I have a watch, was a relative's watch.

I have searched, googled, and even taken to a few local places to try and figure out what it is, if it is even genuine Omega. I took it to an Omega dealer, they said they would have to send it to Omega to figure out what it is. Went to a high end jeweler, all they did was look up Omega watches in a book of watches.

No one can tell me what model it is and its value.

I cannot find any example matches with everything on the face - date, crosshairs, seamaster, De Ville,etc.

Can anyone tell me what model this is? It needs to be adjusted, does not keep time, what does it generally cost to have one adjusted and set properly?

Lastly, what kind of value does this watch have?

Thanks in advance for any constructive input.

 

Hello,

It's generally considered bad form to turn up and ask for a value... Withe the model number, this is something you can search through eBay sold listings for.

If you can get a watchmaker to open the watch you'll get the model number from inside the case back, and a calibre number from the movement.

From those two pieces of information, you'll be able to find a value, and a service cost.

Without those two pieces of information, anything we say is conjecture...

 

I would also recommend having this moved to the vintage Omega board so you can get information, after you have done your own research.

 

I have done my own research. And even taken to a high end jeweler and Omega dealer as stated in my original post.

That is why I came here.

Not sure what this forum is for if I cannot ask questions about an Omega watch, in an Omega forum.

 

This looks like a stainless steel watch and is worth about $500, more or less.

There are many models similar to this watch. Opening to take pictures and identify it requires experience or familiarity with this kind of watch. Those big shops have high overhead and cumbersome bureaucracy so they don't want to waste their time for little or nothing. Just look for some independent watchmaker who is at least familiar with opening a watch from the front. It's simple but requires skills and care to avoid scratching and ruining the watch.

The watch appears to have the original or older crown which may have a degraded seal and an oxidized stem. In that case, pulling it out in order to remove the movement may break the rusted stem. Since it doesn't run well, there're worn out parts inside and it needs to be serviced with the damaged and worn out parts replaced - cost around $100-200 plus parts at an independent watchmaker.

Everything else outside is in good shape, so just replace the old bracelet with a nice set of leather strap and enjoy it.

 

Well, I can't tell you much about value, but it's a pretty popular model, the Seamaster De Ville, and the condition looks to be fantastic. Of course, the movement could be toast, which is why pictures of it (and of the back, where the reference number is found) would be great. If put on an auction, it would easily sell - just make sure to take decent photos!

If you want to keep the watch, it needs to be taken to a good watchmaker (not the Omega store, not a jeweler's). The price is what TNTwatch advises.

Have to ask - was it an uncle's watch?

 

As I said, if you can get a watchmaker to open the back and give you the case number, the movement number, and the movement serial you'll have everything you need to get a value, and to google exactly which watch you have.

We're not able to offer accurate help with just pictures of the outside - in the same way that from seeing the outside of a house, you couldn't tell what colour bathroom it had, or whether there was carpet on the floors.

We're happy to help, but you need to do your part too.

 

Dear @liesnerj

You said nobody could tell you what that is ? Try searching for some Indian rickshaw "Auto" drivers in the city of Chennai (Madras) & ask them. Do Not underestimate these breed of men, some armed with PhDs & Masters holders who will astound you !

I thought i'll put on my Sherlock Holmes Thinking Cap and figure out A black Deville Gold plated casing with gilt writings. The white more Silverish looking are Rare.White or Silver with Crosshairs are even Rarer.
I believe 99% of timepieces of the Black Devilles crosshairs are redialled meaning someone added the crosshairs ! What's the going price now for the Black DeVilles one may ask ?

...Oooppss.. can i say it online ?.. Or the Moderator is going to Ban Me ???

Sir , Have you identified the watch ?
Has anyone else in the forum manage to decipher its Mystery ?

Okeeyyyy.... That's A SuperDuper Haley Comet Rare Omega Seamaster DeVille Silver dialled Crosshair datum
( That's date in German by the way )

These SM Devilles manufactured during the Beatles era ( circa 1967 ) are some of the finest & greatest movements ever made by Omega !!! Please Do NOT attempt what i'm about to say. If the crown is pulled in & out ever so gently & the date changes then the movement is a calibre 565. If the date remains static it's a calibre 562


Optical iilusions can play havoc on ones eyes , but can you see any Omega logo stamped on the crystal.. ??
If you can't that's ok because those are are incredibly difficult to produce but Omega did a wonderful job creating those signature crystals ..like a handful..

Is that a Primitive Cyclops or some 1960s magnifying Date thinghy ?
The Omega crystal looks Real so is that beat up oxidized crown.

I wouldnt mind be proven wrong by the Horological Afficionados !
I just wish there were more Katnis Everdeen (s) in the forum !

Stainless Casing with silver markings or writings means the dial has not be redone or tempered with .Redone silver dials have writings in white ! Silver is Good

Once fully restored, try finding a serious Vintage collector who's willing to pay between US 900-1500.xx
Not A Penny More Not A Penny Less.
That's the 1st novel written by my favourite author Jeffery Archer

Is your Omega SM DeVille Silver Dial Crosshair Datum A Genuine or A Fake ?
So far the Greek Gods are smiling at you.....

 

Show me how to "open the back"?



I don't know much about vintage Omegas but I strongly suspect that this "opening" you speak of will require a special tool to compress and remove the crystal from the watch. The movement can then be rotated slightly (after popping the crown and stem) and removed from the case, thus revealing the all telling numbers.

It MUST be done by a watchmaker equiped with the correct tools. No Omega Bowteek, no AD, no mall key man!

Because these were hard to open for the average Edward Scissor Hands the dial and movements are usually in much better condition than their screw back/snap back cousins.

My only advice at the moment is:

Get that flexi bracelet off the watch to prevent any further damage to those fine lugs.
Find a recommended watchmaker to identify and service the watch.
Tell the watchmaker NOT to use a horrible Cyclops crystal (my preference, I hate them)

It looks to be a fine watch and needs slow and careful steps to retain it's condition and value.

Cheers

Jim

 

*looks at picture* - bollocks.

To the OP, please do as Jim suggests... for all our sakes don't try to open the watch.

 

"bollocks!"

I just love that expression, so properly English.

 

I use it often. Normally upon realisation that I've done something stupid.

 

I see, I 'spose it's a bit like the Aussie "Ah fuc#!"

 

It's actually impossible to remove just the crystal alone on the Deville one piece cases. The OEM crystal has a notch for the bezel to hold and press it again the case to seal it. It can simply be opened with a case knife to pop off the bezel and the crystal will come out with it. Then in some cases you can rotate the movement to remove it, some other cases you'd have to rotate the locking ring around the rim of the case then lift the movement right off. The split crown has to come out first of course.

Omega really don't make it easy for you, do they!

 

This Is NOT Your Watch but an Original Vintage Omega Seamaster DeVille Silver Dial Crosshair Datum Ref 166020 circa 1964. I just wanted to you to appreciate the original. My concerns are the word automatic is not written below your applied Omega symbol , the baton markers are different , the original batons are thicker & have grooves. The length of the second Hand in your Omega watch is exaggerated & the applied lume on the minute & hour hands are rather generous

 

Dibs?

 

iirc "DeVille"='63+

 

Good point that the original poster's watch is missing the word Automatic. The hands however look correct although possibly relumed. Dials with onyx inserts are paired with hands with black inserts. Dials with lume are paired with lumed hands.

 

am i the only one who finds the mentioned $900-1500 overly optimistic?
my beer-gut says $500ish