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KeyWestPaw
·I do almost all macro with Canon 100mm macro. Single shots. I have only done stacking w astrophotography. May have to try macro stacking. Hmm
Point Focus vs Stacking
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Aurelius
·I know this is at 6 year old topic, but I figured it'd be better than starting a new one on the same subject matter.
So, I've been using Helicon Focus and haven't been having good results. I think my setup is fine, and I have two good lenses as well.
The thing that confuses me is if I'm supposed to adjust focus and take a bunch of photos (20-30) trying to focus in on different parts of a dial, for example. Or just take a lot of pictures without adjusting focus and let the software figure it out.
I've also yet to figure out which settings are best in the software for watch dials / cases / movements.
Appreciate it if anyone can offer some input.
So, I've been using Helicon Focus and haven't been having good results. I think my setup is fine, and I have two good lenses as well.
The thing that confuses me is if I'm supposed to adjust focus and take a bunch of photos (20-30) trying to focus in on different parts of a dial, for example. Or just take a lot of pictures without adjusting focus and let the software figure it out.
I've also yet to figure out which settings are best in the software for watch dials / cases / movements.
Appreciate it if anyone can offer some input.
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Risto
·There are two ways to do stacking.
First is when you use focusing ring on the lens (manually or autofocus if camera allows) and focus from closest point to the furthest.
Second is when you use macro-rail and move camera from closest point to the furthest.
At every step you take a photo.
Depending on the depth of the scene, how close the subject is, and aperture you might take 20 or 200 shots.
Helicon Focus then stitches it together.
When you use wide aperture on the lens you need more shots. Also, macro lenses breath a lot, so wider aperture will result in artifacts if the scene is too deep (long).
First is when you use focusing ring on the lens (manually or autofocus if camera allows) and focus from closest point to the furthest.
Second is when you use macro-rail and move camera from closest point to the furthest.
At every step you take a photo.
Depending on the depth of the scene, how close the subject is, and aperture you might take 20 or 200 shots.
Helicon Focus then stitches it together.
When you use wide aperture on the lens you need more shots. Also, macro lenses breath a lot, so wider aperture will result in artifacts if the scene is too deep (long).
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Risto
·Also, when you stitch raw files in Helicon focus, it will take more time than when you have developed images on Camera Raw (or wherever) and use JPGs. You’ll have more dynamic range when stitching RAW and developing later. But for web it’s not important.
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Risto
·Btw, this is a sample of what I have shot lately.
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Harbormaster
·
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Risto
·Can't shoot images like this without stacking.
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Jetspeed
·
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Jetspeed
·Stacking is a neat trick but is fussy and takes real practice and patience. If you are serious about wanting the best results for product work like this (as in you can justify the expense for the camera gear) use a tilt shift/ PC (perspective control) lens and get it in a single shot.
A PC lens will give you simple controls akin to a view camera (large format camera) to control perspective (shift/rise/fall) and focus control (swings/tilts) which is how product photography has been done for decades. A real view camera (be it film or digital back) is the ideal way to have absolute control as you can use all movements simultaneously, but the DSLR PC lenses are a great tool and get you 80% there.
They aren’t cheap, but they do the job optically without relying on software to figure things out for you.
I use them on my Nikon’s for architectural work (19 & 24mm) and (45 & 85mm) for quick product work in the studio and even environmental portraits (when the architectural context is just as important as the person in the picture). Canon makes a line of them as well and adapters are available for use on Sony mirrorless.
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Aurelius
·There are two ways to do stacking.
First is when you use focusing ring on the lens (manually or autofocus if camera allows) and focus from closest point to the furthest.
Second is when you use macro-rail and move camera from closest point to the furthest.
At every step you take a photo.
Depending on the depth of the scene, how close the subject is, and aperture you might take 20 or 200 shots.
Helicon Focus then stitches it together.
When you use wide aperture on the lens you need more shots. Also, macro lenses breath a lot, so wider aperture will result in artifacts if the scene is too deep (long).
I've got quite a way to go to reach where I want to get to, but I'm trying to enjoy the process.
And kudos to you for sharing those brilliant shots!
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Jetspeed
·This is really great info. Thanks for taking the time to help me learn. My Sony A7V does focus stacking but goes from closers point ti furthest like you mentioned
I have a rail and I’m no excited to try the technique you mentioned in your reply.
Thanks again.
I have a rail and I’m no excited to try the technique you mentioned in your reply.
Thanks again.
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Risto
·Could you share your camera / lens you use as well?
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Jetspeed
·Lighting is what I’m having the most difficulty with. I’m using flash and have difficulty with setting the lighting mood. Any suggestions? What do you do?
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Risto
·I have some articles with behind the scenes info on my website: https://watchphotography.com/articles
Perhaps useful. I am using LED continuous light and paper reflectors mostly.
Perhaps useful. I am using LED continuous light and paper reflectors mostly.
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Jetspeed
·Excellent. I’ll check it out now. Thank you.
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Jetspeed
·Wow Risto, your website is AMAZING and also exactly what I was looking for. I have som many questions now. 😁
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Aurelius
·I have some articles with behind the scenes info on my website: https://watchphotography.com/articles
Perhaps useful. I am using LED continuous light and paper reflectors mostly.
