Question for flat-link bracelet owners…

Posts
6,538
Likes
21,180
If you have a flat-link bracelet (or a few), I’d appreciate your take on this:

If you look at the little tabs on the back of the end-links, where the reference number is, and where it interfaces with the back of the lugs:

IMG_3175.jpeg

I find that these flat-link end-pieces are rarely firmly sitting against the lugs. In other words, you will see from the photo below that there is a small amount of play, that the end-link can be wiggled, rather than being firmly set.

IMG_3176.jpeg

This is the case with every flat-link that I own. I was curious if yours, too, have play, or are they tightly set. Thanks.
 
Posts
3,168
Likes
12,373
If they sat tightly, they wouldn’t make this high quality noise of flimsy metal hitting solid metal when moving the wrist! Who‘d want that, really.
 
Like 4
Posts
19,405
Likes
45,669
I don't know that any of the endlinks on my vintage bracelets of any style or brand fit perfectly snugly without any play.
 
Like 1
Posts
8,631
Likes
44,434
The 640's on my Speedmaster 1175 bracelet definitely have some play. The OEM flat link bracelet that came with my Seamaster 300 Heritage doesn’t have tabs. Instead, the links kind of plug in to sockets that are built into the case. It’s an ingenious design and the best bracelet that I’ve seen from Omega. The bracelet integrates perfectly with the case and there’s no play at all.
IMG_5111.jpeg IMG_5110.jpeg IMG_5112.jpeg
Edited:
 
Like 1
Posts
10,833
Likes
19,045
All mine have some play. The only one that are tight are the ones that came back from STS which I asked them to fit as part of a service. I keep meaning to ask them what they did to make them so snug and rattle free.
 
Like 1
Posts
28,367
Likes
34,699
I’ve had many and they’ve all been loose, rattled, pulled hair and generally been a bit rubbish.

They have a look and are original but I’m glad bracelets have improved drastically over the years as the entire 7077 to 1039 generation are kinda cheap crap.
 
Like 1
Posts
8,631
Likes
44,434
I’ve had many and they’ve all been loose, rattled, pulled hair and generally been a bit rubbish.

They have a look and are original but I’m glad bracelets have improved drastically over the years as the entire 7077 to 1039 generation are kinda cheap crap.
Agreed. Sadly, it's cheap crap that sells for a small fortune.
 
Posts
6,538
Likes
21,180
All mine have some play. The only one that are tight are the ones that came back from STS which I asked them to fit as part of a service. I keep meaning to ask them what they did to make them so snug and rattle free.

David, does it look like there’s a fairly significant bend in those tabs towards the lugs on the watch from STS? I’ve seen some try to minimize the play as noted below, in “B.” I’ve also seen them bend the entire link in like “D,” but that changes the way it sits in the lugs.

IMG_1145.jpeg
 
Posts
28,367
Likes
34,699
Agreed. Sadly, it's cheap crap that sells for a small fortune.
It reminds me a bit of the earliest 911 I got to drive, which was one of the first 2.0 litre 901s, beautiful to look at and incredible cool with historical significance but the car was appalling to drive beyond belief, especially the horrible gearbox and clutch.
 
Posts
6,538
Likes
21,180
Agreed. Sadly, it's cheap crap that sells for a small fortune.
It reminds me a bit of the earliest 911 I got to drive, which was one of the first 2.0 litre 901s, beautiful to look at and incredible cool with historical significance but the car was appalling to drive beyond belief, especially the horrible gearbox and clutch.

To be fair, these need to be evaluated from the context of their eras. If they were the best that could be done at the time, then they weren’t crap. If they were perceived as crap at the time, then yes, crap for sure.
 
Posts
10,833
Likes
19,045
David, does it look like there’s a fairly significant bend in those tabs towards the lugs on the watch from STS? I’ve seen some try to minimize the play as noted below, in “B.” I’ve also seen them bend the entire link in like “D,” but that changes the way it sits in the lugs.

IMG_1145.jpeg

Strangely enough, there isn’t.

I’ve had others where DIYers have clearly tried to bend the links or the tabs as per your diagram B, but it seems more like diagram D was used to ensure a snug fit.
 
Like 1
Posts
8,631
Likes
44,434
To be fair, these need to be evaluated from the context of their eras. If they were the best that could be done at the time, then they weren’t crap. If they were perceived as crap at the time, then yes, crap for sure.
Actually, I only have one vintage Omega flat link and it's an 1175. The build quality on that bracelet is actually quite good. I've never been impressed with the 1039 and some of the other flat link bracelets with the spring loaded links. They all seem flimsy and somewhat trouble prone to me and the asking prices for them in today's market are outrageous - originality at any price, I suppose. I'm a much bigger fan of the vintage Omega BOR bracelets which I think are beautiful, durable and incredibly comfortable to wear.
 
Like 1
Posts
2,369
Likes
3,239
One can always adjust hollow end links with tabs to fit the particular watch by bending them until there is no play. This is not unique to flat-link bracelets. Most people don’t do this, or don’t adjust enough because they are concerned with the metal tabs scratching the back of the lugs. But it can be done with patience so that the end links don’t rattle. At least I’ve always been able to do it.
 
Like 1
Posts
4,402
Likes
5,794
@M'Bob you can probably adjust your end links to minimize play, a bit. You did not show, but of course there are some end links which have been shaved down.

Original vintage (Omega) flatland bracelets are great, by the way ;).


If you have a flat-link bracelet (or a few), I’d appreciate your take on this:

If you look at the little tabs on the back of the end-links, where the reference number is, and where it interfaces with the back of the lugs:

IMG_3175.jpeg

I find that these flat-link end-pieces are rarely firmly sitting against the lugs. In other words, you will see from the photo below that there is a small amount of play, that the end-link can be wiggled, rather than being firmly set.

IMG_3176.jpeg

This is the case with every flat-link that I own. I was curious if yours, too, have play, or are they tightly set. Thanks.
 
Like 1
Posts
2,283
Likes
5,582
One can always adjust hollow end links with tabs to fit the particular watch by bending them
This ☝️
From my experience, they all have some level of play which can be somewhat controlled by bending the tabs as needed, but they’ll never be 100% snug and tight as solid end links would.

I find that out of all the hollow end links fitted on vintage Speedmasters, Seamasters, etc. the second version of the #6 end links with the wider bottom and interior ‘flange’ have the tightest fit and the least amount of play.
Edited:
 
Like 1
Posts
6,538
Likes
21,180
This ☝️
From my experience, they all have some level of play which can be somewhat controlled by bending the tabs as needed, but they’ll never be 100% snug and tight as solid end links would.

I find that out of all the hollow end links fitted on vintage Speedmasters, Seamasters, etc. the second version of the #6 end links with the wider bottom and interior ‘flange’ have the tightest fit and the least amount of play.

Thanks. Are these later iterations the one without the two lines on the inside?