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Please opinion for buy Speedmaster 105.002-62

M
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Hello OMEGA Forums everyone.

I don't speak English.
Please forgive my strange English.
This message uses a translation service.
Please send me a message in very simple and easy (elementary school level) English.

I am thinking of buying a watch.
I found the watch in this picture.
It is a Speedmaster 105.002-62.
The price of this watch is US$9100.
The serial number is 19584631.
What I think about this watch is that 'the tension ring on the windshield is not silver' and 'the pushers are 5mm'.
What else is different from the original?
Please point out if I disagree with you.
Is US$9100 a reasonable price in this condition?

Thank you.
 
IMG20200804181556.jpg IMG20200804181043.jpg IMG20200804181007.jpg IMG20200804181235.jpg IMG20200804181318.jpg IMG20200804182224.jpg IMG20200804181341.jpg IMG20200804181359.jpg IMG20200804181934.jpg IMG20200804181149.jpg IMG20200808212754.jpg IMG20200808212832.jpg s-l400-5.jpg s-l1600-2.jpg
STANDY
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Case is worn

This shot says it all
2BF77EC2-5E45-4889-BFEE-2031ECCF6364.jpeg
 
padders
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gbesq gbesq
https://speedmaster101.com/price-chart-2/
To my eye, the watch is in poor condition.
...which there is no price for, but note the v similar 2998-62 is $9k for poor so you could argue it’s in the ballpark. That’s a tricky watch to price. It’s a bad example of a rare and desirable short lived iteration.
 
Caliber561
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The profile of the crystal strikes me as oddly low, and I don't see the Omega logo so it could be an off-brand replacement – but to be honest I'm not really sure.
In regards to general condition, I feel like the pictures may have a bit of blue saturation, so in person, the lume may not look as bad as it seems.
 
eugeneandresson
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Regarding the price : find another, better, cheaper.
Regarding the serial number : that’s an early serial number, and should have alpha hands (I have seen several very close to that SN with Alohas)...I would expect that one also to have alphas. That said, there is no official known range to definitively say what SNs for which hands...current thinking is earlier SNs with alphas, later with batons...split roughly in the middle (but it could also be that there were more with batons than alphas for example).
Dial is correct.
Case is acceptable and 95% of 2998 cases (that I have seen, and I am not an expert, just a diseased collector) look like this.
If you can afford it, and you like it, and you think it will bring you pleasure on your wrist (and that’s the only ‘investment’ and return you are looking to make) then go for it.
 
airansun
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The pushers are wrong, the bezel is shot. As @eugeneandresson said, the unattractive hands are very likely wrong for the serial number. As @STANDY said, the case is quite worn.

To me, the best part about this watch is the caseback (from what I can tell). I wonder how tired the movement is.

It’ll never be really right, no matter how much money you throw at it. Nor will it have collector value. And, it’s gonna be a hard watch to resell, should you ever have the need.

I say, “No.”

To me, one of THE most common newbie mistakes, is buying a beat up, inexpensive example of a reference that, in decent condition, is out of their reach.
Edited:
 
kip595
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airansun airansun
The pushers are wrong, the bezel is shot. As @eugeneandresson said, the unattractive hands are very likely wrong for the serial number. As @STANDY said, the case is quite worn.

To me, the best part about this watch is the caseback (from what I can tell). I wonder how tired the movement is.
...

To me, one of THE most common newbie mistakes, is buying a beat up, nexpensive example of a reference that, in decent condition, is out of their reach.

I kinda did this backwards once; had a chance to buy a not beat up, near perfect 16520 Daytona years ago and said to myself, what I really want is the Paul Newman style (how I still thought of it then), decided I would be 'settling', and waited...and have dismissed either happening anytime soon!

To the O.P.: if you love THIS Speedy as is, it might be okay for you. To someone who wants the best possible example, that would definitely be a 'filler' watch for the collection, at best.
 
watchyouwant
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Offer 8600 and see, what happens.... Offer netto to the seller. But make sure, that the outer case rim at 12 o'clock is not rusted/pitted and it is only gunk from the seal there. Too much corrosion would kill it for me. The rest can be corrected, incl. The right hands. Good luck ! Kind regards. Achim
 
watchyouwant
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And do not forget to replace the balance cock screw ! That is maybe the most concerning thing to me......they do not fall out......
 
airansun
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watchyouwant watchyouwant
And do not forget to replace the balance cock screw ! That is maybe the most concerning thing to me......they do not fall out......

Can't believe I missed that!
 
M
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watchyouwant watchyouwant
Offer 8600 and see, what happens.... Offer netto to the seller. But make sure, that the outer case rim at 12 o'clock is not rusted/pitted and it is only gunk from the seal there. Too much corrosion would kill it for me. The rest can be corrected, incl. The right hands. Good luck ! Kind regards. Achim

Thank you for your reply, watchyouwant.

Sorry.I do not understand the message you wrote.
Why 8500? Does 8500 mean US$8500?
Do I say 'Please discount to $8500' to seller?
Is the correct price for this watch at $8,500?
I don't even understand the meaning of 'Offer netto to the seller'.
What is 'netto'?
What happens when I offer 'netto' to a seller?

I don't think there's any rust or dents on the outside of the case on the 12 side.
I don't know if the balance cock screws have been replaced, but the overhaul was done 18 months ago.

Sorry. I don't speak and understand English.
Thanks.
 
eugeneandresson
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airansun airansun
The pushers are wrong

Only questions I have there : are those press-fit or threaded (my guess would be the latter), and was the case modded to take them (hopefully not) as it should be for the old style pushers.
 
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