Omega Speedmaster Reduced Cal 3220 winding question

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Hi Folks!

I had my Speedy Reduced serviced by Omega and I noticed that sometimes, the watch wouldn't start even after manually winding it 40+ times. Once I gave it a gentle tap / shake, it would then start.

I took it back to the AD and the salesperson told me thats normal, and tapping/shaking it is the solution here

I guess I'm not too happy about that answer since none of my automatic watches have this issue. Coming to you folks to maybe learn why this is the case from a mechanical point of view? and do ya'll have similar experience with your automatic Omegas?

Much appreciated!
 
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It is not uncommon for high-beat watches to fail to start with winding, after being allowed to run down and stop. I suggest you may have to live with it, or don’t allow it to run down.
 
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Don’t forget the reduced has the additional drag of the chrono module to contend with and has some other screwy habits too like lagging when you hack to set.
 
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This is my experience with almost all mechanical watches of any brand or price range. You need to kick start the pallet fork with a gentle tap or knock. On some watches it starts easier than others (almost no perceived tap needed). I agree with the omega rep, this is normal.

In regards to the previous post, I’ve used my reduced speedy on many occasions to time applications and still kept +2 seconds a day after a hard days use. I never heard about or experienced “lag” when hack to set. The 2892 base movement is very reliable and accurate for me. It’s only when the reduced is nearing its service interval that the amplitude will begin to drop say under 240 , that’s when to take it in, you want a healthy amplitude for proper and accurate chrome functions, but that is also the case with every other mechanical chrono.
 
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This is my experience with almost all mechanical watches of any brand or price range. You need to kick start the pallet fork with a gentle tap or knock. On some watches it starts easier than others (almost no perceived tap needed). I agree with the omega rep, this is normal.

In regards to the previous post, I’ve used my reduced speedy on many occasions to time applications and still kept +2 seconds a day after a hard days use. I never heard about or experienced “lag” when hack to set. The 2892 base movement is very reliable and accurate for me. It’s only when the reduced is nearing its service interval that the amplitude will begin to drop say under 240 , that’s when to take it in, you want a healthy amplitude for proper and accurate chrome functions, but that is also the case with every other mechanical chrono.

It is not a function of health or otherwise and I'm not suggesting anything about accuracy. Sometimes when you hack a modular chrono watch to set the time accurately (I am not talking about timing anything, I mean stopping the second hand), it will end up a minute behind because of the nature of the interface between timekeeping and chronometer modules. I've seen it on 2 healthy DD module chronographs, the work around is to set an extra minute fast when you hack. It isn't a flaw, its a quirk. By the way, in my experience the amplitude is lower on DD Module watches than integrated chronographs or that you'd expect from the the base 2892 but that doesn't mean they necessarily need servicing more regularly.
Edited:
 
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Thanks for all the feedback and thoughts! I really appreciate it

Funny I never thought about this "You need to kick start the pallet fork with a gentle tap or knock. On some watches it starts easier than others (almost no perceived tap needed)"

Have always thought that just manually winding any automatic movement will get it going after 20 or so winds of the crown
 
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Have always thought that just manually winding any automatic movement will get it going after 20 or so winds of the crown

It should.
 
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It should.
Thanks Archer! Appreciate the response. Any thoughts on why this might be happening from a watchmakers point of view? I'm gonna take it back again and hopefully I can relay your thoughts?
 
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Thanks Archer! Appreciate the response. Any thoughts on why this might be happening from a watchmakers point of view? I'm gonna take it back again and hopefully I can relay your thoughts?

Escapement could be a bit dry or dirty - that would be my first check. Then there are checks on the escapement that need to be done (should be routine) checking the various interactions between the escape wheel teeth and the pallet jewels. These usually aren't a problem on modern movements, but if someone has played around with the depth of a pallet jewel or something, it may be an issue here.

The base movement isn't one that I would say is known for being a poor self starter, so this should be something that is solved by any competent watchmaker.
 
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Escapement could be a bit dry or dirty - that would be my first check. Then there are checks on the escapement that need to be done (should be routine) checking the various interactions between the escape wheel teeth and the pallet jewels. These usually aren't a problem on modern movements, but if someone has played around with the depth of a pallet jewel or something, it may be an issue here.

The base movement isn't one that I would say is known for being a poor self starter, so this should be something that is solved by any competent watchmaker.

Thank you! I'll relay this info