Ploprof 600 restoration ideas

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I had mine restored by @photo500

He did a service, and also converted from left to right. I bought a date wheel and sent that to him. He also rehabbed my case and painted my modern hands to match dial, which was not touched.

Search "Roll call: ploprof" on this message board. Lots of ploprof info in that thread.

Welcome to OF



What a stunning watch Taddyangle!

I think I’m going to have it serviced now and leave it the way it is. Later, I will get a dial and hands in better shape to rejuvenate the watch and keep the originals in a safe place.

@photo500 did a great job there. Do you think he could service mine? Nice to have a recommendation, thank you!
 
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I’m not sure about it. I know my dad is lefty and wears all his watches on his right hand. I am assuming he have this watch assembled the “lefty way”. He is now close to 80 years old and is not a convincing historian anymore...

My understanding (and I know nothing about this watch) is that there was no “inverse Ploprof” watch from the factory. All of them were fabricated and assembled with the crown at 9pm.... later one can have it configured to the “lefty” assembly.

I guess I will figure out once the watch is opened

Check the links in my replies, both mention and show pictures of the watch coming already in the configuration your watch is in.
 
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What a stunning watch Taddyangle!

I think I’m going to have it serviced now and leave it the way it is. Later, I will get a dial and hands in better shape to rejuvenate the watch and keep the originals in a safe place.

@photo500 did a great job there. Do you think he could service mine? Nice to have a recommendation, thank you!

Reach out to him. He is in Australia.

There could be other watchmakers, but I'm not aware of any that have specific experience with the ploprof. Make sure who ever you send it to has previous and verifiable experience with these watches.

I think you have the right idea to service and leave as is.
 
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Interes
Check the links in my replies, both mention and show pictures of the watch coming already in the configuration your watch is in.


Interesting, Are those inverse PloProfs more rare then?

I am lefty, and as my dad I wear my watches on the right hand. BUT! The PloProf was designed with the bezel button at 1o’clock..this was is easily operated. When the button is on the 8o’clock position not so much. If mine ends up being a lefty from factory I will leave it this way, otherwise, despite me being lefty, I would have it reassemble the right way...

Thank you so much!
 
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Take a look at this thread. Photo500 is Omega certified and has access to parts and official information that we can only dream of.
https://omegaforums.net/threads/ploprof-case-orientation-the-final-word.89393/
Thanx for this link, I have updated the thread with my info. Francisco`s watch are maybe more desirable, than you think, if it is a factory destro.... as based on the info form J.Wallis book everybody was inverting back do lefty, but this was probably a nice unintended hoax :😀
 
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Thanx for this link, I have updated the thread with my info. Francisco`s watch are maybe more desirable, than you think, if it is a factory destro.... as based on the info form J.Wallis book everybody was inverting back do lefty, but this was probably a nice unintended hoax :😀

john wallis didn't know anything about ploprof and was just guessing. over the last year new info was provided at the page i mentioned.
maybe you should use your time to read it instead of posting twice the same nonsense (the repetition doesn't make it more true 😁 )
 
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Well, I've just closed one up for a customer and it's the only one I've seen, so have a sample size of one... It was exactly as I expected.

To @Francisco S - if you want to stay in your own continent, I would try reaching out to Al at Archer watches - @Archer on this forum. He hardly needs any recommendation from me and may be too busy but, you can see his knowledge all over the forum and the fact that he does many, many vintage Omegas. If he doesn't have time, he may be able to recommend someone in USA for you.

I hope it all works out and look forward to the final result.👍

Cheers, Chris
 
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Bringing the watch back to live, UPDATE:

So I left the watch a
I do know of some people. I haven’t given them anything vintage (since I don’t currently own anything vintage), but they seem to know their stuff. When I met them, one was wearing an old Seamaster with a cal 321 in it. They also told me their business is primarily in vintage watches. No guarantees, but I think these may be good guys. Just search Gehan and Doherty watchmaking. They’re located in Sandy Hook, CT


So I took the watch to this shop (Gehan & Doherty Watchmaking) and left it for an estimate on the work needed; they are 10 miles away from my job so it is very convenient. They called me yesterday with the good news that the mechanism is not totaled, it is in good shape and other than replacement o-rings, gaskets and spacers it should need not much more, perhaps the replacement of a couple of rusted bolts.

He told me that the case is the standard one, the crown should be located at the 9 o'clock position, so this is not an "Inverse" Ploprof. But what surprised me the most is that it has a Calibre 1001 instead of a 1002.

He told me he took a few pictures, I will post them as soon as I get them.

Thank you for all your recommendations!
Edited:
 
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Are all these PloProfs linked by the ley lines or some other mystical system? 2 hours after I sent a PloProf out (the only one I've ever worked on) plus 30 minutes after I posted some pictures on Instagram and you've given an update on your watch😲😉

Great to hear it's coming together. The calibre number is on the auto bridge so, you probably have a replacement auto bridge although, I read somewhere that as they can be a pain to service, back in the day, these movements were often swapped out at the factory. I can't see they would have fitted a different calibre though, if that were the case.

