Omega Speedmaster 321 Ed White vs 3861 Speedy Pro

bsowers34

Not really, it has a micro adjustment like the professional bracelets.

njlam

Is it possible to put this micro adjustable clasp on the 321?

chnzwh

The Ed White is a watch you really need to feel in the metal to decide. Given its price tag, the watch doesn't make much sense on paper unless you care a lot about the 321 movement (whether for mechanical reason or the moon landing historical association), at least that was the case for me personally.

The standard moonwatch wears a bit better with it's slightly shorter lug-to-lug distance, thinner case and the additional crown guard actually makes it more balanced on the wrist. The Ed White wears taller, the movement is technically inferior to the 3861 and I personally prefer the Nixon bracelet with smaller links and on-the-fly adjustment clasp on the 3861 moonwatch.

However once I've tried on the 321 Ed White, all the above went out of the window. The Ed White is finished to a noticeably higher standard than the 3861/1861 moonwatch. The fit and finish of the case is top notch, the galvanized dial is sharp and clean, the long indices with slight patina shade superluminova is executed to the goldilock spot between vintage and modern, the lume works better in the dark. I had doubts about the ceramic bezel at first but the rich and crisp feel of the enamal lettering matches the high end finishing of the case very well. I put a FOIS bracelet on the watch so it has quick adjustment mechanism that comes in handy during summer.

The movement looks great mechanically, the finishing is good but not stunning (coming from JLC and Lange). The accuracy is so-so but the tactile feel of the pushers is definitely elevated from the 3861 and right up there with the top players. This is by no means a knock on 3861 as I think 3861 probably has the best pusher feel among cam chrono watches (even better than some column wheel chronos from major brands).

I seldomly wear my black 3861 Hesalite anymore after acquiring the 321, and the Ed White is now in a happy rotation with a white 3861. The 321 is like a sleeper watch, like a RS4/RS6 in the car world, it doesn't scream for attention but those in the know will know. If you want the ultmate modern Speedmaster in steel, this is it. Aside from accuracy, it does everything a modern 3861 speedmaster does, only better and more refined in every little detail. That said, I don't think owning both is redundant, the black 3861 retains more toolish vibe and can handle more beatings technically, which makes it a great life companion that carries the true spirit of a Speedmaster since 1957.


The doctor says OMEGA-3 is good for my health

B Bonk

Old thread resurrected so I’ll chime in. I recently got to examine my friend’s 321 and it’s a fantastic piece. Someday I might try and buy one. However, as much as I like the Ed White I wouldn’t even consider trading/selling my 3861 to do it.

T TradeWinds577

Why wouldn’t you sell your 3861 for it? They’re both black and fairly similar. You could always do a white lacquered 3861.

T TradeWinds577

Great write-up. One year later, I have a few questions:
(1) Love your omega collection, is that all of it or do you have other watches too?
(2) In the picture the 3861 looks much darker than the 321, is that the case in real life or just an angle of the picture since the 321 is further away?
(3) Great description, few people notice the 321 has longer indices than the 3861.
(4) I assume the 321 is easier to wind and pull out the crown over the 3861 since it doesn't have crown guards
(5) You mentioned the Ed White were taller, this is my biggest hesitation with the watch. I'm afraid it'll snag on my long sleeve dress shirt or OCBD. My watches are 12.5mm and 11mm, so these are much thicker.

Sorry for all the questions!

chnzwh

1. For my Omega collection that's all, I'm only interested in Speedmasters in their lineup

2. It could be a bit of both, to my naked eyes the dial of 3861 Hesalite is more of a true black

3. To me the long indices streamline the EW's dial and make it less busy, despite having more minute tracks

4. Yes it is easier to wind due to the lack of crown guard and the movement itself. 3861 isn't hard to wind either, in fact it is noticeably easier to wind comparing to 1861 due to the slightly more protruded crown

5. For fitting under the cuff, it wouldn't make much of a difference between EW and 3861, they are both chronographs with 13mm+ thickness. By "wearing taller", it's more about the feel of wearing these watches rather than just numbers on spec sheet. The EW is slightly thicker to begin with, plus it lacks the crown guard which actually makes its proportion less balanced and therefore feels slightly taller, but definitely not like a hockey puck (like some IWCs and Panerai). IMO both wear well, but the 3861 is simply a more refined design that wears slightly better.