One and done: Submariner?

Posts
664
Likes
661
The good news is that you can't go wrong with any of the 5 digit subs. 😀 I think you'll be really happy with just about any of them from a cost and wearability standpoint.

I lean towards a 5 digit (14060 or 16610) so I can get the combo of modern and vintage. But even within that, say the 14060…. Tritium or Luminova? Lug holes or no? 14060 or 14060M? Or that area around 2001 where you have the combo of hole case but SEL? So many options!

Personally, I went with an early production 14060M, 2-liner. I prefer the symmetry of the no-date dial and the nod in the aesthetic to original Sub. (I also don't have time/desire to set the date on my other watches when I put them on in the morning, so having an option that eliminates the date complication was a bonus for me)
Since I already have an early 90's Speedmaster with creamy tritium plots & hands, and more of a matte finish on the dial, that one scratches the itch for a vintage looking, black dial sports watch in my collection. So for the Sub, I wanted something a little more modern looking and opted for bright white of luminova on the hands/markers.
Leaning into the 'less is more' theme of the no-date, I opted for the aesthetic of the 2-line dial over the later 4-line dial.
Keep in mind that none of the 5-digit no-date Submariners can be fitted with SEL bracelets. They lack the recess in the case, like the later model 16610 Subs. I would say that was the one compromise I had to make with my no-date Sub. I *really* wanted the SEL bracelet since I have a few other 5-digit watches on SEL bracelets. They just look and feel much nicer on a modern Rolex.

How thick is your wrist? The bracelets that come on most of the 5-digit subs have a long(ish) clasp and require 5 oyster links, at a minimum on the 6'clock side of the bracelet. If you have a skinny wrist like me, that results in the clasp...or case not being centered on your wrist. It's disappointing to spend that much money on a watch and not have it fit/sit well on your wrist. If you have a skinny wrist, I can share what I did to overcome the misalignment of the case/clasp. If your wrist is 6.75" or bigger it probably won't be an issue for you and I won't clutter your thread with a solution for something that won't be a problem for you. 😀
Edited:
 
Posts
510
Likes
945
How about the later-model gloss-dial 5513 sold in the 80s and 90s?
Personally, I like the 5513 maxi dial.
 
Posts
1,307
Likes
2,487
It can be a one and done: ref. 16610. Anything newer is literal jewelery in my eyes where this older reference is new enough to be absolutely wearable and fit for all purposes and still retains the most important features that made the Submariner great. Look for one from about 2001 to about 2007: drilled lugs, plain rehaut, Superluminova, aluminum bezel insert, sapphire crystal, venerable cal. 3135, great size.
 
Posts
1,965
Likes
9,409
Thanks, all!
@blueteg - Thanks for the detailed response, you cleared up one of my questions. I thought the early 2000s models with the weird combo of SEL and holes cases went across both the 14060 and 16610 models. I didnt realize it was limited to the 16610. That makes it harder still 😒

@Dan S - yeah .... I may not be able to limit it to a one-and-done. Trying to avoid this as the last thing I need is to "collect" Submariners, I love chasing variants and cant afford that many Subs lol.

I am leaning towards a 14060M and scratching the neo-vintage itch with a 16750 GMT for a date model as I put together my revised collection. But I am so tempted to try a single 16610 and see if I can do the one and done....

I'll take as many more comments and opinions as I can get from owners. I know, these "what watch should I buy" threads can be tedious but the collective wisdom really helps guide me and point out questions I need to ask myself, so again THANKS!
 
Posts
50
Likes
202
A lot of really nice responses already, I can hardly add anything else.

My vote would be to pick up the best condition as your budget allows 14060m 2-liner with luminova.

4-digits are great, but can be a minefield if you don’t know what to look for condition and dial/hand wise.

2 liner subs are more interesting to me since they just look so clean and utilitarian. I highly doubt Rolex will ever go back to them so 2-liners will remain rare in a sea of 4-liners as time goes on.

14060 tritium dials are nice and will always have the cool patina factor, however, down the road Rolex may not want to service them without changing the dial to LumiNova. At that point, you’ll have to go independent and there may be a risk that the tritium lume deteriorates/crumbles during service.

While it does not patina, LumiNova is the more practical choice imo.

At the end of the day, can’t go wrong with any 5 digit sub or SD.
 
Posts
5,980
Likes
20,535
Tim at fogcityvintage also posted a nice one on IG recently, and his prices are generally pretty fair for a dealer.
https://www.instagram.com/p/C1bDgn6ryxd/

🥰 That is unbelievable!

EDIT: Sold

This 16610 looks nice and is available for $8650.
If you decided on date, then this could be the one.

But that two line no date 14060 was a beauty.


(I confess to briefly thinking about buying it myself).


https://www.fogcityvintage.com/product/1990-rolex-ref-16610-submariner/
Edited:
 
Posts
23,140
Likes
51,648
I have a feeling that the 16610 has luminova service hands.
 
Posts
2,803
Likes
5,889
👍 the colour should not differ that much ---- also the 5513...
 
Posts
1,258
Likes
2,734
For me later 5513 with glossy dial and plastic crystal seems like the best of both worlds. A bit modern with WGS markers and you still get the vintage vibe with plastic crystal, very robust.
 
Posts
247
Likes
261
I dunno, once you get a taste of 4 digit Rolex, are you really one and done?
 
Posts
1,965
Likes
9,409
I dunno, once you get a taste of 4 digit Rolex, are you really one and done?
Yeah thats my worry too. My personality is not usually a one and done so this may be a bad idea... lol

Yes, as @pdxleaf mentions, I'm still struggling with heart vs mind; pretty sure I really want the vintage look, but my practical side says go more modern and save future hassle. But some of that is residual trauma from a troublesome 321 that is still giving me fits...

5 digit with matte dials; 16800 is about it, correct? I think if I end up with a WGS dial I wont be able to do a single, the matte dial will always haunt me. 😉
 
Posts
23,140
Likes
51,648
5 digit with matte dials; 16800 is about it, correct?
For Subs, that's correct. The early 16800s had matte dials with painted markers.
 
Posts
247
Likes
261
5 digits will also get you a quickset movement which is a somewhat underrated QOL difference.
 
Posts
58
Likes
150
My choice: no date, Tritium and with holes and the old "rattle-bracelet" (Count he segments and check the stretch before buying!). But you should know, that the T<25 Tritium is dead. Go ahead! 👍


Prices are IMHO low....
Absolutely! That´s what I have, an old 14060 2-liner, bought new in 1996, still my everyday watch, "jingly-jangly" bracelet (I love i!) and all. According to my AD bracelet stretch is still quite acceptable. A tough-as-nails, superbly reliable watch. And yes, the tritium lume is dead, but I don´t care! Highly recommended if one can be found in good condition...many have had a hard life, like mine!
 
Posts
5,980
Likes
20,535
Absolutely! That´s what I have, an old 14060 2-liner, bought new in 1996, still my everyday watch, "jingly-jangly" bracelet (I love i!) and all....

Would love a picture (or two)!