Please recommend a chronograph

TexasMather · Dec 10, 2023

I'm interested in acquiring a really great chronograph. I'm familiar with many and have a couple in mind, but I still have a lot to learn and I don't want to overlook something special. I'm hoping some members might please suggest their personal favorites. The parameters for the search are:
- Under $30K. (trying to avoid simply soliciting grail level $200K Datographs, Royal Oaks, and 5970s)
- Chronograph of any type (column wheel or cam, vertical or lateral clutch)
- Exhibition caseback to appreciate the movement
- May or may not include other complications such as date, calendars, etc
- Manual wind is ideal to show the movement but open to automatic with nice finishing
- Resell value is irrelevant. Aiming for permanent collection.
-Vintage or new is okay.
-Max size of 42mm. Min size of 37mm

Any suggestions or links are greatly appreciated! Thank you all!

sathomasga · Dec 10, 2023

Well, a Seagull 1963 meets all your criteria.

Finding a vintage chronograph with an exhibition caseback sounds awfully difficult. There are some pretty obvious modern ones: Speedmaster, Zenith, Breitling, etc. Are you looking for something a little less known?

Edited to add: That wasn't meant to disparage Seagull. I own a Seagull 1963 and love it.

Scarecrow Boat · Dec 10, 2023

Well, considering you started this thread:
https://omegaforums.net/threads/proof-that-the-speedmaster-is-superior-to-the-daytona.166376/

I think you have your answer

And if you already have one… well, one isn’t enough. Just add another. We all know Omega made plenty to choose from

TexasMather · Dec 10, 2023

Scarecrow Boat
Well, considering you started this thread:
https://omegaforums.net/threads/proof-that-the-speedmaster-is-superior-to-the-daytona.166376/

I think you have your answer And if you already have one… well, one isn’t enough. Just add another. We all know Omega made plenty to choose from

Tis true I started that thread, but alas I am thinking more broadly than Speedy vs Daytona. There are many other chronographs in this world, some even more grand than the aforementioned pair. Of course, my mind is firmly made up between that famous duo, but I would be shortsighted to not consult the good gentlemen in this forum about other top tier options!

TexasMather · Dec 10, 2023

sathomasga
Well, a Seagull 1963 meets all your criteria.

Finding a vintage chronograph with an exhibition caseback sounds awfully difficult. There are some pretty obvious modern ones: Speedmaster, Zenith, Breitling, etc. Are you looking for something a little less known?

Edited to add: That wasn't meant to disparage Seagull. I own a Seagull 1963 and love it.

I've never looked at this watch before, thank you! Looks suspiciously inexpensive for such a movement! Fantastic deal, but wondering what the catch is?

wagudc · Dec 10, 2023

TexasMather
Fantastic deal, but wondering what the catch is?

It is cheap because it is a Chinese made movement. That doesn't necessarily mean it is particularly. Baltic watches use the in some of their models.

If I had a 5 figures to spend on a watch, I would go for the new Ed White in stainless or a Zenith Chronomaster El Primero.

TexasMather · Dec 10, 2023

Thank you! The 321 is definitely top consideration! Will likely take me years to get an allocation or I can roll the dice on C24.

GuiltyGear · Dec 10, 2023

If I had that budget, I'd pick up an original A386 El Primero, of course with a ladder bracelet. Iconic and a super special (imo) chronograph.

TexasMather · Dec 10, 2023

GuiltyGear
If I had that budget, I'd pick up an original A386 El Primero, of course with a ladder bracelet. Iconic and a super special (imo) chronograph.

El Primero certainly a top choice as well. I'm pretty ignorant of the variations over the years of the El Primero. I only know that it was the among the earliest (if not the first?) automatic chronograph, set a new standard in accuracy, and that Rolex used the movements in the Daytona for many years. But there have been many over the years and I still have a lot to learn.

One of my favorites that I've seen seems tremendously undervalued to me:

I believe this triple calendar variation trades for around $5K. This seems like a lot of watch from an iconic maker, but somehow doesn't cost a fortune like so many competitors. I'm unsure why. Seems under appreciated to me.

sonicosa · Dec 10, 2023

JLC Master Control Chronograph Calendar. I was able to try this watch in late last year and thought it was really incredible.

The gold versions also look like great options if you can stretch your budget by 10%.

https://www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/us...chronograph-calendar-stainless-steel-q413813j

STANDY · Dec 10, 2023

Watch my Whisky · Dec 10, 2023

These threads remind me of my friend who went to a tattoo parlour and asked the artist what he recommended.

Anyway, what about a VC Overseas?

BAJJ · Dec 11, 2023

Glashutte Original, something different?

Screenshot_2023-12-11-08-28-52-202_com.android.chrome.jpg

Larry S · Dec 11, 2023

sonicosa
JLC Master Control Chronograph Calendar. I was able to try this watch in late last year and thought it was really incredible.

The gold versions also look like great options if you can stretch your budget by 10%.

https://www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/us...chronograph-calendar-stainless-steel-q413813j

If I was going to dive into another modern watch, this would be the one.

DirtyDozen12 · Dec 11, 2023

If you are into chronograph movements, both of these are worth a look. First is the Roger Dubuis caliber RD680. It has a column wheel, a vertical clutch whose engagement can actually be seen, the Geneva Seal, and a micro rotor. This caliber usually came in huge (44 mm) watches but I linked to an example below that is 42 mm. Second is Glashutte Original caliber 61, I believe. This movement has a column wheel, lateral clutch, and a flyback function. These can typically be found in 39 mm cases. See an example in platinum further below.

Source: https://www.instagram.com/p/B1ezu6Uncg8/