it has a different hand set, and the second's hand has Morse code on it apparently. I suppose those could be considered lazy too though for the premium.

If it's about the company "earning" the money, I can understand that way of thinking about it. But you really might not want to think about what watch companies do to earn the money they charge too much...you may stop buying new watches no matter the colour of the lume...

😉

Cheers, Al
 
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But you really might not want to think about what watch companies do to earn the money they charge too much...you may stop buying new watches no matter the colour of the lume...
True 😁

About the Polaris, the no-date automatic on leather strap costs 6750€. At 7700€ it comes with a bracelet. The colored lume one has a rubber strap, so I choose the leather to compare.
The Murph is indeed kind of a "unlimited LE". They did a first round with a special box (standard Hamilton box, but with special colors inside it), now they are selling it the same price but with the standard box. Around 700-750€ I could give it a try, whatever the box (and given my tiny wrist, it may stay a try 🙁). It is still a nice price increase over the standard 42 mm Khaki, but I can justify 200€ for the exclusive look and the (awesome) work on the hands. Close to 900€, I cannot anymore
 
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True 😁

About the Polaris, the no-date automatic on leather strap costs 6750€. At 7700€ it comes with a bracelet. The colored lume one has a rubber strap, so I choose the leather to compare.
The Murph is indeed kind of a "unlimited LE". They did a first round with a special box (standard Hamilton box, but with special colors inside it), now they are selling it the same price but with the standard box. Around 700-750€ I could give it a try, whatever the box (and given my tiny wrist, it may stay a try 🙁). It is still a nice price increase over the standard 42 mm Khaki, but I can justify 200€ for the exclusive look and the (awesome) work on the hands. Close to 900€, I cannot anymore

Yep - I was so focused on the dial and ate I missed the bracelet/strap issue.

So on the subject of laziness...

Say a watch brand uses the same movement in the same watch with only very minor tweaks in that time, so changes to colour of the movement, changes in a few parts here and there, but the watch stays pretty much unchanged in 50+ years...lazy? I would say yes certainly, but the Speedmaster Pro is still very popular. 😉
 
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Ahahah, I was sure that question will come 😀

Can I say: "It is not laziness, it is perfecting one of the best watch ever created"? 😁
 
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Ahahah, I was sure that question will come 😀

Can I say: "It is not laziness, it is perfecting one of the best watch ever created"? 😁

You are an Omega marketer's dream. 😀
 
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They still need to convince me that I should spend 5k+ on a single watch 😉
Maybe for my next major birthday milestone, so they'll have to wait a bit
 
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For me the „beige“ lume is just one of the possible colors, like white or blue or green. The issue is: does it match good with a design of the watch or not. And that’s why the companies pay the designers - professionals for. The talented people with sense of taste and educated to know what combines well or not. We can, as buyers ,reward their effort and buy the watch or not. But having prejudices as “fauxtina” is for me not an issue.
Sometimes it goes with a design of watch better than a white one. Specially with reissues, which are meant to look like originals, and the beige look of lume is only one of the elements, next to in e.g. the ‘bleached” looking or tropical aka rusty looking dial. In e.g. I’m grateful to Omega that they did the Speedmaster 57 with beige lume, since it looks closer to how the original would look now, which I really like but I can not afford. I had a modern Speedy with white lume, but I sold it in moment when I got my 145022-69, because I find the watch much nicer with yellowish lume and I preferred to wear that one. However the vintage watches quite often don’t have the water resistance of the modern watches, so you do not want to go out with them when is raining, and here are the reissues great - they look like as nice as vintage (also because of the beige lume) and can be daily beaters.
Ergo - it is so great that there are so many watches outhere- for each taste something for sure, and we are not forced to buy if we don’t like it 😉