Yesterday, I received @Pahawi 's Speedie Caseback Opener and I am very impressed with it. Solid brass, 6 exact points of contact, 6 oz. in weight. It even has a through hole to insert a screwdriver should you need extra torque. Best of all, it not only fits Speedie Moonwatches but lines up with Seamasters as well. SM 300, 2913, 165.024 and even the smaller SM 120, 165.027 all open safely, scratch free, with this tool. Highly recommended! Much better and safer than the cheap, adjustable variety.
The price is $90 + shipping (I’m located in Denmark), which leaves a $15 profit for my “buy-more-watches” account So far I’ve done a total of 8 with one or two at a time – should the demand change, I’ll of course be able to do them at a lower price. With Marc’s discovery that it fits other casebacks too, it might be worth doing them in a larger scale……
My original Omega one also fits many Seiko's including the larger divers, I would imagine your brass one would fit exactly the same
@Pahawi Please, I implore you .... If you have any decency .... do not sell me one at any price. I have no business opening up a Speedmaster, or any other watch for that matter. Nothing good will come of it.
From what I understand this is actually a lease arrangement. You lease device from @Pahawi for $90. per year + shipping. Each time you open your Speedmaster there is an additional lease use fee of $10.00
I wonder if these will also open Seamaster 176.007 casebacks. Anyone have any lying around (or can anyone tell me the precise distance between 2 opposing, erm, thingies and the width of said thingies?)
Someone (I forget who) on TZ-UK produced a batch of these a few years ago, using a hard plastic material (Delrin?). It was taller and double ended. I have one and it's a great job. Just a suggestion; Delrin works fine and may be less expensive and easier to machine. It certainly won't mark a case.
Yes, plastic is an option too and will work on lots of watches, but if a caseback is as stock as one of mine was, the "teeth" on the tool WILL give just a tad and try to climb away from the grooves in the caseback. The milling/handle hassle will be pretty much the same, so why not use the safer brass...... I do low cost injection moulds for a living, so if I believed on plastic for this, it would be pretty easy for me to do a mould for them, and sell them for cheap, but due to the above mentioned issue, I wont.