Let me know if this belongs in the vintage forum, but I'm looking for some advice on buying a pre-ceramic SMP.

I have one luxury watch - a Rolex Datejust 41 owner, the rhodium dial version with a smooth bezel and oyster bracelet. I like it, but with the sunburst dial and polish/flash of the watch, which feels a bit too flashy and shiny/dressy for me at times especially with a lot of my business casual outfits, I've gained a desire to move back to watches with a pre-2000s/2010s aesthetic (i.e., pre-ceramic subs, Datejust 16234, and pre-ceramic Bond SMPs).

Long story short, I'm looking to buy a Bond Omega Seamaster in the form that is substantially the same as what was worn in the Brosnan Era / Casino Royale. The two models that have popped up based on a day of looking are the 2220.80 and the 2531.80. I understand the latter is the older, "OG" mechanical version and the former is a slightly updated version that was used on Casino Royale.

Of these two variants, is one much better than the other? I think the Casino Royale version is about $1k more than the Tomorrow Never Dies 2531.80.

Any buying tips / alternative pre-ceramic models that are superior would be greatly appreciated. I'm considering buying from Hodinkee or another one of the large websites like C&C or WatchBox, and I've never bought a used watch so I'm a bit concerned about using Chrono24, but any advice would be appreciated.

 

I would get the older one simply because the movement is not co-axial and can be serviced by more independent watchmakers. For instance, my watchmaker has an Omega parts account and will service the older non-coaxial movements, but he does not want to invest in extra training/tools to do the coaxial ones.

 

I would choose the Casino Royale version. It seems like a nicer blue color.

 

I agree. Better blue color overall.

 

If you want some tritium - go for the early 2531.80 (all 2220.80's have Supeluminova), other than that those two are pretty similar watches which differ in;
- hands length (longer at 2220.80),
- different shades of blue, different dials,
- a case back (more detailed but taller at 2220.80),
- due to a slightly taller bezel - 2220.80 in overall is slightly taller than 2531.80
- 1120 cal. vs 2500 cal. very late 2220.80's even have had 2500D hence a different date font.

If you will service them at Omega - a standard service fee is the same for mechanical non-chronograph calibres.
Everything else is subjective and only you can tell which watch is superior. I chose 2220.80 due to the longer hands and the red Seamaster which makes the dial more vivid.

Btw, I am poor in JB franchise, but wasn't a quartz 2541.80 featured in Tomorrow Never Dies?

 

I agree. The longer handset looks much better.

 

If you want good lume skip the Bond 2531.80, it is poor because of the skeleton hands. Check out the 2230.50. Known as the ‘non-AC’. IMHO it is the king of Seamasters. It even wears a gold crown (well bezel)