Purchased an Omega C2577-12SC Subdial Seamaster Cal. 490

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Hi OF soldiers,
I have recently purchased (what appears to be) a vintage Omega Seamaster circa 1954-1955.
I bought it at a local thrift store for a deal I could not say no to.
When I first saw it because of the hands, I suspected it was a seamaster.
it does not say Seamaster but I know that in the early years they did not say seamaster. Besides it is a sub-dial.
The lady showing me the watches, which I have known for years, had two watches; a movado (quartz) that was ok looking (except for a big chip past 12 o’clock) and I said to her that I was not interested in the movado, but I was interested in the “other one” She replied to me; “they are both not working but if I pay to put a new battery in them they will be a lot more”I did not have the heart to tell her that the omega did not take a battery. Instead, I asked her how much for this one? And she confidently replied, ten bucks. I (in a world record setting time) immediately got my wallet out and paid her. As I have mentioned earlier, the first thing I noticed was the hands while she is ringing me up I grab the “soon to be mine” watch and see that it is a screw case, I noticed the dial is in ok condition, bad scratches to the crystal and very poor lighting in the shop made it hard to see it clearly. The crown does not look correct and will not turn, the crystal is very scratched but no big gauges on it. The strap was in terrible shape and one side seemed to be a little bit smalller than the other strap side. No original buckle. And I’m thinking to my self as I get my receipt, gold filled? As I get home, I immediately start prepping my ultrasonic cleaner and getting my shop lights turn on. As I remove the case back and confirm (maybe) that it is indeed a possible seamaster; (maybe)… I run the case and case back in the cleaner. The dial is astonishingly, in near perfect condition (too good to be true?) and the movement is a 490 cal. I see the oxg and determined it is a US market watch and run the serial number that tells me is a mid 1950’s made watch. ‘54-‘60.
Now, I would like you guys to help in confirming some suspicions I have.
Not an original crown, crystal, crystal ring (I think it should be yellow and not SS) Why did I find a 490 and not a bumper movement? Is this a Franky Omega? I keep reminding myself, it was only 10 bucks.
If you look at the case (which turned out to be all gold) you can see that one of the lugs is slightly bent.
I thank you all in advance for your time and feedback. I am now awaiting parts from all over to at least get it running again.
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Not sure where to start with this one. There’s parts from at least three completely different references. To be honest, I’m surprised the parts can even be combined to produce a watch.
 
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And a slightly over-enthusiastic hand at the polishing wheel too I'm afraid. That poor case looks to have lost about half its weight 😲
 
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Not sure where to start with this one. There’s parts from at least three completely different references. To be honest, I’m surprised the parts can even be combined to produce a watch.

Creative use of parts.
 
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Seakingseaquest, As I disassembled the watch I had a similar thought… while some parts looked aged and with great patina, some primarily the winding stem mechanisms looked almost new. One usually finds dirt and oil here (in this case the main plate bridge side was more dirty, with old dry oil and dirt.
 
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Cristos71, I was thinking about this as well, the known examples I have seen at the omega records website, forums and countless pics and internet look-ups do not look like the typical case you find in say a bumper seamaster.
is it because this is a gold case and was specially made? The lugs seem to be more curved, elegant and thinner. I think this is why one of them seems a little bent. I wish you could see it in person, while you can see it is gold, it does not look over polished. It looks like an old gold ring and some smaller dings and imperfections can be seen.
 
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Well, as you know, the 2577 has a 35x bumper with a sweep second, not sub second. So the back is not matched to the dial/movement. The midcase is obviously not for a 2577, and looks more like it's for a Constellation, or possibly a locally made case.
 
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I’m afraid it’s a redial as well.

Still great for ten bucks but no show pony.
 
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Very surprising that the 2577 case back fits into that case band. The band is almost definitely from a US, nationally made watch. I've definitely seen the same style before, but I don't keep track of those references.
 
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Dan S, one of the things I noticed when I took the movement out is that 1 of the case clamps was very tight and it looks to me, to be a bit modified (look close into the picture of the whole tray 2nd spot where the main plate is sitting on my grey movement holder) I will take a better pic of the 2 case clamps…. I also noticed in that same side of the “modified” case clamp a great deal of scratches on the main plate surrounding this modified case clamp hole. It is such a tight spot that it did cross my mind that if the glove don’t fit you must acquit. The caseback does fit to the midcase, but I have never had a screw-on caseback that requires 1/3 of a turn to tighten to very tight. It is usually minimum 1/2 to 3/4 turn. I looked for the obvious signs; the rotor with wear marks from the case back or the screw-on caseback with marks of the rotor. As you can see no rub marks on the rotor but on the caseback there is a little bit of a circular something going on. So, I did suspect that this caseback may be from another.
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Yes, there is no doubt that the 2577 caseback doesn't match the rest of the watch. This is a 2577.

IMG_1899.jpeg IMG_1888.jpeg IMG_1883.jpeg
 
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Original, sort of, on the right and definitely something else on the left
 
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I am wondering if the original case back got melted down for its gold?
 
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I am wondering if the original case back got melted down for its gold?

Possible, but why not melt the rest of the case. And how did a gold case end up at a thrift store, who then sold it for $10. 🤨
 
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Davidt, I am afraid you tell no lies…First off; the dial is too pristine! I did look at it back in my shop under significant magnification and I was able to see the obvious redial signs. Subdial markers at 11 and 5 are a wee bit shorter than the others and some of the gold hour markers don’t line up perfectly with the seconds marker behind them. But wait for it…… if you have hour markers why do you need a seconds hash mark behind it? You don’t.
Finally; on the back of this dial, it is clearly scratched the year 1969 and there is a window area (not punched-out obviously, circular) for a date configuration. Also, I kept asking myself, why does it read only “Swiss” and not Swiss made?
 
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Dan S, This thrift shop accepts donations and then turns around and sells most things for very reasonable prices.
People getting rid of stuff, the newly departed and it is close to Aspen, Colorado where people get rid of very nice things. Do you think I should rebuilt the 490 or ? I am unsure if a bumper movement would fit in this case. Maybe I should melt the mid case for its gold and get me a real Seamaster. Hmmmmm.
 
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Dan S, Very Nice watch. Could you decipher why the “C” before the 2577 and at the end of it why 17SC what does the 17 mean and what does the SC mean in the seamaster world? I primarily work on Geneve Dynamics and these symbols do not come up in 500´s 600´s series I am familiar with. The only other seamaster I own is a 565.
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Dan S, Very Nice watch. Could you decipher why the “C” before the 2577 and at the end of it why 17SC what does the 17 mean and what does the SC mean in the seamaster world? I primarily work on Geneve Dynamics and these symbols do not come up in 500´s 600´s series I am familiar with. The only other seamaster I own is a 565.

17 refers to a batch number and SC generally refers to a center sweep second configuration. This is general for Omega from this era, not related to Seamasters specifically.