OMG are all watch makers buff wheel happy?

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At the risk of being kicked off this forum I'm going to have to say that I think the watch looks better now than it did before. The residue from the caseback looks so old and crusty I would not want it touching my skin. Really glad he didn't polish the whole thing though.
 
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At the risk of being kicked off this forum I'm going to have to say that I think the watch looks better now than it did before. The residue from the caseback looks so old and crusty I would not want it touching my skin. Really glad he didn't polish the whole thing though.
That made me smile. I think they will let you stay.
 
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And to speak to Archer’s former point about brushing the back, when I got my OPD the back was dented so I sourced another date correct back which has been polished. My crafty friend who did the cosmetic restoration brushed the back center ala Rolex style and it really looks sensational- shame nobody sees it but me when I take it off.
 
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And to speak to Archer’s former point about brushing the back, when I got my OPD the back was dented so I sourced another date correct back which has been polished. My crafty friend who did the cosmetic restoration brushed the back center ala Rolex style and it really looks sensational- shame nobody sees it but me when I take it off.
That looks stunning. I wouldn’t trust myself to do it. Does anyone have the name of someone that can do this?
 
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It’s time for a new watchmaker. Today I got my Omega Dynamic that I had sent to have serviced. WTF, is it too much to ask that my watch not come back scratched up. Plus it’s not even aligned on the bracelet correctly. This watch was in excellent condition and there were no scratches on the case brushing. I’m posting the results with pictures on the omega thread but man please someone help me with a good watchmaker.
Cheers,
Steve
 
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I ran into a similar problem with my watchmaker scratching a little paint off my 69 Speedy. Hands were in mint condition, now just good condition. Needless to say I’ll never be going back to her.
 
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That looks stunning. I wouldn’t trust myself to do it. Does anyone have the name of someone that can do this?

Any watchmaker who has had training from Rolex on refinishing can do this, and likely many more who haven't. Applying a straight grain finish like this is about the easiest thing you can do, and most watchmakers would have learned this technique in school, likely while being required to make some tooling project. For me it was when I was required to make a balance tack:



In the Rolex training I've had they identified particular Rolex emery papers for refinishing case backs - one for steel and a different one for PM cases. Rolex is very anal about how you accomplish things, which is why they have their own Rolex-specific Menzerna polishing compounds, and when using a buffing machine they give you actual RPM's to use for different operations so that with the sizes of bugffs they specify, you will get the correct surface speed. So the specific emery cloth is not generally available as far as I know, so you would have to find an appropriate abrasive. It's a long time ago now, but that balance tack I believe was done with maybe 1500 grit paper...maybe...

So to straight grain the case back, you need a sheet of abrasive paper, a good surface to lay it on, a straight edge, and something to control the rotation of the case back. So Rolex recommend using one of those aluminum clip boards as the primary surface, and laying a thin rubber mat underneath. You then clip the abrasive paper to that, and refinish the back. I've used a glass sheet, but this requires the case back to be perfectly flat, so something with a bit of compliance to it isn't a bad idea. In my current set-up, I use one of those mats that quilters use for cutting out squares, etc., and they can be found at craft stores - they give just enough, but not too much:



So for the purposes of these demo pics, I'll just mock this up on my main bench, because I'm not in the mood to go to the other part of the shop right now and clean it up to take photos...

So here is a case back (for demo purposes only) and a standard Bergeon 4040 movement holder that many watchmakers use:



You mount the case back in the holder like so:



Let's pretend for a minute that the bench mat has the abrasive paper mounted to it, and that this piece of wood is a good straight edge. You invert the case back in the holder, keep it tight to the straight edge, put some pressure on it, and draw it down in the direction of the arrow:



When you get here, you are done:



The key is not to let the case back rotate, so that's why we use the movement holder and a fairly tall straight edge to make sure everything is in a straight line. This is honestly so easy it's almost something anyone can do with a bit of jury rigging. Of course I would use a good steel or other rigid straight edge, and make sure nothing can move around. Then it's just a matter of finding the right grit of paper to closely reproduce the Rolex straight grain. If any watchmaker you are using can't do this, well I'm not sure I would trust them to work on a movement.

Cheers, Al
 
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PM me because I think I would like to have you work on my watches.
Steve
Actually THIS would be my definition of cocky... 🤦

BTW I would beware of any watchmaker that will chase after you to get your work. That means they are not busy, which is not a good thing.
 
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Any watchmaker who has had training from Rolex on refinishing can do this, and likely many more who haven't. Applying a straight grain finish like this is about the easiest thing you can do, and most watchmakers would have learned this technique in school, likely while being required to make some tooling project. For me it was when I was required to make a balance tack:



In the Rolex training I've had they identified particular Rolex emery papers for refinishing case backs - one for steel and a different one for PM cases. Rolex is very anal about how you accomplish things, which is why they have their own Rolex-specific Menzerna polishing compounds, and when using a buffing machine they give you actual RPM's to use for different operations so that with the sizes of bugffs they specify, you will get the correct surface speed. So the specific emery cloth is not generally available as far as I know, so you would have to find an appropriate abrasive. It's a long time ago now, but that balance tack I believe was done with maybe 1500 grit paper...maybe...

So to straight grain the case back, you need a sheet of abrasive paper, a good surface to lay it on, a straight edge, and something to control the rotation of the case back. So Rolex recommend using one of those aluminum clip boards as the primary surface, and laying a thin rubber mat underneath. You then clip the abrasive paper to that, and refinish the back. I've used a glass sheet, but this requires the case back to be perfectly flat, so something with a bit of compliance to it isn't a bad idea. In my current set-up, I use one of those mats that quilters use for cutting out squares, etc., and they can be found at craft stores - they give just enough, but not too much:



So for the purposes of these demo pics, I'll just mock this up on my main bench, because I'm not in the mood to go to the other part of the shop right now and clean it up to take photos...

So here is a case back (for demo purposes only) and a standard Bergeon 4040 movement holder that many watchmakers use:



You mount the case back in the holder like so:



Let's pretend for a minute that the bench mat has the abrasive paper mounted to it, and that this piece of wood is a good straight edge. You invert the case back in the holder, keep it tight to the straight edge, put some pressure on it, and draw it down in the direction of the arrow:



When you get here, you are done:



The key is not to let the case back rotate, so that's why we use the movement holder and a fairly tall straight edge to make sure everything is in a straight line. This is honestly so easy it's almost something anyone can do with a bit of jury rigging. Of course I would use a good steel or other rigid straight edge, and make sure nothing can move around. Then it's just a matter of finding the right grit of paper to closely reproduce the Rolex straight grain. If any watchmaker you are using can't do this, well I'm not sure I would trust them to work on a movement.

Cheers, Al
Thank you Archer. That is a great illustration. Thanks for taking the time to show me!
Steve
 
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My guy also refuses to do cosmetic work. He will do beat crystal but won’t do dial or cases. I appreciate that maybe it upsets some people but I see he has a lot of omegas etc on his bench. He would do some brushing if you sort of begged but he has had people ask for mirror type finishes and he will say no and offer just the service. I did almost find someone else onetime. He had my constellation for too long and when I called to see what was up he said good thing you called it was in the wrong place. He is a little old though and been doing it for 40 or so years so I decided since I make mistakes I could forgive him