Good luck with it and will be interested to see the result.

Regards, Chris
 
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Are all these PloProfs linked by the ley lines or some other mystical system? 2 hours after I sent a PloProf out (the only one I've ever worked on) plus 30 minutes after I posted some pictures on Instagram and you've given an update on your watch😲😉

Great to hear it's coming together. The calibre number is on the auto bridge so, you probably have a replacement auto bridge although, I read somewhere that as they can be a pain to service, back in the day, these movements were often swapped out at the factory. I can't see they would have fitted a different calibre though, if that were the case.

Good luck with it and will be interested to see the result.

Regards, Chris

Chris I've also read that back in the day the swap from a 1002 to a 1001 during services was not uncommon. Perhaps this is what happened. The calibre 1001 is a Chronograph and 1002 is a non-chronograph. Newby assumption here: I assume that watchmaker would be able to tell the difference and tell me whether this is actually a chronograph (cal. 1001) or it is in fact a 1002 with the auto bridge of a 1001?

I forgot to mention something what I consider as a little bit of a bad news. He mentioned that the piece where the serial # is engraved was replaced at some point and that the replacement doe not have a serial #.... I am not sure if my dad still has the documentation of this watch and I was really hoping to dig on the story of it using the serial number.
 
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Are all these PloProfs linked by the ley lines or some other mystical system? 2 hours after I sent a PloProf out (the only one I've ever worked on) plus 30 minutes after I posted some pictures on Instagram and you've given an update on your watch😲😉

Great to hear it's coming together. The calibre number is on the auto bridge so, you probably have a replacement auto bridge although, I read somewhere that as they can be a pain to service, back in the day, these movements were often swapped out at the factory. I can't see they would have fitted a different calibre though, if that were the case.

Good luck with it and will be interested to see the result.

Regards, Chris



What's your IG ID? I want to see that watch
 
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Chris I've also read that back in the day the swap from a 1002 to a 1001 during services was not uncommon. Perhaps this is what happened. The calibre 1001 is a Chronograph and 1002 is a non-chronograph. Newby assumption here: I assume that watchmaker would be able to tell the difference and tell me whether this is actually a chronograph (cal. 1001) or it is in fact a 1002 with the auto bridge of a 1001?

I forgot to mention something what I consider as a little bit of a bad news. He mentioned that the piece where the serial # is engraved was replaced at some point and that the replacement doe not have a serial #.... I am not sure if my dad still has the documentation of this watch and I was really hoping to dig on the story of it using the serial number.
Hi Francisco

The serial number is on the train bridge and the caliber number is on the auto bridge. Without checking thoroughly, regarding part differences between 1001 and 1002:
Both have the 1000 as the base calibre so, most parts are from that.
The 1002 has a 1002 train bridge (as it has the calibre number!). The 10001 obviously has a specific 1001 bridge saying "1001".
The 1002 has a 1001 lower bridge for the auto (it fits under the auto bridge).

That's it... So, the 1002 only differs from the 1001 because of the upper auto bridge where the calibre number is written - all wheels and parts are identical in the parts lists now. I wouldn't read any more into this than you probably just have a replacement bridge. Not sure how your watchmaker knows the train bridge with serial has been changed as you can't tell unless the colour is a little different - let's see. EDIT - I now see you're missing a serial number and that's how he knows - sorry.

My Instagram is here: https://www.instagram.com/chris_at_cjnwatch/
Only a few pictures of that watch - I have a lot of the movement but it isn't mine and don't want to show lots of pictures of a customer's watch. He was happy that I put some up though.

Cheers, Chris
 
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So this are some pictures showing a watch that hasn’t been opened for over 20 years. Some rust damage product of a missing seal . Luckily they told me they were able to restore it and bringing back to life
 
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Wow, that is one lovely Ploprof! As many said, I would get the case and bracelet ultrasonically cleaned but not refinished. The movement fully service and the dial I would probably leave as is. Not easy to get the lume 'cleaned', and I personally would;t get it relumed (but that's a personal preference). Either way good luck with it and keep us posted!
 
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So this are some pictures showing a watch that hasn’t been opened for over 20 years. Some rust damage product of a missing seal . Luckily they told me they were able to restore it and bringing back to life
Make sure you get a new crown/seals or, as a minimum crown seals. Should be nice when sorted.

Cheers, Chris
 
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So excited for You Francisco. Thanks for sharing the photos of this process.
 
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So I finally got it back, after 20 years being dead in a safe box, the watch is back lo life and is ticking nicely; it just needed new o-rings, a spacer was missing, some gunk and junk cleaned and that was basically it.

I ended up just servicing it, no cosmetic changes whatsoever. It is a Mark I from 1971 in its original state. I think they told me the caliber was a 1001 instead of a 1002. Is this common? Anyway, my plan is to keep it as it is today: “My Dad’s Watch”

@drhombus24 thank you for the recommendation of G&D Watchmakers, they did great job. (they have a couple of pictures of this watch in their IG account: @gdwatchmacking)
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