Hey hey!

I’m new to this seemingly limitless, and knowledgeable platform so first off I’d like to say hello

NOW, I’ve made the decision to “build” the 166.0173 Genève Automatic using some used and some NOS parts such as bracelet and case amongst other. I’ve started with the era-correct cal.1012 and some dials with NOS parts on the way. Enjoyed the world of watches for some time now but haven’t really dug into it since pretty recently.

My questions for today are:
- In the process of assembling everything, what should I be aware of? Just hit me with anything you can think of.
- Besides from a seemingly working and complete cal. 1012 with non-Genève dial, NOS bracelet, case, dial hands and crystal, what parts do I need? For example how is the movement held in place?

Now this one might upset some purists but one of the reasons for this project is to just understand watchmaking a bit more so try to bear with me. The dial on the 1012 is as I stated a non-Genève dial. I’ve got another dial which is correct but it’s kinda worn and smudgy (the left one). A quick google search tells me to leave it alone.

- Are there dials from different Genève references that might fit the cal.1012? I’d really like to have some nice, creamy patina and maybe some texture to it? You know get some depth and good contrast. I’ve looked for dials but they don’t come by the hundreds.

Also do I remove the crown stem wound or unwound?

Hopefully you managed to read this without getting bored. Really looking forward to your ideas and replies!

/ ranch

 

Dial on the left is poorly refinished, so why bother. As for other dials which will fit the movement, yes there are plenty, however the diameter of the dial determines IF it will fit the case, they come in many different diameters depending on the case they were intended for.

You will need to find a movement retainer ring for the specific case you are using, good luck.

Movement needs to be serviced, regardless of whether or not your movement is "seemingly working".

It's your money but you'd have been far better off if you had just bought a complete watch that you liked.

 

I agree that this is a waste of time and money, but if it seems fun to the OP, then I don't see the harm, as long as he doesn't start wrecking nice intact watches.

 

Got it, thanks!

Naturally the movement is being sent off for servicing. And naturally, I won’t start chopping up perfectly fine watches. If any even cross my path.

Regarding the waste of time, if I’m learning something I’m never wasting time. Regarding the waste of money, I have a different perspective. The ones I have seen for sale are usually overpriced, unserviced and not full set. A quick calculation shows that I would spend pretty much the same money, hardware-wise, except instead I would have a watch that looks and probably feels “new”.

If anyone knows where I could find one in good condition I’d be happy to check it out